GRP Short Shifter Install Notes and My thoughts

[RyanGphoto]

So working on my friends car again and installed the GRP short shifter this morning. A few notes and thoughts.. (thank you to all that added notes to the other thread they were very helpful) and to @kitkat for the install video.

The install was pretty straight forward after watching the video but a couple things to make it easier..

1. Def remove the hose(s) to allow more room
2. Shift into 1st gear to allow even more room
3. ABSOLUTELY Rachet down on the needle nose pliers to take out and put back the Cotter pin.. It does and WILL fly around if you drop it (I dropped it twice and took a bit the second time to find it with a extension magnet, not fun).
4. I DID NOT (thanks to advise from another member) pull the cotter pin prior to loosening the squash nut. I used two 10mm wrenches (the flare nut wrench on the nut is the way to go for sure).
5. After loosening the nut I then pulled the cotter pin and removed the round rubber bushing by just pulling straight up.
6. I had to dremel (again thanks to another member for the tip) a small bit of the GRP piece to get it to sit all the way down.. I originally thought the GRP logo was going to be upside down because it would NOT seat all the way down with the GRP logo facing right side up, but after watching the video multiple times and having remembered the note about dremeling off a piece of the GRP piece from another thread I finally got it to work.. It fit over the linkage with the GRP logo correctly facing normal (not upside down).
7. Reverse everything you did and all is well

Thoughts on the shifter:

1. I like the short throw (but I don't mind my stock shifting either)
2. Def takes more force with the short shifter than mine, but it's not a lot of force, just a tad more
3. It def feels like 1st gear is in the position of 2nd (lower then it used to be before the short shifter) and 3rd gear is in the position of 4th.. Meaning the shifter feels "lower".. The shift points are no longer HIGHER in the gate (if there was a shifter gate that is).. Hard to explain over writing.. So when driving I often had to look down at the console to see what gear I was in, where mine I know what gear I am in just by putting my hand on the shifter.... Hopefully this makes some semblance of sense..
4. 5th gear is hard to get into.. Shifting from 4th on my car it's up OVER then up again.. on my friends its just barely up, barely over, then up.. The shift from 2nd and 4th into neutral is super small.. Def would take some getting used to.
5. Over after driving it for a while I would think I would get used to it and it wouldn't be a big deal at all. I doubt I will do this to my car, but maybe..

Any questions feel free to ask.

Ryan G

 

[kitkat]

So working on my friends car again and installed the GRP short shifter this morning. A few notes and thoughts.. (thank you to all that added notes to the other thread they were very helpful) and to @kitkat for the install video.

The install was pretty straight forward after watching the video but a couple things to make it easier..

1. Def remove the hose(s) to allow more room
2. Shift into 1st gear to allow even more room
3. ABSOLUTELY Rachet down on the needle nose pliers to take out and put back the Cotter pin.. It does and WILL fly around if you drop it (I dropped it twice and took a bit the second time to find it with a extension magnet, not fun).
4. I DID NOT (thanks to advise from another member) pull the cotter pin prior to loosening the squash nut. I used two 10mm wrenches (the flare nut wrench on the nut is the way to go for sure).
5. After loosening the nut I then pulled the cotter pin and removed the round rubber bushing by just pulling straight up.
6. I had to dremel (again thanks to another member for the tip) a small bit of the GRP piece to get it to sit all the way down.. I originally thought the GRP logo was going to be upside down because it would NOT seat all the way down with the GRP logo facing right side up, but after watching the video multiple times and having remembered the note about dremeling off a piece of the GRP piece from another thread I finally got it to work.. It fit over the linkage with the GRP logo correctly facing normal (not upside down).
7. Reverse everything you did and all is well

Thoughts on the shifter:

1. I like the short throw (but I don't mind my stock shifting either)
2. Def takes more force with the short shifter than mine, but it's not a lot of force, just a tad more
3. It def feels like 1st gear is in the position of 2nd (lower then it used to be before the short shifter) and 3rd gear is in the position of 4th.. Meaning the shifter feels "lower".. The shift points are no longer HIGHER in the gate (if there was a shifter gate that is).. Hard to explain over writing.. So when driving I often had to look down at the console to see what gear I was in, where mine I know what gear I am in just by putting my hand on the shifter.... Hopefully this makes some semblance of sense..
4. 5th gear is hard to get into.. Shifting from 4th on my car it's up OVER then up again.. on my friends its just barely up, barely over, then up.. The shift from 2nd and 4th into neutral is super small.. Def would take some getting used to.
5. Over after driving it for a while I would think I would get used to it and it wouldn't be a big deal at all. I doubt I will do this to my car, but maybe..

