Emira Issues - from final production cars

[Eagle7]

Random sanity check... above the rear parcel shelf do others also have a gap between the leather trim and the vertical rear window? In my car the whole upper part of the panel is about 1/2" off the glass and can be pushed/flexed freely.

I have the same thing, right behind the leather part. I wouldn't have even noticed it if you hadn't mentioned it. I could only feel it with my finger tips; couldn't see it.

 

[Porter]

How can it need new rotors? I've seen the pad fracturing, but what happened to the rotors?

When the pads seize to the rotor it ruins the rotor as well.

 

[freefall_junkie]

Just to update on my creaking issue mentioned above, this morning I applied silicone grease to the door seals (used Silverhook grease from Amazon). Just been for a lengthy drive and the noise appears to have vanished. Fantastic! The creak had been driving me nuts. I'll reserve final judgement until I have driven it a few more times as I know these noises can have a habit of returning and I could have sworn it was coming from the footwell rather than the door, but fingers crossed it is fixed

 

[Time2Fly]

Just to update on my creaking issue mentioned above, this morning I applied silicone grease to the door seals (used Silverhook grease from Amazon). Just been for a lengthy drive and the noise appears to have vanished. Fantastic! The creak had been driving me nuts. I'll reserve final judgement until I have driven it a few more times as I know these noises can have a habit of returning and I could have sworn it was coming from the footwell rather than the door, but fingers crossed it is fixed

Does it leave an oily edge on the window?

 

[Mitcheroo]

I was driving in heavy rain the other week and had water ingress while driving (see picture). The seals look ok, but taking back to dealer to see what they say.

 

[freefall_junkie]

Does it leave an oily edge on the window?

Slightly, yes, but far preferable to a creak. I think the trick is to use the silicone grease sparingly and work it into the seal.

 

[Eagle7]

Does it leave an oily edge on the window?

Honda Shin Etsu grease doesn't.

 

[Eagle7]

I was driving in heavy rain the other week and had water ingress while driving (see picture). The seals look ok, but taking back to dealer to see what they say.

Looks like it's coming in under the door. Might try some Honda Shin Etsu grease on the door seal, both the door itself and the door frame on the car. This stuff is pretty impressive. Fattens up the seal ever so slightly, as well as making it softer and more flexible. If you put it on both seals (door and frame), that should take care of it. You can get it from a Honda dealer parts department, or order it on Amazon.

A little goes a long way, so put a dab on your finger and work it into the seals in sections.

 

[Mitcheroo]

Looks like it's coming in under the door. Might try some Honda Shin Etsu grease on the door seal, both the door itself and the door frame on the car. This stuff is pretty impressive. Fattens up the seal ever so slightly, as well as making it softer and more flexible. If you put it on both seals (door and frame), that should take care of it. You can get it from a Honda dealer parts department, or order it on Amazon.

A little goes a long way, so put a dab on your finger and work it into the seals in sections.

Cheers for that Eagle7. Most useful.

 

[GetawayDriving]

Just finished a 1,000 miles ride home and the car is mostly perfect.

I have the clunk on full steering lock. I brought it back to Gator and inquired about it, and Owen in service was amazing. Immediately put the car on the lift and confirmed the clunk is the spring moving in its housing, lotus added a rubber boot to prevent this on newer cars, and my car actually already had it. But now the spring was catching on the rubber and slipping. Not a danger, just a noise. They lubed it up and it improved for a bit but clearly something to be lived with.

Infotainment freezes up on me every now and then. CarPlay will freeze, and while the vehicle UI doesn’t freeze, the home button doesn’t work. Basically all I can do is adjust climate. It stays this way until the car is turned off for 2-3 minutes. I assume a software update will fix this eventually.

I have the slight bumper misalignment but honestly I couldn’t care less. Perfect panels are not something I expect from Lotus. It’s within my expectation. I never would have noticed it if not for the forum.

Lastly, I need the rain fix. Miraculously I was able to avoid rain on the 1,000 mile journey home, despite being surrounded by it on all sides. There was one night in Athens Ohio where I left my hotel at midnight and drove to a municipal parking garage 1 mile away to avoid a heavy downpour. Stayed in the car until the rain passed, which made it a 3am morning. I put myself on the list at my local dealer to get the fix but I’m told no parts yet. I also don’t have total confidence that’s a permanent fix. That’s the biggest bummer, because it’s raining now and I’m avoiding driving it.

Overall though, it’s amazing.

 

[Eagle7]

Just finished a 1,000 miles ride home and the car is mostly perfect.

I have the clunk on full steering lock. I brought it back to Gator and inquired about it, and Owen in service was amazing. Immediately put the car on the lift and confirmed the clunk is the spring moving in its housing, lotus added a rubber boot to prevent this on newer cars, and my car actually already had it. But now the spring was catching on the rubber and slipping. Not a danger, just a noise. They lubed it up and it improved for a bit but clearly something to be lived with.

