12mm spacers, seems a bit much on front

[kitkat]

I’ve got a very slight vibration on the steering wheel at circa 100mph. I’m running 12mm hub centric spacers. Not sure if I always had this or not. It’s not bad, but it’s there.

Is there a correct way to install wheels with hub centric spacers, to ensure they are properly/perfectly centred? Any opinions as to whether a hub centric spacer can cause this sort of issue?

I will get around to testing without the spacers, to see if it makes any difference (live in an apartment and don’t have car tools to change a wheel ATM).

Make sure there’s no debris or rust buildup on the hub mounting surface or the lip of the hub. Start pattern mounting but use two sets of torque values — a lower one to center and then a final one to torque to official spec.

 

[RyanGphoto]

I just installed 12mm hub centric spacers from GRP and lowering sleeves. Also did CT carbon full kit and it looks awsome. Prior to this installation, I also did 3 rd cat delete with miltek valve control and eventuri Intake. So far no issue whatsoever just happy with the result.

LOVE the carbon on the White.. Looks sick man.. Love the whole car.. Congrats. I wish I like carbon fibre but I just don't.. I am hoping somone (GRP talked about it) would make a wing or rear lip spoiler in the same black as the black pack or able to paint it.. I would def buy that.

 

[lynchy73]

I’ve got a very slight vibration on the steering wheel at circa 100mph. I’m running 12mm hub centric spacers. Not sure if I always had this or not. It’s not bad, but it’s there.

Is there a correct way to install wheels with hub centric spacers, to ensure they are properly/perfectly centred? Any opinions as to whether a hub centric spacer can cause this sort of issue?

I will get around to testing without the spacers, to see if it makes any difference (live in an apartment and don’t have car tools to change a wheel ATM).

I got the wheels balanced and that resolved the slight vibration I was getting after fitting the spacers.

I’ve now lowered it a little by just moving the shock circlip and am happy with the results (10mm difference on the shock). Not a big drop, but enough IMO. The roads around here can be pretty terrible, not sure I’d want it much lower, or firmer than it is now.

 

[675430VME]

The roads around here can be pretty terrible, not sure I’d want it much lower, or firmer than it is now.

Using this approach will actually get your a softer ride

 

[lynchy73]

Using this approach will actually get your a softer ride

I believe spacers (or higher offset wheels) effectively reduce the spring rate a little.

Many thanks for the tip/info about the suspension circlip modification

 

[Speedy Emira]

I believe spacers (or higher offset wheels) effectively reduce the spring rate a little.

Many thanks for the tip/info about the suspension circlip modification

Are you using the standard wheel fittings?
I have yet to fit the GRP titanium motorsport fittings. Apparently you torque up the threaded bars which stay on permanently which hopefully will ensure the wheels are perfectly lined up after fitting.
Previously after getting what I thought was a balancing issue after going down a road full of potholes I removed the front wheels and refitted using lining up bolts and the issue disappeared. Also good to clean every as suggested by Kitkat.

 

[lynchy73]

Are you using the standard wheel fittings?
I have yet to fit the GRP titanium motorsport fittings. Apparently you torque up the threaded bars which stay on permanently which hopefully will ensure the wheels are perfectly lined up after fitting.
Previously after getting what I thought was a balancing issue after going down a road full of potholes I removed the front wheels and refitted using lining up bolts and the issue disappeared. Also good to clean every as suggested by Kitkat.

No, I bought longer bolts, 45mm if I’m not mistaken. 32mm as standard.

The spacers used on the Emira are not the type that bolt to the hub, with additional bolts to the wheels. The hub centric feature on the doacer, should avoid any misalignment.

The small issue I had was a wheel balance issue, Lotus checked the front wheels and had to adjust the weights a little. After that, no more vibration. TBH it was very slight and was likely always there, was just a bit more sensitive to it, after adding the spacers.

 

[Speedy Emira]

No, I bought longer bolts, 45mm if I’m not mistaken. 32mm as standard.

The spacers used on the Emira are not the type that bolt to the hub, with additional bolts to the wheels. The hub centric feature on the doacer, should avoid any misalignment.

The small issue I had was a wheel balance issue, Lotus checked the front wheels and had to adjust the weights a little. After that, no more vibration. TBH it was very slight and was likely always there, was just a bit more sensitive to it, after adding the spacers.

I have hub centric spacers as well but it’s still easier than you think to not line them up 100% which can have an effect. The lining up tools are pretty cheap and as long as all faces are clean gets it perfect every time. My mate let me use his and I realised how easy it was to change a wheel.

