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I imagine more tabs in these locations would be needed so you can secure the liner.

Yeah, I understand the concept and thought same. But after looking at the actual car, the path from the engine bay to the slats behind the fender liner is so restrictive that you’d need ALOT of negative pressure to effectively pull heat. But then again, I’m just a guy on the internet who doesn’t...

I initially also thought those may be ventilation slats for the engine bay. But looking at my car and going through old pictures I don’t really see how much can flow out of there. The slats sit right up against the fender liner. Only the inside corner of them is open to behind the liner. And if...

What’s the difference between these 2 sliders @Steve Tillett? Different models or is one a revised version? @jp129 if you get them would you let me try them out? Steve mentioned here the seats could lifted a bit if needed and the pads could be made slightly thicker to accommodate human...

🙋🏽‍♂️

They sure were quick to come in the forums to advertise though. Why would they not want to chime in and explain their logic? Basically all they are saying is “it’s ok, trust us” but show nothing to back that up.

How is that possible? They are in agreement that front brake torque is increased by the use of larger rotors. The rear rotors are not oversized so rear brake torque is unchanged from OEM. That effectively moves bias towards the front. Maybe Porsche realized that specific platform could benefit...

How did yours fail though? Under what conditions

I’d say so, yes. You’d just have less visibility and would have to access the rear most tray bolts some other way. Honestly removing the top panels is super easy, takes 10s. I’d do it either wavy

Thanks! If you don't remove the top you wont be able to lift the shifter assembly enough to slide the new tray in because the cables hit the lower part of the boot delete shroud. It's really easy to remove that trim piece though, it's held by just clips.

are you referencing this? If so, no. That is just the normal mesh panel. If you don't select that option you'll get solid panels

The tray is raised and doesn't sit flush against the chassis so it's hard to measure that way. It is also difficult to insert the tray if the spacer is attached to the shifter, there isn't enough clearance. I measured the location of the front left shifter spacer rivnut in relation to the...

Sorry, yeah. Your dealer can order it for you. Also Bell and Colvill has an online store if you don’t mind paying for international shipping. http://parts.bellandcolvill.co.uk/?i=1340806&MAK=1&MDL=44&TBL=13263&SMA=0&SMO=0&ST=889073113511b&SC=0&PBID=1734573 Ah man, I have a template for the...

Part number is 889073113511B. No, you have to cut an opening in the tray and the rubber liner in the shape of the black spacer the shifter sits on top of. You also have to cut a slit at the back of the tray so the shifter “arm” fits through it. The automatic tray uses the same 3 bolts up...

Got a center console bottom tray from an automatic and modified it so the shifter assembly fits through it. I also replaced the bolts with SS hex ones. I think now the entire floating console mod looks a bit more OEM

I have a set, txt me!

The JDM Gods demand you lower that bad boy next

It uses the same bracket as their existing blend mount for radar detectors. I have one for mine in the Emira. No point if it’s out of stock though :p Helmet mount would use double sided tape, not suction. I need to lower mine a little bit but here is what I did so you get an idea:

This wouldn’t get a view of the dash but it’s an option https://blendmount.com/gopro-1/ Or what about mounting it on the right side of your helmet?

You could prob use a brush or a paint pen and wouldn’t have to take the grill out. Just mask everything around carefully. I don’t think I’d do it though because the reflection would be a little distracting for me.

11/10 would recommend!

Thank you, thank you! Lots of really good entries so I’m flattered! @GRP maybe next time bud 🤪

For the Emira? Both front and rear calipers are 4 piston.

Will do! I’m still waiting on updates from CoolGear regarding compatibility with the new MagSafe chargers.

No issues here.

The plastic “clip” is just a housing for a metal u-clip that bites onto the tabs. If they are loose enough they come out when you pull. If not, you need to open them up a bit by prying against the metal clip inside of the housing.

This runs over android auto so it is possible the issues you are having with it may remain.

The loom has clips that are zip tied to it. Those clips slide onto tabs around the air box. You may have to pry those clips open a little because they are designed to push in and bit against the tabs.

Very easy. Just need fender liners removed. Rear bumper vents are held by tabs. Quarter panel ducts are held by tabs and 2 screws each.

ah I wasn’t aware it’s an i4. I also didn’t know i4s have different offsets in the rear. TIL.

I think I remember reading on another thread you went with 1/2in wider than OEM. If so, that would be why. If you add a little camber you could prob get them to tuck in a bit.

Wait a minute. If you win EPOTM does that mean I win?! 🤪

Nice meeting you man. Hopefully your full sized one gets here very soon!