Infotainment freezes up on me every now and then. CarPlay will freeze, and while the vehicle UI doesn’t freeze, the home button doesn’t work. Basically all I can do is adjust climate. It stays this way until the car is turned off for 2-3 minutes. I assume a software update will fix this eventually.

I have the slight bumper misalignment but honestly I couldn’t care less. Perfect panels are not something I expect from Lotus. It’s within my expectation. I never would have noticed it if not for the forum.

Lastly, I need the rain fix. Miraculously I was able to avoid rain on the 1,000 mile journey home, despite being surrounded by it on all sides. There was one night in Athens Ohio where I left my hotel at midnight and drove to a municipal parking garage 1 mile away to avoid a heavy downpour. Stayed in the car until the rain passed, which made it a 3am morning. I put myself on the list at my local dealer to get the fix but I’m told no parts yet. I also don’t have total confidence that’s a permanent fix. That’s the biggest bummer, because it’s raining now and I’m avoiding driving it.

Overall though, it’s amazing.

I had that same CarPlay freeze the other night, but I think it might be the difference between wireless vs plugged in. Normally I've been using it with my phone plugged into the USB port in the back of the center console. The night it did that freeze thing, I just had my phone sitting in the cup holder without being plugged in.

I also noticed the music I was playing didn't sound very good which was surprising, as the KEF system so far has sounded better than I was expecting. I've listened to music (although not the particular album I was listening to wireless) before while the phone was plugged in, and it sounded fine. I'm going to try that same album tonight with phone plugged in and see if that makes a difference since I know Bluetooth doesn't have the same bandwidth directly plugged in does.

The car feels surprisingly 'complete' in a way I didn't expect. I've got just about 700 miles on mine, and I noticed around the 500 mile mark it started to smooth out, with the engine sound, shifting, and overall feel of the car feeling like it was starting to settle in. The performance seems to be gradually improving. It really picks up speed fast once you're in 3rd gear.

Lovin' it so far!

 

[netsinah]

On day 2 of ownership, I was showing off the car to my car-buff brother-in-law, so I opened the trunk for a look-see. I didn't slam it shut afterwards, so it didn't close all the way and the "yellow" on the rear of the car image in the dashboard, told me so. I first tried to press hard on the rear center of it, as suggested by my salesperson upon delivery. No go. I tried to open it again, using both the fob and interior switch. No go. Looking at this Forum, someone's solution was to press hard on the trunk, while pressing the fob key. Tried but no go. Then alternated between pushing down and lifting up...while pressing the fob. FINALLY, it opened. Then slammed it shut "to be sure" and it closed OK and the dashboard warning disappeared. Problem solved! (or so I thought)

Later same day (last night) and when parking at home, the yellow dashboard light reappeared, even though I'd not opened the trunk again. Checked and the trunk felt closed. Tried opening it again (fob and interior switch). No go. Tried alternating between pushing/pulling while using fob. No go.

THEN pried open the small interior panel behind the driver seat (left side of car), along the side wall. Fun task; it was very tight and hard to pull open on its right edge. Looked underneath for the "red pull loop" as shown in the booklet, for the manual trunk release. Couldn't see it, nor any other "loop". Asked my daughter to help, with her smaller hands and ability to reach in further and feel for the loop. She finally spotted it: it was BLACK and jammed against the right side (not in far) and one tug, easily opened the trunk.

Perhaps (?) I've got a defective latch? Everything working OK this morning.

The main point of this posting, is to let everyone know that it may not be a red loop (mine was black) and describe how I located mine, should that help others. Hopefully this won't be an issue for you.

 

[Racer X]

On day 2 of ownership, I was showing off the car to my car-buff brother-in-law, so I opened the trunk for a look-see. I didn't slam it shut afterwards, so it didn't close all the way and the "yellow" on the rear of the car image in the dashboard, told me so. I first tried to press hard on the rear center of it, as suggested by my salesperson upon delivery. No go. I tried to open it again, using both the fob and interior switch. No go. Looking at this Forum, someone's solution was to press hard on the trunk, while pressing the fob key. Tried but no go. Then alternated between pushing down and lifting up...while pressing the fob. FINALLY, it opened. Then slammed it shut "to be sure" and it closed OK and the dashboard warning disappeared. Problem solved! (or so I thought)

Later same day (last night) and when parking at home, the yellow dashboard light reappeared, even though I'd not opened the trunk again. Checked and the trunk felt closed. Tried opening it again (fob and interior switch). No go. Tried alternating between pushing/pulling while using fob. No go.

THEN pried open the small interior panel behind the driver seat (left side of car), along the side wall. Fun task; it was very tight and hard to pull open on its right edge. Looked underneath for the "red pull loop" as shown in the booklet, for the manual trunk release. Couldn't see it, nor any other "loop". Asked my daughter to help, with her smaller hands and ability to reach in further and feel for the loop. She finally spotted it: it was BLACK and jammed against the right side (not in far) and one tug, easily opened the trunk.

Perhaps (?) I've got a defective latch? Everything working OK this morning.

The main point of this posting, is to let everyone know that it may not be a red loop (mine was black) and describe how I located mine, should that help others. Hopefully this won't be an issue for you.

