Ill get a thread started tomorrow
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My valve controller (and cat bypass) should arrive today but I’ll only be back in Italy in ~3 weeks, so when you install it do take pictures please! Haha and congrats on the car!Hey guys!
Anybody knows how to install the Milltek active valve control system? I am picking up my Emira on Monday and want to put it straight on
Thanks!
Apart from costing twice as much for the same product, no there is no difference.I see Komo-tec has released a similar product. Anyone know what the differences between the two are (other than list price)? Perhaps length of harness, thickness of insulation, waterproof-ness, heat resistance, etc.?https://www.komo-tec.com/en/lotus-emira/v6/exhaust/1008/rc-exhaust-valve-control-emira-v6
Thanks. I shall make my decision based on the price and design of the remote control...Apart from costing twice as much for the same product, no there is no difference.
I’m currently working on my car and a quick observation I’ve noticed, there are 3 small holes in the exhaust which lead to the chalk (?) on the diffuser heat shield, I’m certain there is a reason but it is odd to me.Hi everyone,
I haven't seen any posts on where people have installed their Active Valve Control module. Where has everyone attached the control module?
I attached in to the inside of the rear bumper, passenger side corner. There was some unused brackets which i cabled tied to with car body adhesive tape. Ill see how it gets on in this position and relocate if necessary. My only concern is the loom has to go up and over the exhaust tailpipe, which shouldn't get too hot because its decorative and not attached to the exhaust. As a precautionary I wrapped it in foil heatshield. The whole install only took 45mins and that included cleaning the undertray which had leaves and gravel in it. I suspect this will have to come off once a year to clear out.
View attachment 31003View attachment 31004View attachment 31005
It was a bit of a faff getting the undertray/diffuser off but for anyone doing this themselves you only have to remove the outer bolts/screws. There is a horizontal reinforcement bar in the middle which does not require removal and can stay on the undertray/diffuser - illustrated below:
View attachment 31002
There are also two very small metal clips which tie the diffuser to the inner wheel arch (both sides) which could easily be missed.
View attachment 31001
I also found my sound deadening has already started to come away after 1800 miles so ill bring it up with Lotus Centre and see what they say.
View attachment 31006
I hope that was useful.
Thanks, Antony.
I think the holes are there to let condensation drain out of the exhaust. It does leave a bit of a mess inside the undertray.I’m currently working on my car and a quick observation I’ve noticed, there are 3 small holes in the exhaust which lead to the chalk (?) on the diffuser heat shield, I’m certain there is a reason but it is odd to me.
Sooo they DIY was kind of unsuccessful
I don’t know who installed that cat on my car but it’s like they used a ton of loctite, we were 2 people trying to remove that thing! My car only has 1950kms so idk why it was so difficult to remove (not my first DIY by any means, done downpipes, headers, catbacks, swaybars etc etc), at least I did install the remote control which I really like and was super easy to install (To anyone who wonders, 1 is fully open, 2 fully closed and 3 (little button) factory settings, and it does remember last setting). I will give it to a shop to figure that one out at some point.
Remember... "lefty loosey, righty tighty"Sooo they DIY was kind of unsuccessful
I don’t know who installed that cat on my car but it’s like they used a ton of loctite, we were 2 people trying to remove that thing! My car only has 1950kms so idk why it was so difficult to remove (not my first DIY by any means, done downpipes, headers, catbacks, swaybars etc etc), at least I did install the remote control which I really like and was super easy to install (To anyone who wonders, 1 is fully open, 2 fully closed and 3 (little button) factory settings, and it does remember last setting). I will give it to a shop to figure that one out at some point.
These rules don't apply to a sufficiently long breaker bar, an angle grinder, or a blow torch.Remember... "lefty loosey, righty tighty"
I was definitely on the fence on using an angle grinder not gonna lieThese rules don't apply to a sufficiently long breaker bar, an angle grinder, or a blow torch.
Not necessarily, in tour it’s fully closed, as in almost all cars when it’s fully closed all the air passes through a smaller pipe to minimize sound but when you go past X rpm it fully opens so staying fully closed at full revs for a long time probably isn’t the best idea but idk about dangerousWouldn't that be kind of dangerous? My previous experience with this type of mod is either fully open or OEM-passthrough.
Doing it DIY by yourself is nigh-on impossible.Sooo they DIY was kind of unsuccessful
I don’t know who installed that cat on my car but it’s like they used a ton of loctite, we were 2 people trying to remove that thing! My car only has 1950kms so idk why it was so difficult to remove (not my first DIY by any means, done downpipes, headers, catbacks, swaybars etc etc), at least I did install the remote control which I really like and was super easy to install (To anyone who wonders, 1 is fully open, 2 fully closed and 3 (little button) factory settings, and it does remember last setting). I will give it to a shop to figure that one out at some point.
100% agree, I also think one would be able to remove the swaybar completely which will let you remove the muffler + cat, I didn’t have enough room with the jackstands and so I didn’t want to remove it risking not being able to put everything back together so I gave up.Doing it DIY by yourself is nigh-on impossible.
If you have a lift and an extra pair of hands I think it’s do-able but a pita.
One needs to unbolt the silencer and hold it to the rear while the other wriggles the cat forwards to separate it from the silencer. There is very little wriggle room. And the heatshields will take a battering.
You can’t drop the whole assembly as one because the exhaust outlets sit in the finishers and you can’t get it far enough forward to clear them.
I thought about taking off the arb, but the subframe crossmember is still in the way.
After a lot of swearing, giving up, head-scratching, more swearing, giving up again, I ended up with this:
View attachment 31569View attachment 31570
Not as scary as it might look.
Wheel arches out, brake light off, 4 bolts in the boot, undo connectors, and it lifts right off.
Then the whole silencer/cat assembly comes out easily to separate off the car.
From videos I think I’ve seen of the factory, the bumper goes on after the exhaust so it’s only a problem afterwards.
This is how I got it done on my own but ymmv.