Emira Quirks

The waterproof foam seal is 2cm by 2cm. It isn’t 100% perfect but does seal muck from getting on the door jam but not dust (which is good enough for now). For it to be perfect it needs to be moulded to fit round the corner to completely seal it up and improve airflow through the air vent rather than the door jam.
I can 3D print you one (or two obviously) - would be an interesting project...
 
The waterproof foam seal is 2cm by 2cm. It isn’t 100% perfect but does seal muck from getting on the door jam but not dust (which is good enough for now). For it to be perfect it needs to be moulded to fit round the corner to completely seal it up and improve airflow through the air vent rather than the door jam.
If you seal off that area around the door jamb, would water be able to drain coming from above? I'm thinking rain water or washing the car.
 
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If you seal off that area around the door jamb, would water be able to drain coming from above? I'm think rain water or washing the car.
Good point, thank you. Will investigate with a hose pipe later.
 
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I can 3D print you one (or two obviously) - would be an interesting project...
Thanks for the offer. Can you 3D print rubber seals though? Sorry, I have no knowledge in this area.
 
Thanks for the offer. Can you 3D print rubber seals though? Sorry, I have no knowledge in this area.
Yes I can - I have an engineering company in Bolton - I foolishly have the philosophy that we can make anything...

There's always a way!

But yes - I can print in rubber. Just need to work out what to model up in SolidWorks...

You're not far away... Friday afternoons are good for me.
 
Thanks for the offer. Can you 3D print rubber seals though? Sorry, I have no knowledge in this area.
Are you interested in having a go at this @Wonza ?

I wasn't going to charge you anything - I'm just doing it because I can - and the fact I've got one on order means I'll have them ready for myself... (y)
 
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Are you interested in having a go at this @Wonza ?

I wasn't going to charge you anything - I'm just doing it because I can - and the fact I've got one on order means I'll have them ready for myself... (y)
Yes. I’m interested sorry been busy. I live down the road from Bolton. So I can pop by Fridays but need to be at work for 4:30pm. If you PM with your details, I’ll contact you.

I’ve got plenty of other ideas.

Thank you
 
Are you interested in having a go at this @Wonza ?

I wasn't going to charge you anything - I'm just doing it because I can - and the fact I've got one on order means I'll have them ready for myself... (y)
@meenboli, can you print me a red Emira with black leather interior, yellow calipers and i4 AMG engine 🚘. I'll gladly pay you for it with bitcoin ;)
 
@meenboli, can you print me a red Emira with black leather interior, yellow calipers and i4 AMG engine 🚘. I'll gladly pay you for it with bitcoin ;)

Anything for you sir - and as a special treat that'll be only £65k - original selling price 😂👍

emira.jpg
 
Yes. I’m interested sorry been busy. I live down the road from Bolton. So I can pop by Fridays but need to be at work for 4:30pm. If you PM with your details, I’ll contact you.

I’ve got plenty of other ideas.

Thank you

No probs - not pushing - just didn't know if you were interested.

I'll pm you 👍
 
Photos of the underside - pretty flat aluminum panels with a LOT of bolts. Hope they are not the corroding kind.
Take heed all whether a long term keeper or someone who wants to preserve some pain free ownership for the next custodian (to me a valuable asset when buying and selling).
The bolts might be ok for a short time but if there are any spire clips involved they will be seized by year 3.
There's a reason why most aftermarket parts suppliers do stainless under tray kits.
I'll be under mine with copper slip and a big can of ACF50
Salt will marmalise that car like it does every lotus to the point where replacing fastenings becomes a significant cost of other repairs.
Both my 111S and Exige were subject to a recall where the floor well panels were either treated with anti corrosion fluid, mats replaced and mat retension bobbins installed or a new floors glued over the originals due to the rubber mats sweating underneath. Salty shoes helping things along.
Elise onwards uses loads of rivnuts. Rivnuts work fine until the rusted bolt threads need more torque than the clamping force of the rivet can endure and the whole thing will spin. In my experience it will spin the rivnut rather than snapping the bolt/screw. Then its out with the drill.........

I have quick release ones on the Exige 'for when I need to check the catalytic converter is still there for the MOT'......
 
Take heed all whether a long term keeper or someone who wants to preserve some pain free ownership for the next custodian (to me a valuable asset when buying and selling).
The bolts might be ok for a short time but if there are any spire clips involved they will be seized by year 3.
There's a reason why most aftermarket parts suppliers do stainless under tray kits.
I'll be under mine with copper slip and a big can of ACF50
Salt will marmalise that car like it does every lotus to the point where replacing fastenings becomes a significant cost of other repairs.
Both my 111S and Exige were subject to a recall where the floor well panels were either treated with anti corrosion fluid, mats replaced and mat retension bobbins installed or a new floors glued over the originals due to the rubber mats sweating underneath. Salty shoes helping things along.
Elise onwards uses loads of rivnuts. Rivnuts work fine until the rusted bolt threads need more torque than the clamping force of the rivet can endure and the whole thing will spin. In my experience it will spin the rivnut rather than snapping the bolt/screw. Then its out with the drill.........

I have quick release ones on the Exige 'for when I need to check the catalytic converter is still there for the MOT'......
I’m definitely going to pay all those bolts some attention !
 
Take heed all whether a long term keeper or someone who wants to preserve some pain free ownership for the next custodian (to me a valuable asset when buying and selling).
The bolts might be ok for a short time but if there are any spire clips involved they will be seized by year 3.
There's a reason why most aftermarket parts suppliers do stainless under tray kits.
I'll be under mine with copper slip and a big can of ACF50
Salt will marmalise that car like it does every lotus to the point where replacing fastenings becomes a significant cost of other repairs.
Both my 111S and Exige were subject to a recall where the floor well panels were either treated with anti corrosion fluid, mats replaced and mat retension bobbins installed or a new floors glued over the originals due to the rubber mats sweating underneath. Salty shoes helping things along.
Elise onwards uses loads of rivnuts. Rivnuts work fine until the rusted bolt threads need more torque than the clamping force of the rivet can endure and the whole thing will spin. In my experience it will spin the rivnut rather than snapping the bolt/screw. Then its out with the drill.........

I have quick release ones on the Exige 'for when I need to check the catalytic converter is still there for the MOT'......
Since my car is likely to be arriving in either December or January, we'll be in full winter by then so I won't be driving it. After seeing those pictures of all the exposed bolt heads and washers underneath the car, I think I'll be putting my car up on a lift, and begin replacing all those steel bolts and washers with high corrosion resistant, high strength aircraft grade aluminum ones. In addition to saving me the headache of corrosion and rust on the steel fasteners, replacing that many should save a few pounds of weight too. It'll give me something to do during the couple of months or three that I won't be able to drive the car.

I'll weigh the aluminum ones I replace the factory steel ones with, then after removing the factory ones I'll weigh those to get a total weight savings number. I'm only going to replace one bolt and washer at a time, so nothing will move during the whole process. I know from having replaced 20 factory steel lug nuts with high strength aluminum racing ones, that the savings will add up.
 

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