Adding a subwoofer

IF your sub can take all the frequencies and remove the higher frequencies, then as you have a single sub, you would need to give it both right and left channels. You can just take a feed from the right and left speakers, take them to the sub (4 cables) and then twist both right and left + together and right and left - together to make 2 cables and connect to the sub, this won’t affect the speakers upstream. I think you’re also saying that the signal from these speakers doesn’t cover the higher frequencies. This would be a surprise? If that’s the case then you could also take a feed from some of the mid/higher frequency speakers and connect in the same way.
 
Thanks for all the info from this thread and crestima's guide. Made my install very quick. I also installed the Kicker HS10 sub setup in the back similar to crestima.

I elected to power the sub by runnung the power wire to an unused power lug that was open on the left hand fuse box. This made things alot tidier in my opinion.

View attachment 60904
View attachment 60905

This provides 12V power from the battery and it's unused. I just found an m8 nut and secured the ring terminal there.
View attachment 60910

I mounted the sub lengthwise instead of right side up. I suspect orientation doesn't matter, but time will tell.

View attachment 60906

As most have said, the difference is night and day. The 10" Kicker sub provide way more bass than the rest of the system is balanced for, so it's a great configuration with the OEM speakers. I will also be adding tweeters in the A-pillars and re-assess the system, but I'm very happy with how things are progressing.
Any feedback from this forum on using that power lug in the fuse box? I’ve always been told to go directly to the battery, but this would make it super convenient and clean to install. Installing my sub next week, so any advice will be welcome. Of course any decision I make will be my own responsibility.

Thanks in advance…this has been the BEST forum for info.
 
Any feedback from this forum on using that power lug in the fuse box? I’ve always been told to go directly to the battery, but this would make it super convenient and clean to install. Installing my sub next week, so any advice will be welcome. Of course any decision I make will be my own responsibility.

Thanks in advance…this has been the BEST forum for info.
Hi,
I had originally connected mine with a dedicated connection through the firewall directly to the battery, but after @jp129 posted his picture revealing that additional (unused) power source under the fuse box, while I had the panels off for soundproofing, I decided to re-connect it to the fuse box source. It happens to be the same as a direct line to the battery except it’s much easier and cleaner. Just keep in mind that you may need to dremmel cut a little bit in the corner of the triangular plastic cover to allow the sub power connection to pass through ( I did) otherwise, you’ll have a hard time getting that triangular cover to go back on. Hope this helps.
 

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