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I really suggest trying it yourself, it’s really a 15 minute thing that anyone should be able to do. I’ll make a video of this on Saturday as a member from the forums is meeting up with me to adjust his car.This is great.. I am not handy, so doubt I will be doing this myself, but I will have it done for sure. My car takes a toll to get it into 1st gear and reverse. I ALWAYS have to go into 2nd to go into 1st at every light.. every time. I thought it was just an exotic car thing or a Lotus thing..
Thanks so much for this.
Ryan G
A video would really help.. and I guess I will try it after you post the video.. Thanks.. I have to go buy the tools you mentioned as well.I really suggest trying it yourself, it’s really a 15 minute thing that anyone should be able to do. I’ll make a video of this on Saturday as a member from the forums is meeting up with me to adjust his car.
@kitkat what is the counterpoint to this adjustment? Meaning, how do you know you've gone too far? or does the 5-6 gear get more muddled if you adjust too much for 1-2?
I haven't tried it yet, just trying to understand. thanks!
I had trouble lifting the front part of the trim up and out.
Can you explain where the clip is that you’re trying to unseat? I was lifting up in a few places and nothing was moving.
I'm having the same issue. Had to pull fairly hard for it to move. Heard 2 mean cracks and the tap came up a bit. Sits elevated almost half an inch now and nothing is moving anymore. Can't even push it back in.I had trouble lifting the front part of the trim up and out.
Can you explain where the clip is that you’re trying to unseat? I was lifting up in a few places and nothing was moving.
I'm having the same issue. Had to pull fairly hard for it to move. Heard 2 mean cracks and the tap came up a bit. Sits elevated almost half an inch now and nothing is moving anymore. Can't even push it back in.
Tried to keep pulling and running the trim tool around the aluminum/plastic like in the video. No movement, nothing. Only thing I'm getting is pressure marks on the leather around it. I hope those are going to even out again.
Thanks
Marc
Cracking job! Mine sometimes doesn't go into 1st but sometimes it does. I'll give this a try!Ever since I picked up my car I've found 1st and 2nd pretty difficult to get into, especially 1st, I'd often have to get into 2nd and then get into 1st making taking off from a stoplight embarrassingly annoying. This also makes downshifting from 3rd into 2nd difficult as well.
If this sounds familiar to you, it means that your reverse lockout plate adjustment is off from factory and you just need 15 minutes of your time to adjust it. Making the adjustment on mine has made a night and day difference.
Tools Needed
Parts Needed
- 2.5mm hex
- T20 torx
- Plastic trim tool
- An extra zip tie.
Remove Gear Knob
- Loosen the M5x16 grub screw from the front of the gear shift knob with a 2.5mm hex key.
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- Remove the spring and o-ring, play close attention to their orientation for later re-assembly. The o-ring fits into the shift knob recess.
Remove Engine Start Switch Panel Cover
- Remove the center console rubber pad.
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- With some gloves, pull up the front plastic gloss plastic tab under the rubber mat. This is the front of the panel cover, pull it straight up.
THIS PANEL IS SHARP
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- Use the trim tool to pry upwards starting from the front and working all the way back. Take care not to damage the aluminum finished plastic. Work your way left and right and backwards until the full panel can be lifted up.
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- Lift the panel up, you'll see it's still attached to the gear shift knob via a zip tie, roll the panel over to see access to the inside shifter area.
- Unclip the connector to the ignition switch.
- OPTIONAL: Clip off this zip tie to be able to completely lift the panel up and out of the car. You only need to do this if you can't access the adjustment bolt easily.
Make the Adjustment
View attachment 54280
- Look down into the shifter area and you'll see the T20 screw with the green arrow, you will need to slightly loosen this bolt a few turns in order to free up the plate to move up and down.
- The issue here is that the plate is located too far down to engage 1st, 2nd, or Reverse smoothly.
- Move the plate up by 2mm and tighten the T20 bolt back up. Moving the plate up increases the distance before the plate makes contact with the reverse lockout plate, moving it down reduces it.
- Test your adjustment.
- Repeat if necessary.
That's it, put everything back together in reverse of how you took it apart. You'll need to put a zip tie back on to keep the shift boot up if you clipped yours to make the adjustment.
Lots of brut force broke it loose on the left side. Finally.
Had to work my way around the rear to get to the right side which finally gave in too.
The Start/Stop button fell out in the process. Doesn't seem to be clipped in. I took of the wiring and had it in my hands.
Is that correct?
For what it’s worth, I noticed a dramatic improvement in my shifter after 3,000 miles. I now have 3,500 miles on the car and it is a joy to operate the manual transmission. Before 3,000 miles, it was quite difficult getting into 1st and 2nd and now it feels very natural and slick.
If this is a problem for you, take a look and you'll see that you're wearing down the reverse lockout adjuster against the reverse lockout plate. Mine had ground down metal smeared all over the lockout plate with a substantial wear pattern at 4,000 mi. You might find breaking it in naturally isn't the best approach to this, it was engineered to be adjustable.