Any questions feel free to ask.

Ryan G

If you feel like the shift positions are shifted closer towards the back you likely messed up the shift position reinstallation, you should also be keeping the gear in neutral while doing it and making sure not to shift the shifter position at the bell housing or the cable length.

I’m guessing your shifter lever is now angled backwards. It’s fine if you’re fine with it but your shifter should be centered where it was before if properly installed.

 

[Blackthought_]

Yep I moved my neutral position when i did the install too. Here is the before and after

After adjustment

 

[Jinba ittai]

If you feel like the shift positions are shifted closer towards the back you likely messed up the shift position reinstallation, you should also be keeping the gear in neutral while doing it and making sure not to shift the shifter position at the bell housing or the cable length.

I’m guessing your shifter lever is now angled backwards. It’s fine if you’re fine with it but your shifter should be centered where it was before if properly installed.

My neutral position definitely moved. I figured that was normal. So where do I need to make the adjustment? Is it the position of those two nuts that get snugged together?

 

[Blackthought_]

My neutral position definitely moved. I figured that was normal. So where do I need to make the adjustment? Is it the position of those two nuts that get snugged together?

Because mine sat too low, I had to unscrew the nut that is on the rod end, remove the bell housing and then move that rod forward and you will visually see the shifter moving (through the glass in the middle of the car). Once it’s in the right spot reconnect the housing making sure you don’t move the rod backward

 

[Jinba ittai]

Because mine sat too low, I had to unscrew the nut that is on the rod end, remove the bell housing and then move that rod forward and you will visually see the shifter moving (through the glass in the middle of the car). Once it’s in the right spot reconnect the housing making sure you don’t move the rod backward

OK. I’ll give that a shot. Thanks!

 

[kitkat]

Perfect instructions.

 

[RyanGphoto]

Because mine sat too low, I had to unscrew the nut that is on the rod end, remove the bell housing and then move that rod forward and you will visually see the shifter moving (through the glass in the middle of the car). Once it’s in the right spot reconnect the housing making sure you don’t move the rod backward

Does this affect anything other than the visual and the placement? Is it 'bad' to have it higher or lower than original?

I really don't feel like going thru this again with my friends car. Especially since he hasn't really said anything feels off.

 

[virtualmacho]

So, for anyone attempting the install, would this be a good way to ensure the rod hasn't moved? And don't forget to remove the tape (and paint?) when done.

 

[Blackthought_]

So, for anyone attempting the install, would this be a good way to ensure the rod hasn't moved? And don't forget to remove the tape (and paint?) when done.

View attachment 56292

Visually look at the stick shift through the glass! Or you can make a little mark w a marker/pencil

 

[Blackthought_]

Does this affect anything other than the visual and the placement? Is it 'bad' to have it higher or lower than original?

I really don't feel like going thru this again with my friends car. Especially since he hasn't really said anything feels off.

I mean when I started to play around with the gears I kept screwing up what gear I was in. Was not used to neutral being that far down so I figured something was off. Not sure if it has any mechanical disadvantages though. Maybe @kitkat does

 

[kitkat]

I mean when I started to play around with the gears I kept screwing up what gear I was in. Was not used to neutral being that far down so I figured something was off. Not sure if it has any mechanical disadvantages though. Maybe @kitkat does

I don’t think there are any mechanical issues outside of biomechanical ones. If i had my shifter too far back my elbow would collide with the armrest storage lid.

 

[Nova]

I don't see how it matters any what gear you are in or what position the shifter stalk is when you attach the short shift adapter to the bell crank. What affects the position of the shifter stalk is the combination of:

1. Distance between end of shifter cable housing to the shifter stalk attachment point. Closer = Shifter stalk more forward
2. Distance between end of shifter cable housing to the mounting position on the bell crank. Closer = Shifter stalk more forward
3. Overall length of the shifter cable. Longer = Shifter stalk more forward.

