KEF Audio Upgrade Parts - Now Available!

[KJWEmira]

I want to place an order. How can I do that?

Hi WestCoastJunki,

I'll send you a private message.

 

[WestCoastJunki]

Hi WestCoastJunki,

I'll send you a private messaged you basck!

Got it and sent you an email

 

[Factorv4]

As promised, here are the final 3D printed versions of the front and rear speaker mounts, & Amp Mount, allowing you to upgrade your KEF audio to a far superior system. The front mounts allow you to transform from a 3" speaker to any 6.5" speaker, and the rear mounts allow you to install any far superior 5" speaker.

I’m able to produce both front and rear mounts on demand at a cost of £435 (Including postage if you’re within the UK). The mounts are 3D printed at 100% infill, not hollow or honeycomb.

The amp mount can also be produced upon request for £180, (formed from a single sheet of 5mm aluminium, plasma cut & folded into the perfect shape to mount in place of the cars original sub). All holes are pre-drilled and it’s made to take any Audison Forza amp. A 70mm Stainless-steel blanking plate (to cover the bottom free-to-air sub drain-hole).

Speaker wiring colour codes will also be included, saving you hours of time.

I’ve personally completed this upgrade to my own Emira and the difference is night and day – If you enjoy your music as much as the car, then this upgrade is definitely worth it!

I’m sure there will be many questions, and hopefully I’ll have all of the answers as the installation was completed by myself (plus taken 100’s of pictures along the way should these also be of interest).

How hard was it to take the door panels apart?

 

[KJWEmira]

How hard was it to take the door panels apart?

Hi,

Not bad at all. Have a read of the below:-

To remove the main door panels – There’s only x2 10mm bolts underneath the arm rest on the main door card. Once these bolts are removed, slowly & carefully lift the panel UP (don't pull towards you) and disconnect the wiring harness plugs and unclip the door opening cable from the handle.

To remove the inner plastic door card – Have a look at the picture I’ve attached. Remove the 3 torx bolts (Orange arrows) and gently pull off the window motor and disconnect the wiring loom from it. Next, remove the x2 bolts securing the sensor (Red arrows). There's approx. x16 bolts (Yellow arrows) holding this plastic card to the door. You’ll need to unclip the annoying clips holding the wiring harness to this panel. There’s one of these clips on the back side of this panel holding the window mech to it too....

WARNING – Be careful leaning on the window! It will now be free to move up and down by hand!!

Hope this helps – was this the information you were looking for? Let me know should you require any more.

 

[Wiz33]

Hi KJWEmira
(1) Is it OK to PM you personally to ask some detailed questions regarding install and possibilities (choices) regarding the Emira car audio improvements?

(2) Regarding the 6.5 inch 3D printed replacement speaker mounts for the doors. I personally favor using KEF units in these spaces, and I would preferably like a 5-inch KEF compatible 3D printed part. If I paid you for designing and printing (maybe someone else would also like this?), would you consider designing/printing the nessessary part?

(3) I have still not received my i4 (ordered in summer 2021) so I have no physical vehicle to examine and explore. At times I have heard that the Emira possibly has a center channel speaker on top of the dashboard, near the windshield. Is that center channel speaker there? Or even if it isn’t; are there facilities for inserting/mounting and electrically connect such a speaker there. I think in this location the talked about 3 inch KEF unit would be the choice.

Really appreciate your work, KJWEmira

Just one more comment:

For damping material in doors and other internal spaces; I am personally interested in using the lightweight material called: ANGEL HAIR or TWARON derived from KEVLAR, and it can be obtained from MUNDORF in Germany.

I already have experience with this material for home audio speaker use; and I can vote for the sound and efficiency.

Individual KEF Uni-Q 6 1/2" driver with 3/4" Tweeter is available in their Home Theater range as ceiling speaker

 

[Mino]

Hertz Mille ML 280.3 - Tweeters
Hertz Mille ML 1650.3 - Front
Hertz Cento CX130 - Rear
Audison Prima APBX 10 AS2 - Sub
Audison Forza AF M8.14 bit - Amp

"Skinz" was used for sound deadening, then self-adhesive acoustic foam stuck on top, but only where the speakers bounce off of.

Great Job Man! can you tell me more about the Subwoofer ? did you install any as I can't see it on the list here ? honestly my main problem is that I dont like the sound of the bass in the current setup and was wondering how did you solve that ? did you install a subwoofer box behind the seat or just the above speakers ?

 

[KJWEmira]

Great Job Man! can you tell me more about the Subwoofer ? did you install any as I can't see it on the list here ? honestly my main problem is that I dont like the sound of the bass in the current setup and was wondering how did you solve that ? did you install a subwoofer box behind the seat or just the above speakers ?

Hi Mino,

Yes, the sub is on the list - Audison Prima APBX 10 AS2.
It's a 10" Active sub with its own built in Amp - mounted behind the right-hand seat (on the parcel shelf). This sub also comes with an adjustable gain controller that I've mounted within easy reach of the drivers seat.

Should you install one, it'll improve your bass for sure, however, the OEM Audio issue is the size & quality of the KEF components, plus how & where they've been installed. You're not going to get much out of the 3" speakers in the front, and also there are no vocals produced from the current 5" speakers in the rear...
Finally, everyone is having to turn up the volume to the max.....I don't have this issue anymore and with the equipment installed there is zero distortion at high volume - just clear and crisp vocals and plenty of bass

 

[Time2Fly]

@KJWEmira I've probably missed it but what's the total buy in for your setup?

