I installed a miltek 3rd cat delete and had a perfect pipe fit. The way I did mine was to take out the entire muffler. Much easier IMHO if you do not have a lift. The only steps that needed to be added was releasing the left side sway bar from the lower control arm and the sway bar brackets. This let me slide the entire muffler assembly out to easily remove and reinstall the new 3rd cat pipe.
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Emira GRP Third Cat Delete Pipe and Milltek Active Valve Exhaust Control Install Video
- Thread starter Dragoon
- Start date
Go for it! The first time you do anything on a car is a pain! But it's worth it. I have never, ever, gotten my car back together after a DIY and thought, "man, a shop would have done a better job than me". Hubris? Maybe. However, when I get my car back together, I know it was done correctly, even if that meant an extra day on jack stands and 2 extra trips to Autozone! Ok, maybe 3 extra trips.Years ago I installed lowering springs myself on my Evo and it didn't go well.. Should be a 2-3 hour job as I followed instructions from forum but it took me a whole day and a half figuring out why everything went south. I'm hesitant to do any extensive DIY jobs on the car ever since.
Exactly! I spent the better part of 3 days installing a Moroso oil pan on my Evora GT because the dealer wanted $1300. Glad I did too because I learned some more about my car and I know everything was cleaned and torqued down to spec perfectly. And if anything goes wrong, I only have myself to blame and will likely know how to fix it myself.
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My first car was a 1991 Ford Taurus SHO. I got it in 2001. 220 HP from a DOHC 3.0 Yamaha V6 with dual length intake runners and a 5 speed manual transmission. Pretty stout for it's day.
Anyway, it had an electrical gremlin that 16 year-old-me didn't have the skill or patience to track down and actually fix. It had a bad habit of burning up batteries and wearing our alternators.
The first time I replaced the alternator took me 2 days, and 1,000s of swears. Eventually, I got to where I could swap it in 25 minutes flat in any parking lot, anytime, anywhere. It helped that AutoZone had a lifetime warranty on that part!
Moral of the story? It's good to know how to work on your own stuff if you want to, and it's easier to swap an alternator than to chase down a short. Maybe the 2 12' subs, 800W amp, and 1 Farad capacitor I had hooked up had something to do with it?
Anyway, it had an electrical gremlin that 16 year-old-me didn't have the skill or patience to track down and actually fix. It had a bad habit of burning up batteries and wearing our alternators.
The first time I replaced the alternator took me 2 days, and 1,000s of swears. Eventually, I got to where I could swap it in 25 minutes flat in any parking lot, anytime, anywhere. It helped that AutoZone had a lifetime warranty on that part!
Moral of the story? It's good to know how to work on your own stuff if you want to, and it's easier to swap an alternator than to chase down a short. Maybe the 2 12' subs, 800W amp, and 1 Farad capacitor I had hooked up had something to do with it?
- Thread starter
- #25
I miss my old stereo system days! I got a job while I was in college at a stereo shop just so I could afford to put a complete system in my car. I remember when I got one of the first Clarion head units with a flip-down face with a CD slot behind the screen and a wireless remote. I thought I was the coolest guy in town.
Why did I have 2 Rockford Fosgate 12s and all the other gear? My brother worked at BestBuy one summer and got anything in the store for cost + 5%, or something like that.I miss my old stereo system days! I got a job while I was in college at a stereo shop just so I could afford to put a complete system in my car. I remember when I got one of the first Clarion head units with a flip-down face with a CD slot behind the screen and a wireless remote. I thought I was the coolest guy in town.
You knew my system was bangin' hard because the headlights would dim when the bass hit at idle!
My brother didn't think I needed to spend money on "audio grade power cable" like a sucker, so we went to Home Depot and bought 15-20 feet of copper housing wire. 12v vs 120v? No problem! Copper wire is copper wire, amIright?
I noticed some smoke coming my engine bay. Pulled over, popped, the hood, and the copper battery terminal end we had crimped onto the housing wire was melted to the positive terminal of my car battery....
Thanks for the video and tips @Dragoon. Install went pretty quickly for us.. Minus a trip to Harbor Freight for a pipe expander.All good though.. Everything is buttoned up and sounding mean!
You ain't working on your car unless you make at least 1 unplanned trip to the store during install.
- Thread starter
- #29
I'm so glad the pipe expander wasn't a surprise! It's much easier to pivot to that solution when you know it might be an option you need beforehand.Thanks for the video and tips @Dragoon. Install went pretty quickly for us.. Minus a trip to Harbor Freight for a pipe expander.
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I can't help but think they're all like this and some shops just leave them loose or as tight as they can get em.
KCMO68_510
Emira Fiend
When I first read this comment, my brain switched "3rd" and "best" and I really thought that this was just a hysterical insult our of left field.
I still can't figure why the expander has been necessary in some cases. When I installed my GRP pipe, it fit snugly and went in by hand without even needing the assistance of a tool and it tightened very firmly with the clamp. I can only imagine that the manufacturer of the GRP pipe made them with slight diameter variations, or the Emiras' exhaust pipes are not consistent in diameter specs themselves. Very strange.
- Thread starter
- #33
I talked with GRP, and they said their pipes are set to a specific diameter. He seemed to think the muffler inlet pipe diameter is what fluctuates considerably between Emiras.
My car seems to be an early FE 1.0 build. Is your a FE 1.0 or 2.0?
- Thread starter
- #34
I have the same suspicion.
I'm not sure when the FE 1.0 vs 2.0 cut off was, but if the build date has anything to do with it, mine was built in November 2023.
- Thread starter
- #36
Well, that doesn't tell us much because mine was also built in November 2023.
Ok, but how then does one determine 1.0 vs 2.0 ? The only telling feature that I've found by researching the internet is that 2.0 FEs were offered with the additional colors, but mine is a MR which doesn't help since it was offered from the onset.
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- Thread starter
- #38
I think you can tell by your original sticker or MSRP price. The FE 2.0 got a big price bump. The original MSRP for an FE 1.0 was around $96k.
My original sticker label has a MSRP of $93, 900 and a Total Suggested Retail Price of $97,650, so presumably mine is also a 1.0. I guess the production version isn't the reason for the difference in exhaust pipe specs after all.
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I just installed onto my car (I got it beginning of Aug) and I had to get a tail pipe expander to get it to fit tight enough. I think I spent more time on that portion and putting it all back together then on anything else! (and trying to zip tie the miltek controller to the bumper...ended up using double-sided sticky tape...I hope holds up.
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