Emira Standard Wheel Alignment Settings?

Anyone with any more info on the alignment settings? The ones listed above seem quite conservative compared to what I'm used to on the road, around -2.25 camber. I'd love to know how close these compare to standard Evora settings since people may have had more time to experiment on this car.
 
Anyone with any more info on the alignment settings? The ones listed above seem quite conservative compared to what I'm used to on the road, around -2.25 camber. I'd love to know how close these compare to standard Evora settings since people may have had more time to experiment on this car.
Evora settings were extremely similar.

This car is setup as a road car, which means a balance of performance and tire wear. Double wishbone vehicles in general don’t always have a ton of camber however, you get an increase in camber throughout the suspension jounce travel. And you can increase the camber with more aggressive caster. These things combined should allow you to have decent dynamic camber when you need it without the increased tire wear when driving on the street.
 
So, slight update, not sure how helpful it is as it is only partial info... Did a factory tour today and we were told that the cars are set up with 0.8 neg camber front and 1.8 neg camber rear (to help bias towards understeer rather than oversteer on the limit apparently).

I did ask about whether there were differences between different chassis/tyre set ups, but our tour guide did not know.
Did you observe i4 AMG M139 engine cars being built, and such cars being stored for shipment? The other issue is to discern I4s for China, and for the rest of the world. Of course you will also have RHD vs LHD depending on markets. Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia etc will be RHD. The first non-China i4 has now arrived and is registered for road use in Australia. Lotus does not give out any information on progress, so receiving some info from participants in “Factory Tours” has become crucial to get any “progress report”.

Obviously there is also the issue whether the problems of delays in shift action on the DCT gearbox has been fixed (sorted) or not? Lotus is completely “mum” on this subject.

Thanks for divulging anything you may have observed or heard.
 
this was given to me by a contact in the EU. Use at your own risk:)

Emira Alignment Specifications for Sport Alignment:

Front Camber: -0.9 to -0.7 degrees

Front Caster: 4.90 to 5.10 degrees

Front Toe: -0.01 to +0.03 degrees

Rear Camber: -1.9 to -1.7 degrees

Rear Toe: 0.18 to 0.22 degrees
 
Evora settings were extremely similar.

This car is setup as a road car, which means a balance of performance and tire wear. Double wishbone vehicles in general don’t always have a ton of camber however, you get an increase in camber throughout the suspension jounce travel. And you can increase the camber with more aggressive caster. These things combined should allow you to have decent dynamic camber when you need it without the increased tire wear when driving on the street.
Thanks for the reminder! I'm coming from a mcpherson strut car. I'm pretty clued in on how toe/camber affects handling but not caster. Are you saying caster affects the rate at which the camber changes through suspension travel?
 
Factory settings for a Sport chassis, V6 on Goodyear are:-

Camber
Front 0.8 Degrees
Rear 1.5 Degrees

Toe
Front 1.2mm Out each side 2.4mm out total
Rear 1mm In each side 2mm in total

I believe the difference with Cup 2s is only a slight increase in camber.

These settings are straight from the factory as I couldnt find any concrete info anywhere. They also gave me the I4 settings but I don’t have them to hand. The I4 runs more camber than the V6.
 
Thanks for the reminder! I'm coming from a mcpherson strut car. I'm pretty clued in on how toe/camber affects handling but not caster. Are you saying caster affects the rate at which the camber changes through suspension travel?

More caster means more camber on the outside tire when the steering wheel is turned. Just imagine the wheel leaning over when you turn it, you should be able to see this visually just by cranking your steering wheel to one side and looking at it. More positive caster will mean more camber.
 
And don't forget, one of the biggest advantages of a double wishbone car compared to a McPherson strut car is the improvement in toe control through the suspension travel. Most McPherson strut designs gain toe-out under compression, which contributes to understeer. Double wishbone setups have far less toe shift through their range of travel. Which is one of the reasons that Lotus is able to use more slightly more aggressive static toe settings in the factory alignment.
 
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Did you observe i4 AMG M139 engine cars being built, and such cars being stored for shipment? The other issue is to discern I4s for China, and for the rest of the world. Of course you will also have RHD vs LHD depending on markets. Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Australia etc will be RHD. The first non-China i4 has now arrived and is registered for road use in Australia. Lotus does not give out any information on progress, so receiving some info from participants in “Factory Tours” has become crucial to get any “progress report”.

Obviously there is also the issue whether the problems of delays in shift action on the DCT gearbox has been fixed (sorted) or not? Lotus is completely “mum” on this subject.

Thanks for divulging anything you may have observed or heard.
Oh, you might not have realised, that post of mine was from June last year, not recent... I too am eagerly awaiting an I4 though!!
 
Oh, you might not have realised, that post of mine was from June last year, not recent... I too am eagerly awaiting an I4 though!!

Dear friend: I guess we all loose sight of dates in all this endless waiting-mess 💐
 
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Got an alignment done by the dealer. Wasn't aware the ride height was different between touring and sports (I have sports with goodyears)
Thank you for this — this is way more official and has some interesting data like they tuned in a load of toe out with the goodyear tires to probably get some more desirable handling characteristics out of the tire.
 
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Got an alignment done by the dealer. Wasn't aware the ride height was different between touring and sports (I have sports with goodyears)
This is really helpful. Glad to see not much difference in camber settings between sport and touring. Front toe differences are interesting, gives some food for thought.
 
Got an alignment done by the dealer. Wasn't aware the ride height was different between touring and sports (I have sports with goodyears)
Interesting doc, thanks for posting. It seems to indicate that the height is lower for Cup 2s than F1s, but it doesn't specifically mention Sports vs Touring with regard to ride height, i.e sports on F1s would be the same ride height as Sports on Cup 2s. Am I reading it right?
 
Interesting doc, thanks for posting. It seems to indicate that the height is lower for Cup 2s than F1s, but it doesn't specifically mention Sports vs Touring with regard to ride height, i.e sports on F1s would be the same ride height as Sports on Cup 2s. Am I reading it right?
I’m reading it as a difference between tyres.

3mm rear difference between Goodyears and Michelins, which would just be slight difference in sidewall height.
 
Thanks for posting that. I've been curious what differences they were doing. Doesn't look like they gave the cup2s a track alignment. My guess is they are simply doing more toe-in on the cup2s so they feel different in more normal driving situations. The increased toe-in as compared to the goodyears will make them feel more responsive right around center.
 
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This is really helpful. Glad to see not much difference in camber settings between sport and touring. Front toe differences are interesting, gives some food for thought.
Keeping in mind my experience with front steering geometry set up is from superkarts not cars, these settings do make sense considering what each tyre is designed for. Toe out is generally used to give more bite on initial turn in and makes a noticeable difference in the wet. This increased grip when turning in is at the expense of increased rolling resistance/friction when driving in a straight line. Given the Goodyear F1 tyres are more of a road tyre, toe out makes sense. However more grippy tyres (especially with a hot & dry track surface) tend to adopt a toe-out stance naturally so if the geo is already set to toe-out then friction in a straight line is increased even further leading to excessive tyre wear & over heating. Ideally in the dry with sticky tyres, toe would be set to zero. However the tendency to toe out needs to be compensated and by setting the geo to slight toe-in, the tyres naturally run straight. This set up would suit more grippy (sticky) Cup2 tyres on hot dry track days.
 

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