I’ve found the yellow trunk warning light a couple of times, but I hadn’t been in the trunk. Turns out (in my case) that the key fob buttons push so easily that I’d activated it inadvertently when sitting into the driver’s seat and the key was in my pocket. I’ve also accidentally unlocked my locked car the same way while at cars and coffees. I’ll have to find a way to carry my key so that I cannot accidentally depress the buttons.

 

[Blackthought_]

On day 2 of ownership, I was showing off the car to my car-buff brother-in-law, so I opened the trunk for a look-see. I didn't slam it shut afterwards, so it didn't close all the way and the "yellow" on the rear of the car image in the dashboard, told me so. I first tried to press hard on the rear center of it, as suggested by my salesperson upon delivery. No go. I tried to open it again, using both the fob and interior switch. No go. Looking at this Forum, someone's solution was to press hard on the trunk, while pressing the fob key. Tried but no go. Then alternated between pushing down and lifting up...while pressing the fob. FINALLY, it opened. Then slammed it shut "to be sure" and it closed OK and the dashboard warning disappeared. Problem solved! (or so I thought)

Later same day (last night) and when parking at home, the yellow dashboard light reappeared, even though I'd not opened the trunk again. Checked and the trunk felt closed. Tried opening it again (fob and interior switch). No go. Tried alternating between pushing/pulling while using fob. No go.

THEN pried open the small interior panel behind the driver seat (left side of car), along the side wall. Fun task; it was very tight and hard to pull open on its right edge. Looked underneath for the "red pull loop" as shown in the booklet, for the manual trunk release. Couldn't see it, nor any other "loop". Asked my daughter to help, with her smaller hands and ability to reach in further and feel for the loop. She finally spotted it: it was BLACK and jammed against the right side (not in far) and one tug, easily opened the trunk.

Perhaps (?) I've got a defective latch? Everything working OK this morning.

The main point of this posting, is to let everyone know that it may not be a red loop (mine was black) and describe how I located mine, should that help others. Hopefully this won't be an issue for you.

I’ve hard quite the problems with my latch as well (posted in another thread). No matter how hard or soft I close it, it would set off the yellow or red warning light. And, sometimes I would need to use force to open it since it would get stuck! It even got to the point the alarm would go off in the middle of the night because the car thought the trunk was open. Finally my dealer concluded it was a faulty latch and replaced it under warranty. Haven’t had an issue since. As long as you try different closing methods and the problem still persists, I’d give your dealer a shout

 

[Time2Fly]

...but I hadn’t been in the trunk.

Good thing you hadn't!


Also, I have to say, three to four weeks from ownership and you all are making me wish I hadn't placed a deposit.

 

[netsinah]

Good thing you hadn't!


Also, I have to say, three to four weeks from ownership and you all are making me wish I hadn't placed a deposit.

Don't think that! Like most, I'm very pleased with the Emira. It's totally different from (say) the C8 Corvette (my last 2 sport cars), since the Emira:

1. is more of a true sport car, in feel (so less "refined/luxurious" than the Corvette, with the Corvette having a quieter cabin and almost endless list of options)
2. corners better
3. feels the road better, even with the "tour" suspension I ordered
4. has a manual transmission, which puts me more in tune with the car and controlling what it does
5. looks 1000% better (which is icing on the "sport car cake")

Admittedly, #2-4 just expand on #1. It's a totally different vehicle/drive, which makes it all worthwhile IMHO. I identified the trunk problem to potentially help others, NOT to suggest my Emira purchase wasn't worth it or that I was unhappy with it. I am and suspect you will be too.

Note: the comments above are after just a few days of ownership. I suspect I'll like the car more after the break-in period...and (here's hoping) some track time!

 

[Citizen]

My only issue with the car is the fear of melt chassis during next 3 months

 

[Kimmax]

My only issue with the car is the fear of melt chassis during next 3 months

View attachment 45555

51 °C and still exactly at 90 °C Water
I never exceeded 90, regardless of an hour of stop and go in the sun, tricky, slow and curvy track day or pushing on the street. Are we sure the sensor is able to read above 90 °C at this point? hahaha
Glad at least this is working

 

[Eagle7]

My only issue with the car is the fear of melt chassis during next 3 months

View attachment 45555

Your engine temp is about right, but the outside temp!? I'd be worried about the sun bleaching the interior leather. You're definitely a candidate for a good anti-UV window tint, and some kind of anti-UV leather treatment. The road temps must be close to tire melting. Wow that's hot. I was in Las Vegas once when it was 121 F (49.44 C) and it hurt to step outside into the direct sun.

 

[Citizen]

Your engine temp is about right, but the outside temp!? I'd be worried about the sun bleaching the interior leather. You're definitely a candidate for a good anti-UV window tint, and some kind of anti-UV leather treatment. The road temps must be close to tire melting. Wow that's hot. I was in Las Vegas once when it was 121 F (49.44 C) and it hurt to step outside into the direct sun.

Habibi this is dubai , all is good

Car is not a baby born