 

[Mino]

Hi Mino,

Yes, the sub is on the list - Audison Prima APBX 10 AS2.
It's a 10" Active sub with its own built in Amp - mounted behind the right-hand seat (on the parcel shelf). This sub also comes with an adjustable gain controller that I've mounted within easy reach of the drivers seat.

Should you install one, it'll improve your bass for sure, however, the OEM Audio issue is the size & quality of the KEF components, plus how & where they've been installed. You're not going to get much out of the 3" speakers in the front, and also there are no vocals produced from the current 5" speakers in the rear...
Finally, everyone is having to turn up the volume to the max.....I don't have this issue anymore and with the equipment installed there is zero distortion at high volume - just clear and crisp vocals and plenty of bass

Thanks !

I checked with the local supplier here and these speakers and AMP all together come at an expensive cost around $3500, do you think you can recommend me other models from the same brand but lower on the category or power without compromising much on the sound ?

 

[KJWEmira]

Thanks !

I checked with the local supplier here and these speakers and AMP all together come at an expensive cost around $3500, do you think you can recommend me other models from the same brand but lower on the category or power without compromising much on the sound ?

Hi Mino,

I've received your message and replied.

To answer your question on recommending other models from the same brand - This is a tough one as there are many to chose from. Unfortunately, this is a question for the audio supplier you're purchasing from as they will explain the difference & capabilities between products . If Possible, definitely stick with Audison Amps and Hertz speakers, you'll be amazed at the transformation.
With these products it's the case of you get what you pay for, including a substantial warranty.

 

[KJWEmira]

@KJWEmira I've probably missed it but what's the total buy in for your setup?

Hi Time2Fly,

Approx £2600 on all Speakers & Amplifier. I also found the difference in the cost between suppliers varied a lot, it's definitely worth shopping around.

 

[Time2Fly]

Is it possible to build in a closed sub without taking up the parcel space? Maybe use a contour gauge or 3d scan the space to 3D print an enclosure?

 

[KJWEmira]

Is it possible to build in a closed sub without taking up the parcel space? Maybe use a contour gauge or 3d scan the space to 3D print an enclosure?

Anything is possible to engineer and build, however, this is the only place for an additional amp when running larger / more powerful speakers, plus keep all wiring hidden behind OEM panels. In the space you're referring to, you'd be lucky to install a 6" sub.
Sorry, but it wouldn't be something I'd consider attempting.

 

[KJWEmira]

We'd just like to say a BIG thank you to all that have made the decision to upgrade their KEF audio system and purchased speaker & amp mounts - We didn't ever think it would become this popular. What started out as a small personal project has quickly turned very interesting for all!

We have answered many, many enquires and questions, so please feel free to keep them coming - direct messaging is accepted, as this seems to be the preferred choice.

After a short break it's been a very busy weekend, as you'll see by the amount of orders we are packing up to ship worldwide.

 

[KJWEmira]

@SteveFromNY

Remove all boot interior trims, and all rear cabin interior trims.

Remove left-rear wheel and wheel arch liner - With the liner removed, pictures 331 & 338 will be clearer as these are pictures of the battery / boot from the other side and show where I've drilled through to run power cables from the battery. The cables were then secured to the other power cables already running over the wheel arch. Picture 343 shows the end result and conduit fitted to all cables .

Picture 1134 is taken from inside the cabin, (left-rear). This stainless steel plate is behind the fuse box. The fuse box unbolts from its mounting frame to allow easy access. It's easier to drill this plate from the wheel arch liner side - this is the best place I found to get the power cables into the cabin.

Picture 374 are the power and earth cables being fed into the cabin, & pictures 415 & 417 show where these were ran across the top of the bulk head / fire wall.

Picture 3 shows the OEM subwoofer and where I've cut the wires. This is easy to access once all rear interior trims are removed.

My suggestion - I installed my sub on the right-rear side of the parcel shelf, so as not to hinder access to the fuse box and emergency boot release cable on the left-rear. Picture 541 is of the removable engine access cover, which I removed, drilled and installed 2 bolts. This keeps my sub firmly in place while driving hard / track days.

 

[SteveFromNY]

@SteveFromNY

Remove all boot interior trims, and all rear cabin interior trims.

Remove left-rear wheel and wheel arch liner - With the liner removed, pictures 331 & 338 will be clearer as these are pictures of the battery / boot from the other side and show where I've drilled through to run power cables from the battery. The cables were then secured to the other power cables already running over the wheel arch. Picture 343 shows the end result and conduit fitted to all cables .

Picture 1134 is taken from inside the cabin, (left-rear). This stainless steel plate is behind the fuse box. The fuse box unbolts from its mounting frame to allow easy access. It's easier to drill this plate from the wheel arch liner side - this is the best place I found to get the power cables into the cabin.

Picture 374 are the power and earth cables being fed into the cabin, & pictures 415 & 417 show where these were ran across the top of the bulk head / fire wall.

Picture 3 shows the OEM subwoofer and where I've cut the wires. This is easy to access once all rear interior trims are removed.

My suggestion - I installed my sub on the right-rear side of the parcel shelf, so as not to hinder access to the fuse box and emergency boot release cable on the left-rear. Picture 541 is of the removable engine access cover, which I removed, drilled and installed 2 bolts. This keeps my sub firmly in place while driving hard / track days.

You’re amazing, this is much appreciated!!