Removing factory seat and installing Tillet B10-tips and tricks

[Totally Average]

Awesome write up, this is what forums are about!

 

[RyanGphoto]

We could always do something like this
A White leather stripe and stitching, then it would not matter if the white was not perfect shade.
We did look at getting the actual Bridge of Weir leather but it’s not a consistent supply. Here one minute gone the next, Therefore it’s hard to sell products on the basis of colours that may go out of stock next week. The tan is easy to match with a standard colour.
View attachment 54326

i would personally not want alcantara at all.. The red stitch to be yellow, so now my mind is running and I might have to look into this more.

Thanks for the post.

 

[Steve Tillett]

i would personally not want alcantara at all.. The red stitch to be yellow, so now my mind is running and I might have to look into this more.

Thanks for the post.

We could do them all leather with red stitching. But really we can do what people want within reason.
We don't use Alcantara, Our Dinamica autograde suede material is what Merc and Audi use. I am told it's harder wearing and more colour fast.

 

[kitkat]

So should I get 35, 40 or 50mm bolts ?

 

[Steve Tillett]

So should I get 35, 40 or 50mm bolts ?

With the latest Emira kits we have special 14.9 strength 35 mm long bolts in them, which should be long enough to fit the standard B10 seat and all the required spacers. You need around 10 mm at each point on an XL and 20 mm for a standard size B10 on each mount point.
Longer bolts of 40 or 50 mm are OK in this seat as the holes depth is not limited by the inside skin. Make sure they are 12.9 strength minimum.
Also push the bracket in on the runner as much as you can before doing it up on the runner, as this reduces the spacer requirement if only by a few mm each side.

 

[kitkat]

@Steve Tillett should i prefer using the metal 4mm spacer over a plastic one? The ones that come with the seat, or are they functionally the same?

 

[Steve Tillett]

@Steve Tillett should i prefer using the metal 4mm spacer over a plastic one? The ones that come with the seat, or are they functionally the same?

Aluminium ones are technically better of course. But the cost is much higher than the glass filled nylon and we have never had a problem in 24 years with the Nylon. Just do them up tight to 35 Nm, and they are only to space the seat and bracket, don't put the nylon under the bolt head. I have seen some people do this.

 

[Chriscpm]

The tan looks great.

Just checking on this, but does the airbag still work, or not? The word delete is a concern.

 

[Steve Tillett]

The tan looks great.

Just checking on this, but does the airbag still work, or not? The word delete is a concern.

The side air bag inside the seat are taken out with the OEM seats and are not there at all obviously, but the others should be unaffected. Otherwise if one was faulty you would be left with none going off. With a race orientated seat like a B10 you are locked in a central position and cannot fly sideways out of the seat, which is the reason the ones inside the flat OEM seat exist.

 

[ef_arime]

View attachment 54190

Is there a photo of these tan seats installed anywhere?

 

[Steve Tillett]

Is there a photo of these tan seats installed anywhere?

I will see if I can locate a customer and get a picture of them in the car.
I have another picture of the seat out of the car.

 

[ef_arime]

I will see if I can locate a customer and get a picture of them in the car.
I have another picture of the seat out of the car.

Thanks for that. I can’t wait to see what these seats look like with the tan leather interior.

 

[Brokenblinker]

I thought I would add some notes after doing this recently.

1) The yellow plug slides out of its clip in the floor, you don't necessarily need to pull out the black clip (which I nearly found impossible, the aluminum tab that supports it was bending before it would pop out)

2) I could not fit my hex driver between the stock seat and the door seal to undo the seat belt anchor to the stock seat. I ended up pulling the bottom of the seat towards me and tipping the top of the seat away. This provided access for the hex driver, and is also the method that I use to pull the seat out eventually.

3) I was hoping to be able to use the bottom hole on the front of the bracket for my b10 XL, but if you use the bottom hole of the brackets the brackets will rub the seat. So I had to use the second from the bottom. I still wish I could get a bit lower.

 

[Steve Tillett]

I thought I would add some notes after doing this recently.

1) The yellow plug slides out of its clip in the floor, you don't necessarily need to pull out the black clip (which I nearly found impossible, the aluminum tab that supports it was bending before it would pop out)

2) I could not fit my hex driver between the stock seat and the door seal to undo the seat belt anchor to the stock seat. I ended up pulling the bottom of the seat towards me and tipping the top of the seat away. This provided access for the hex driver, and is also the method that I use to pull the seat out eventually.

3) I was hoping to be able to use the bottom hole on the front of the bracket for my b10 XL, but if you use the bottom hole of the brackets the brackets will rub the seat. So I had to use the second from the bottom. I still wish I could get a bit lower.

On your point about using the lower front hole. I am afraid when I had to add another set of holes on top for shorter drivers, it meant that the bracket will impact the leg area of the seat on the lowest front hole. The solution is to either cut a little off the bracket where it impacts the leg bulge, or using some tape and a big adjustable spanner bend the top out a little. I apologise that this is a bit rudimentary as a solution but the alternative was another set of brackets. The amount of people who would need the front that low is a small proportion of the drivers.