 

[lynchy73]

I have hub centric spacers as well but it’s still easier than you think to not line them up 100% which can have an effect. The lining up tools are pretty cheap and as long as all faces are clean gets it perfect every time. My mate let me use his and I realised how easy it was to change a wheel.

Ok, wasn’t aware such a tool existed. Something like this?

 

[MTV]

Fitted the 12mm spacers from GRP and was concerned they may be too wide. They arent, Just right. I haven't lowered the car.....yet but would only help to improve the overall look and stance.
I changed to the Continental Sportcontact 7's at the same time.

 

[RyanGphoto]

Ok, wasn’t aware such a tool existed. Something like this?

I used these and they REALLY helped getting the wheel back on the car. Such a great cheap tool.

Ryan G

 

[RyanGphoto]

Here are some pics of the 10mm hubcentric spacers pics. I think the front on 10mm is Perfect.. I think 12mm would be better for the rear.

I don't plan on dropping it, although after looking at it I think I might! SOO much money going into the car. ha

Ryan G

 

[EZcheezy]

Here are some pics of the 10mm hubcentric spacers pics. I think the front on 10mm is Perfect.. I think 12mm would be better for the rear.

I don't plan on dropping it, although after looking at it I think I might! SOO much money going into the car. ha

Ryan G

I dont see any pics

 

[kitkat]

Using this approach will actually get your a softer ride

Do you have an explanation to that claim?

 

[RyanGphoto]

I dont see any pics

Sorry about that..

 

[675430VME]

Do you have an explanation to that claim?

Because the springs are now sitting lower which makes the pre-compression rate also lower. In reality, its very minor, but you can still feel the difference when you do a sudden lane change, confirmed by my tuner and my racing instructor.

 

[675430VME]

Fitted the 12mm spacers from GRP and was concerned they may be too wide. They arent, Just right. I haven't lowered the car.....yet but would only help to improve the overall look and stance.
I changed to the Continental Sportcontact 7's at the same time.

After a month of installing the GRP kit, the suspension is finally settled (2300km overall), I wish I have listened to my tuner and go for 15mm extra ET on my new set of wheels. 12mm is safe, but 15 has the best look.

 

[Tomwa]

Because the springs are now sitting lower which makes the pre-compression rate also lower. In reality, its very minor, but you can still feel the difference when you do a sudden lane change, confirmed by my tuner and my racing instructor.

I don't think that's sufficiently true.

You can't change the 'rate' of a spring with pre-compression. Feel free to go find as many different resources supporting or denying that claim.

Preload will help you manage ride-height or corner balancing, but if the collar location change is done evenly across the car the corner balancing should not change.


Pre-load is literally only done for 2 things.
1. To ensure the spring stays seated at full droop conditions of the shock/suspension.
2. Corner balancing the car so that it does not have a 'long leg' like a stool/chair with a short/long leg acts 'tippy'. Harder to know/understand when each leg has a compliant (spring/shock) leg, but is there.

Getting scales and 'corner balancing' is the car is the only reason to adjust the preload it will not change the springs stiffness or behavior.

 

[675430VME]

I don't think that's sufficiently true.

You can't change the 'rate' of a spring with pre-compression. Feel free to go find as many different resources supporting or denying that claim.

Preload will help you manage ride-height or corner balancing, but if the collar location change is done evenly across the car the corner balancing should not change.


Pre-load is literally only done for 2 things.
1. To ensure the spring stays seated at full droop conditions of the shock/suspension.
2. Corner balancing the car so that it does not have a 'long leg' like a stool/chair with a short/long leg acts 'tippy'. Harder to know/understand when each leg has a compliant (spring/shock) leg, but is there.

Getting scales and 'corner balancing' is the car is the only reason to adjust the preload it will not change the springs stiffness or behavior.

So in your experience with the GRP kit, you feel the ride is more harsh comparing to the factory setting?

 

[Tomwa]

So in your experience with the GRP kit, you feel the ride is more harsh comparing to the factory setting?

I don't have GRP coil sleeves, but anyone with coilovers can actively run this experiment.

Of course, it's not a fun experiment to run, since raising and lowering a car changes alignment settings. But no coilover manufacturer mentions about adjusting stiffness using the spring perch.

Lowering a car can still create all kinds of other potential adverse effects.
- Less travel available on suspension arms. You haven't removed 1/2 the travel of the shock but you could remove have the travel of the upper A-arm to the frame.

- Geometry. Specifically the suspension geometry of the front tie rods and lower control arm. These both should be parallel to the ground in ideal conditions, lowering a car changes that. Typically the worst offense is bump steer from the tie rods.

- Jacking forces. You can get some tendencies for the suspension to push the car upward when the roll center gets moved downward.

But none of those have to do with the shock and spring themselves.