Just sliding the cable around in the housing doesn't change any of the above and can't possibly affect the neutral shifter stalk position. The shifter cable housing is securely affixed at both ends - this is necessary to ensure that the shifter actually works rather than just move the shifter cable housing around. That means the only way to adjust the shifter stalk position more forward is to unscrew the cable ends by a few turns.

I believe the reason the shifter stalk ends up being more rearward after the short shift kit install is because the neutral position of the bell crank is not perfectly orthogonal with the shifter cable; it's a slightly obtuse angle. So moving the shifter attachment point inward along the bell crank draws more shifter cable, and thus moves the shifter stalk back. To offset this, the shifter cable need to be lengthened slightly.

 

[Nova]

I mean when I started to play around with the gears I kept screwing up what gear I was in. Was not used to neutral being that far down so I figured something was off. Not sure if it has any mechanical disadvantages though. Maybe @kitkat does

Ideally, you want the neutral stalk position so that the shifter cable is at perfect right angle with it. This way, when you shift down or up, the cable ends up being slightly non-right angle in either direction. If the neutral position is already at some non-90 angle, say the shifter stalk is leaned back slightly, then you will feel more effort shifting down as the angle increases slightly, while shifting up will take slightly less effort as the angle moves towards 90 degrees where there is maximum mechanical leverage.

I think that's what I'm going to do, figure out a way to measure the angle between the shifter stalk and the cable. If it's at 90 degrees, I'll leave it. If it's off by more than 5 degrees, I'll adjust it.

 

[Jinba ittai]

the only way to adjust the shifter stalk position more forward is to unscrew the cable ends by a few turns.

That’s what I was thinking. Unless I’m not understanding something, how else are you getting more/less length in the line?

 

[virtualmacho]

My thought was that the length of the center of the eyelet to to end of the threaded part (where you lock it with the squish nut) is shorter than the OEM eyelet. I don't have them side by side to compare at this moment, but if true, you would need to make sure to thread the new eyelet onto the cable just right (maybe not thread it in all the way?).

Anyone have measurements of the OEM eyelet? The GRP one is around 30mm.

 

[Nova]

It's not just the length of the eyelet, right? It's also how far the cable threads in.

 

[virtualmacho]

It's not just the length of the eyelet, right? It's also how far the cable threads in.

Yes. It's the combined length from the eyelet center to the marking that I am going to put on the cable before removing anything.
It's starting to look like I should first attach the black part separately, and then thread the new eyelet onto the cable, and finally attach the eyelet to the black part. But I probably won't

 

[Nova]

Yes. It's the combined length from the eyelet center to the marking that I am going to put on the cable before removing anything.
It's starting to look like I should first attach the black part separately, and then thread the new eyelet onto the cable, and finally attach the eyelet to the black part. But I probably won't

You are asking for trouble. The stud that the GRP eyelet mounts to is fixed in place by the same nut that holds down the eyelet. So if you remove the eyelet, that stud may fall out? It's easy enough to kind of put the short shift adapter in place without installing the cotter pin, and take it off to unscrew it a few turns to adjust. I would just make a mental note of how many turns it takes from initial engagement to fully inserted and maybe not back off more than 40% of the turns so that there is plenty of thread remaining engaged.

Another adjustment point would be the shifter stalk attachment. You can maybe back off a few turns there. These few millimeters will add up and hopefully get to the right length to cure the shifter stalk ED.

 

[kitkat]

You are asking for trouble. The stud that the GRP eyelet mounts to is fixed in place by the same nut that holds down the eyelet. So if you remove the eyelet, that stud may fall out? It's easy enough to kind of put the short shift adapter in place without installing the cotter pin, and take it off to unscrew it a few turns to adjust. I would just make a mental note of how many turns it takes from initial engagement to fully inserted and maybe not back off more than 40% of the turns so that there is plenty of thread remaining engaged.

Another adjustment point would be the shifter stalk attachment. You can maybe back off a few turns there. These few millimeters will add up and hopefully get to the right length to cure the shifter stalk ED.

It’s just really cold okay?