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Emira body panels

LotusAmateur

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Hi all,

I know that the Emira body panels are made of composites. I have never owned a car with composite panels before, usually aluminium or steel. But, seems that Lotus have a lot of experience with composites in other models. So a lot of other forum members are veterans at it.

From an ownership perspective, what do I need to keep in mind for composites vs aluminium/ steel? Any specific considerations? I will do a front and side PPF and ceramic all around.

Sorry if this was asked before but I could not find it.

Thanks!
 
In the “door opening in the car park” scenario, composite will “give“ a bit more than metal, so will take more of an impact before it is permanent.
However, it’s not magic. Paint will scratch and the composite will crack/smash if the bang is hard enough.
But, it would have to be a really forceful door swing to crack it.
Metal will dent with a comparably small impact and the dent just gets bigger with more force.

In short, you have more chance of getting away with a bump, but only up to a certain point.

The Emira will be my 5th Lotus/Composite car, and the only damage I‘ve ever had (beyond paint chips) was when misjudging a car park entrance kerb and cracking the chin of an Elise.
KJD I have concerns about the front lip getting damaged if I misjudge the distance when pulling into a parking spot.
Would the front parking sensors be able to pick up a curb or cement parking block?
If not would one be able to use a backup camera mounted on the front bumper??
 
that makes me reconsider silver wheels on Seneca blue. Damn
P.rob, I'm currently torn between Seneca blue and Nimbus Gray, but I was going to go with the Silver v spoke wheels on both.
Not a fan of the diamond cut wheels.
 

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P.rob, I'm currently torn between Seneca blue and Nimbus Gray, but I was going to go with the Silver v spoke wheels on both.
Not a fan of the diamond cut wheels.
Same nimbus exterior as me but with black pack, but I’ve got red callipers. Silver wheels for me, wife has black 9n her mini and got diamond cuts on an M3… never again with diamond cut alloys.
 
Same nimbus exterior as me but with black pack, but I’ve got red callipers. Silver wheels for me, wife has black 9n her mini and got diamond cuts on an M3… never again with diamond cut alloys.
mine is also nimbus with black pack.
had chosen the black wheels all the way from the beginning, and changed for diamond cuts last week, after going through changing in the configurator 2.000 times.
Can I ask you if there is a reason I should worry about the diamond cuts that made you not choose them again, or is just for a change of look and I shouldn't worry.
thanks.

GO NIMBUS ! 😜
 
P.rob, I'm currently torn between Seneca blue and Nimbus Gray, but I was going to go with the Silver v spoke wheels on both.
Not a fan of the diamond cut wheels.
I was hesitant between black and silver. I don't like black wheels with machined faces.

I have black wheels on my GT4 and with agressive brake pads they always look dirty, but they complement the car well I think... Still got a few more weeks to decide
 
mine is also nimbus with black pack.
had chosen the black wheels all the way from the beginning, and changed for diamond cuts last week, after going through changing in the configurator 2.000 times.
Can I ask you if there is a reason I should worry about the diamond cuts that made you not choose them again, or is just for a change of look and I shouldn't worry.
thanks.

GO NIMBUS ! 😜
When you damage a diamond cut wheel it has to be recut, that’s when the problems start as after some months the laquer starts to bubble or milk. You can only recut them a few times. Much easier to manage “normal alloys”.
 
I think modern diamond cuts are less prone to this but yes they can only be refurbished a few times. They are a bit more fragile and if you break the surface it can result in the damage slowly spreading. With the DCWs on my Evora I only had one wheel that developed problems where there was no obvious damage (so probably a manufacturing issue) and that was over 5-6 years. After re-furbishing they have stayed immaculate for the last 2 years.

Worst case you can get them refurbished with a non DCW finish when they run out of capacity to be refurbished with the diamond cut.
 
I think modern diamond cuts are less prone to this but yes they can only be refurbished a few times. They are a bit more fragile and if you break the surface it can result in the damage slowly spreading. With the DCWs on my Evora I only had one wheel that developed problems where there was no obvious damage (so probably a manufacturing issue) and that was over 5-6 years. After re-furbishing they have stayed immaculate for the last 2 years.

Worst case you can get them refurbished with a non DCW finish when they run out of capacity to be refurbished with the diamond cut.

I had my 22" iPace diamond cut wheels redone in a semi gloss anthracite and they look great £60 a wheel.
ipace.jpg
 
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I think modern diamond cuts are less prone to this but yes they can only be refurbished a few times. They are a bit more fragile and if you break the surface it can result in the damage slowly spreading. With the DCWs on my Evora I only had one wheel that developed problems where there was no obvious damage (so probably a manufacturing issue) and that was over 5-6 years. After re-furbishing they have stayed immaculate for the last 2 years.

Worst case you can get them refurbished with a non DCW finish when they run out of capacity to be refurbished with the diamond cut.
Dogs just can’t resist having a wee on car tyres as I discovered to my cost as DCW’s mysteriously caught the wiggly worm bug!
 
Dogs just can’t resist having a wee on car tyres as I discovered to my cost as DCW’s mysteriously caught the wiggly worm bug!
One solution may be to ceramic coat the wheels to protect them using Gtechniq C5 Wheel Armour (or similar):
 
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Carbon isn't best known for impact strength but it's not that bad.

Here is a vid of hammer hitting a carbon bike frame.

 
To be fair he is hitting it pretty hard and the carbon lay up will be carefully tuned to be strong enough to withstand the forces encountered while riding the bike whilst shaving weight off everywhere else. So it will be directional and torque focussed. Hitting the middle of the top tube is a ‘weak spot’ for a lump hammer 😂.

I have done this with a fork steerer and it takes a very heavy hit before it breaks.

Not sure if there is any carbon in the FE? I am assuming cheaper materials in the body panels but don’t know what they are.
 

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