Emira and Quick Jack

[saknibs]

I put mine on today too, even with a piston spreader I had to remove the backing cover on the EBC pads to make them fit.

Same here.

 

[Time2Fly]

Any reason for the EBC pads over the Brembo aside from dust?

 

[saknibs]

no, totally brake dust.

 

[SSJAR]

First off, thanks for all of the great info on this thread, especially @scc.131.fe for sharing pics of his quickjack setup.

I received my Emira Saturday so of course I would throw it on my quickjacks on Sunday to remove the wheels and can ceramic coat the brake calipers and wheels.

I have a set of BL-7000-EXT, I am thinking they were replaced by the 7000TLX which is almost identical in specs.

I used the small quickjacks blocks and placed one end under the factory rear jacking points and then was able to place the front under the frame rail up front, but it could not obviously reach the front jacking point and it would have been off center anyway. When you look underneath it is pretty obvious to tell where the frame is as opposed to just a plastic covering.

Curious if anyone has tried using the crossbeam adapter. I know @Time2Fly mentioned it but had not seen anything further. From my first look, the front jacking points sit just in front of the wheels so I am not sure if the crossbeam adapter would sit far enough forward to hit those front jack points.

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[Time2Fly]

@SSJAR my car hasn't been delivered yet. When it gets here it's going right up on the lift. I'll post pictures.

 

[SSJAR]

@SSJAR my car hasn't been delivered yet. When it gets here it's going right up on the lift. I'll post pictures.

That would be great, thanks!

 

[crestima]

Lots and lots of people buying $1500 quickjacks to do oil changes, seems a bit overkill.

I just put it up on jackstands with a single hydraulic jack faster than anyone here could probably even position their quickjacks let alone raise their car. Find a nice solid spot along the rails to lift one side, put 2 jackstands under the jackstand spots, switch to the other side and repeat.

This isn't rocket surgery.

View attachment 46339

Hi Kitkat,
I'm seriously considering going with this alternative. I just wanted to get an idea of how much ground clearance you can get on 4 jack stands. I've seen some that can reach up to 17"+, but I'm not sure if it's really feasible to reach that max in a safe way and without creating excessive stress on the frame when lifting. I noticed that in your picture the stands do not seem to be extended to their max. and I figure that you would want to go for as much working space as possible. Is that the case?

 

[kitkat]

Hi Kitkat,
I'm seriously considering going with this alternative. I just wanted to get an idea of how much ground clearance you can get on 4 jack stands. I've seen some that can reach up to 17"+, but I'm not sure if it's really feasible to reach that max in a safe way and without creating excessive stress on the frame when lifting. I noticed that in your picture the stands do not seem to be extended to their max. and I figure that you would want to go for as much working space as possible. Is that the case?

I've lifted them to 24" when working on the exhaust -- you just need a jack and jackstands that will lift that high.

 

[crestima]

I've lifted them to 24" when working on the exhaust -- you just need a jack and jackstands that will lift that high.

Thanks

 

[Time2Fly]

The 6000 elx needs to be toed in to not rub on the wheels. Only about an inch but still

 

[SSJAR]

The 6000 elx needs to be toed in to not rub on the wheels. Only about an inch but still

View attachment 49301

Congrats on the delivery @Time2Fly! Where you able to use the cross beam adapter or did you just use the rubber blocks on the frame rails?

 

[Time2Fly]

Congrats on the delivery @Time2Fly! Where you able to use the cross beam adapter or did you just use the rubber blocks on the frame rails?

I used the crossbeam adapter. To note, if you want to use this the crossbeam is pretty wide. It will impede access to the wheel well arch fasteners. Had to use just a bit held in hand to remove them.

 

[idleuser]

FYI,

I used the crossbeam adapter. To note, if you want to use this the crossbeam is pretty wide. It will impede access to the wheel well arch fasteners. Had to use just a bit held in hand to remove them.
View attachment 49317

FYI since Time2Fly is using the 6000ELX, the cross beam adapter won't work with the 5000/7000TL. Maximum lifting point spread is set at 66" for the 5000/7000 vs 76" for the 6000ELX.

 

[Eagle7]

I have the 5000 TLX and I used the tall rubber blocks. The small blocks don't reach high enough to clear the sides of the Quickjack. If you position the Quickjack so the back (the part with the label) lifts the rear lift point, then just let the whole unit run straight towards the front, and position a tall rubber block at the front so it lifts a spot on the angled frame rail (the part that angles from the outside of the car towards the front). There's no need to angle the Quickjack itself towards the front (unless I guess you have one that's longer than 66 inches).

 

[Sandalwood]

Lots and lots of people buying $1500 quickjacks to do oil changes, seems a bit overkill.

I just put it up on jackstands with a single hydraulic jack faster than anyone here could probably even position their quickjacks let alone raise their car. Find a nice solid spot along the rails to lift one side, put 2 jackstands under the jackstand spots, switch to the other side and repeat.

This isn't rocket surgery.

View attachment 46339

What stands are those? I'm using the old four-leg style with the U-shaped pad that are intended to hold a pinch rail. I'd prefer to have the puck style like these.

 

[kitkat]

What stands are those? I'm using the old four-leg style with the U-shaped pad that are intended to hold a pinch rail. I'd prefer to have the puck style like these.

These are ESCO -- lift right around 22 inches if i remember correctly.

 

[sirringo]

I have the 5000 TLX and I used the tall rubber blocks. The small blocks don't reach high enough to clear the sides of the Quickjack. If you position the Quickjack so the back (the part with the label) lifts the rear lift point, then just let the whole unit run straight towards the front, and position a tall rubber block at the front so it lifts a spot on the angled frame rail (the part that angles from the outside of the car towards the front). There's no need to angle the Quickjack itself towards the front (unless I guess you have one that's longer than 66 inches).

Glad the TLXs fit - I was concerned mine would be too long. Do you have to slide the frames as far back as possible to prevent the front of the frame contacting the front tyres as the car is lifted up and back? I have this issue with one of my other cars.

And for avoidance of doubt...we're all positive about the strength of the rail in the location you're describing?

 

[Eagle7]

Glad the TLXs fit - I was concerned mine would be too long. Do you have to slide the frames as far back as possible to prevent the front of the frame contacting the front tyres as the car is lifted up and back? I have this issue with one of my other cars.

And for avoidance of doubt...we're all positive about the strength of the rail in the location you're describing?

If you look on page 5 of this thread, you'll see the pictures I posted of the frame at the factory and you can see inside how much bracing and reinforcement there is. The electric trolleys they use in assembly to move the cars around, lift the car at the same point I described and used myself when lifting my car.

 

[fcajr]

These are ESCO -- lift right around 22 inches if i remember correctly.

Do you the jack next to the jack points, then place the stands on the jack points?

 

[kitkat]

Do you the jack next to the jack points, then place the stands on the jack points?

I jack the car up along the frame rails — they’re clearly visible under the car. Anywhere on the frame rail in between the two jack points will do.