saknibs
Well-known member
Same here.I put mine on today too, even with a piston spreader I had to remove the backing cover on the EBC pads to make them fit.
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Same here.I put mine on today too, even with a piston spreader I had to remove the backing cover on the EBC pads to make them fit.
Hi Kitkat,Lots and lots of people buying $1500 quickjacks to do oil changes, seems a bit overkill.
I just put it up on jackstands with a single hydraulic jack faster than anyone here could probably even position their quickjacks let alone raise their car. Find a nice solid spot along the rails to lift one side, put 2 jackstands under the jackstand spots, switch to the other side and repeat.
This isn't rocket surgery.
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I've lifted them to 24" when working on the exhaust -- you just need a jack and jackstands that will lift that high.Hi Kitkat,
I'm seriously considering going with this alternative. I just wanted to get an idea of how much ground clearance you can get on 4 jack stands. I've seen some that can reach up to 17"+, but I'm not sure if it's really feasible to reach that max in a safe way and without creating excessive stress on the frame when lifting. I noticed that in your picture the stands do not seem to be extended to their max. and I figure that you would want to go for as much working space as possible. Is that the case?
ThanksI've lifted them to 24" when working on the exhaust -- you just need a jack and jackstands that will lift that high.
Congrats on the delivery @Time2Fly! Where you able to use the cross beam adapter or did you just use the rubber blocks on the frame rails?The 6000 elx needs to be toed in to not rub on the wheels. Only about an inch but still
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I used the crossbeam adapter. To note, if you want to use this the crossbeam is pretty wide. It will impede access to the wheel well arch fasteners. Had to use just a bit held in hand to remove them.Congrats on the delivery @Time2Fly! Where you able to use the cross beam adapter or did you just use the rubber blocks on the frame rails?
FYI since Time2Fly is using the 6000ELX, the cross beam adapter won't work with the 5000/7000TL. Maximum lifting point spread is set at 66" for the 5000/7000 vs 76" for the 6000ELX.I used the crossbeam adapter. To note, if you want to use this the crossbeam is pretty wide. It will impede access to the wheel well arch fasteners. Had to use just a bit held in hand to remove them.
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What stands are those? I'm using the old four-leg style with the U-shaped pad that are intended to hold a pinch rail. I'd prefer to have the puck style like these.Lots and lots of people buying $1500 quickjacks to do oil changes, seems a bit overkill.
I just put it up on jackstands with a single hydraulic jack faster than anyone here could probably even position their quickjacks let alone raise their car. Find a nice solid spot along the rails to lift one side, put 2 jackstands under the jackstand spots, switch to the other side and repeat.
This isn't rocket surgery.
View attachment 46339
What stands are those? I'm using the old four-leg style with the U-shaped pad that are intended to hold a pinch rail. I'd prefer to have the puck style like these.
I have the 5000 TLX and I used the tall rubber blocks. The small blocks don't reach high enough to clear the sides of the Quickjack. If you position the Quickjack so the back (the part with the label) lifts the rear lift point, then just let the whole unit run straight towards the front, and position a tall rubber block at the front so it lifts a spot on the angled frame rail (the part that angles from the outside of the car towards the front). There's no need to angle the Quickjack itself towards the front (unless I guess you have one that's longer than 66 inches).
If you look on page 5 of this thread, you'll see the pictures I posted of the frame at the factory and you can see inside how much bracing and reinforcement there is. The electric trolleys they use in assembly to move the cars around, lift the car at the same point I described and used myself when lifting my car.Glad the TLXs fit - I was concerned mine would be too long. Do you have to slide the frames as far back as possible to prevent the front of the frame contacting the front tyres as the car is lifted up and back? I have this issue with one of my other cars.
And for avoidance of doubt...we're all positive about the strength of the rail in the location you're describing?
Do you the jack next to the jack points, then place the stands on the jack points?These are ESCO -- lift right around 22 inches if i remember correctly.
I jack the car up along the frame rails — they’re clearly visible under the car. Anywhere on the frame rail in between the two jack points will do.Do you the jack next to the jack points, then place the stands on the jack points?