Adding a subwoofer

Great instructions from Crestima and others!

I’m just struggling with one thing -
Wanted to use the method running the power to that spare bolt under the Rear Left fuse box rather than drill into the rear hatch to the battery as it seems less messy.

But I cannot remove the fuse box panel!
Tried for ages and it just won’t budge, worried I’ll snap it.
There’s a catch on the left and on the right and I think I can feel one underneath but no matter how much I wiggle it, it won’t come free.
Can anyone help?
I’m trying to remove it with only the rear quarter panel off, does it only come off with the whole rear panel removed also?
The lower triangular piece needs to be removed first. There is a tab on that piece that needs to be pressed to remove it.
 
That’s perfect. Done now.
Only thing is I can get the main fuse panel back on but cannot get the lower triangular bit on, can’t get it to fit round that lower metal horizontal brace…..don’t suppose any tips for refitting this bit? I don’t suppose it’s that critical to have that lower panel back on but would be nice!
Kicker Hideaway installed and as others have said, the difference is incredible.
One £400 upgrade has made the audio much much better, prob all I need to make me happy with it. Thanks again for all the tips.

I find I need the Gain on almost the lowest setting (25% max) otherwise it makes the car shake and will blow my ear drums!
Where do you set the crossover setting? I’ve got mine turned near the lowest also.
 
Is there no self amped sub that can sit where the existing sub is? Doesn’t look good having a speaker in a box on the shelf.
 
That’s perfect. Done now.
Only thing is I can get the main fuse panel back on but cannot get the lower triangular bit on, can’t get it to fit round that lower metal horizontal brace…..don’t suppose any tips for refitting this bit? I don’t suppose it’s that critical to have that lower panel back on but would be nice!
Kicker Hideaway installed and as others have said, the difference is incredible.
One £400 upgrade has made the audio much much better, prob all I need to make me happy with it. Thanks again for all the tips.

I find I need the Gain on almost the lowest setting (25% max) otherwise it makes the car shake and will blow my ear drums!
Where do you set the crossover setting? I’ve got mine turned near the lowest also.
My settings are similar to yours on what my ears thought was the best balance. Gain around 25%, crossover set between 50-60hz.

I did not put in sound deadening, so I experience similar panel resonance.
 
Can anyone help with my problem refitting the lower triangular portion of the fusebox panel? Sounds stupid but I just can’t get that bit back on!
 
Can anyone help with my problem refitting the lower triangular portion of the fusebox panel? Sounds stupid but I just can’t get that bit back on!
you could try to loosen the 3 bolts holding the fuse box in place and raise it a bit. That may provide more clearance. If that does not work, post a picture of your situation. I think you want that lower piece on as it protects anything from coming in contact with that live main power wire.
 
This has been a great thread. I finally completed adding the sound deadener and insulation to my car. It's been apart for weeks. My issue was I wanted the bass to sound consistent and it had not prior. I preferred not to add an external sub although this post has proved that the Kicker (and other options) really work well to improve the sound and can look rather stealthy. I just buttoned my interior up and have to say the change is significant. It's much quieter inside and I can hear/feel the bass a lot more. I've tried many different types of music and so far, do not hear the annoying sound that I did before intermittently. I've had the car running but have not taken it out on the road yet. I'd be happy if it sounds the same on the road and would not add an external sub at this time. It's clear the sound deadener/insulation is a worthwhile if tedious mod.

Just thought I would share.
 

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