GiroDisc rotors

Tracked Emira

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Just spoke with GiroDisc. I have used stoptech, brembo and willwood brake rotors on my dodge challenger. And the stoptech were the best, but they got bought out.
I never tried AP racing, but they would be very compareable to the GiroDisc from what I have read. I guess price will be a factor in choosing as well.
I use Girodisc rotors on my NSX with their race pads and had no fade and rotors never scored. It weighs about 4,300 lbs with me and fuel. Tracking for 20 minute sessions around the New York safety track is hard on the brakes with no big straights to cool down. The rotors and pads were flawless with consistent stopping power with AP racing R4 brake fluid.
The good news is they will be ready in a couple of months. I asked if they can give us a group buy discounted price. The pricing will be in line with their other rotors.

Who is interested to be on the list for a group buy order?
www.girodisc.com
 
I'm in. I commented in a couple of different threads about my experience. I have used GiroDiscs extensively on both Lotus and Porsche platforms and cannot say enough good things. I'm surprised it's taken them this long to get them out.
 
We will have the Emira fronts & rears from Girodisc available as soon as they are released.
Happy to facilitate an initial discount/group buy if you want to order through us.
 
I’m a cheap date, I’ll do anything for a discount. I’m in on the first group buy, whoever runs point.

Also, greg @GRP I’m dying to give you my money for those B10’s as soon as the team nails the whole passenger airbag situation. Fingers crossed you guys are making progress. I miss my CF buckets in my Carrera T!
 
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I should go up and visit them. I can't believe I bought DBA stuff for my Evo THEN found out Girodisc was only a few hours drive away.
 
I'm interested. If GRP can coordinate it might be easiest for all involved, including building a stronger partnership long-term.
They are supposed to email us as soon as they have anymore info so I will keep you all posted here.
Once we have part numbers, pricing and an eta we could do a group buy.
 
1745545056604.webp
 
Just from my experience, blanket brake cooling isn't always the answer.

It's best to assess your braking sustained temps and operational window to determine if cooling is needed.

Although these air scoops may be less forceful, I went through a period of cracking rotors when I was ducted (race car, not emira) without noticeable benefits. I didn't experience fade or inconsistent braking prior. I actually got more inconsistent braking when I was ducted (suspect temps cooled too much on the straights). Removed the ducts, no more cracking and my pad wear rate was the same, but I could make the rotors last longer.

Everyone in the paddock told me I needed brake cooling, so I just took the advice without a thought. But after real data collection, it was contranian for my driving style, use, and results. YMMV.

Not challenging you or your use case, but just driving the point that we should all assess our setups and let data drive the approach.
 
What was the brand of your rotors?
Where they 2 piece floating rotors?
Slotted or cross drilled?
What brand pads and which ones did you use and did they score your rotors?
What race car was it and what was the weight?
Which brake fluid did you use?
How long were your sessions?
What was the outside temperature when they cracked?
 
What was the brand of your rotors?
Where they 2 piece floating rotors?
Slotted or cross drilled?
What brand pads and which ones did you use and did they score your rotors?
What race car was it and what was the weight?
Which brake fluid did you use?
How long were your sessions?
What was the outside temperature when they cracked?

We can take this offline, be happy to share my data and findings with you. I'll PM you.

I have no skin in the game to whether or not others run brake cooling or not. Just simply suggesting to let data guide one's decisions.
 
I had a similar experience in my Elise when I started to become a fast driver after a few years. My brakes were holding me back and the advice was to do a BBK in front, and relocate the front brakes to the rear, but with sintered metal pads, I could break traction on Yoko A005's when braking, so the only problem was heat going into brake fluid. A set of BOE stainless pistons which are poor transmitters of heat fixed that, and I continued to track the car like that for another decade.
 

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