Adding a subwoofer

[Orchardbike]

IF your sub can take all the frequencies and remove the higher frequencies, then as you have a single sub, you would need to give it both right and left channels. You can just take a feed from the right and left speakers, take them to the sub (4 cables) and then twist both right and left + together and right and left - together to make 2 cables and connect to the sub, this won’t affect the speakers upstream. I think you’re also saying that the signal from these speakers doesn’t cover the higher frequencies. This would be a surprise? If that’s the case then you could also take a feed from some of the mid/higher frequency speakers and connect in the same way.

 

[dback]

Thanks for all the info from this thread and crestima's guide. Made my install very quick. I also installed the Kicker HS10 sub setup in the back similar to crestima.

I elected to power the sub by runnung the power wire to an unused power lug that was open on the left hand fuse box. This made things alot tidier in my opinion.

View attachment 60904
View attachment 60905

This provides 12V power from the battery and it's unused. I just found an m8 nut and secured the ring terminal there.
View attachment 60910

I mounted the sub lengthwise instead of right side up. I suspect orientation doesn't matter, but time will tell.

View attachment 60906

As most have said, the difference is night and day. The 10" Kicker sub provide way more bass than the rest of the system is balanced for, so it's a great configuration with the OEM speakers. I will also be adding tweeters in the A-pillars and re-assess the system, but I'm very happy with how things are progressing.

Any feedback from this forum on using that power lug in the fuse box? I’ve always been told to go directly to the battery, but this would make it super convenient and clean to install. Installing my sub next week, so any advice will be welcome. Of course any decision I make will be my own responsibility.

Thanks in advance…this has been the BEST forum for info.

 

[crestima]

Any feedback from this forum on using that power lug in the fuse box? I’ve always been told to go directly to the battery, but this would make it super convenient and clean to install. Installing my sub next week, so any advice will be welcome. Of course any decision I make will be my own responsibility.

Thanks in advance…this has been the BEST forum for info.

Hi,
I had originally connected mine with a dedicated connection through the firewall directly to the battery, but after @jp129 posted his picture revealing that additional (unused) power source under the fuse box, while I had the panels off for soundproofing, I decided to re-connect it to the fuse box source. It happens to be the same as a direct line to the battery except it’s much easier and cleaner. Just keep in mind that you may need to dremmel cut a little bit in the corner of the triangular plastic cover to allow the sub power connection to pass through ( I did) otherwise, you’ll have a hard time getting that triangular cover to go back on. Hope this helps.

 

[Wolfmayhem]

I know this may sound stupid but for those that have done this can I get some help.

This is where I'm at so far. Do I remove this entire panel next?
I guess I missed some of the directions but any help to get this done would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Davebeats]

You have two options at that point, run power wire through the firewall or to the fuse box on the right side of your picture, only need to take that foam off if you plan to add sound deadening material

 

[Wolfmayhem]

Thanks. Where is the existing sub so I can tap into it to hook up the new one?

 

[jp129]

Thanks. Where is the existing sub so I can tap into it to hook up the new one?

Passenger side next to the rear firewall.

 

[EatAHelicopter]

For anyone looking for more information on how to add a sub, I just did it myself and made a tutorial video. Here is the link: @Wolfmayhem

 

[Wolfmayhem]

Wow. Thank you so much for the video. Very helpful.

A few questions for you and everyone on here:

• Did you notice a big difference? Hopefully this is worth it.
• Did you plug the original sub back in?
• What does everyone think about putting the filters on the tweeters. Since we are tapping into the tweeter feeds I wouldn't think you would need them as this should only be high frequencies.
• Only thing I'm going to do different is trying to tap the power at the fuse panel in the back.

Again, thank you and nice job.

 

[EatAHelicopter]

Wow. Thank you so much for the video. Very helpful.

A few questions for you and everyone on here:

• Did you notice a big difference? Hopefully this is worth it.
• Did you plug the original sub back in?
• What does everyone think about putting the filters on the tweeters. Since we are tapping into the tweeter feeds I wouldn't think you would need them as this should only be high frequencies.
• Only thing I'm going to do different is trying to tap the power at the fuse panel in the back.

Again, thank you and nice job.

You're welcome. The difference is noticeable. The stock system was literally unusable to me. I may eventually swap out the door speakers, but this was enough to make me actually happy with the system. The tweeters do raise the sound stage, but it definitely takes a little bit of time to get the tuning just right. I left the original sub unplugged. It sounds super papery to me and I like to have my bass set high. It could be totally placebo, but I felt like the filters made the tweeters sound less harsh. You could probably tap the fuse panel with no issues, but I would make sure you tap one that already has a 15amp or higher fuse. I'm not sure how they wire fuse boxes, but I imagine higher amp fuses have heavier gauge wire.

 

[Kaz]

For anyone looking for more information on how to add a sub, I just did it myself and made a tutorial video. Here is the link: @Wolfmayhem

Is your sub blown out by the fake engine rumble or did you snip the rpm wire? If no to both very curious on why the variation in I4 builds and...that's awesome you avoided all that trouble

 

[F1 SML8R]

Same question, really curious if you cut the rpm wire or if for some odd reason you don't have the fake RPM driven artificial engine noise.

 

[Honcho]

Wow. Thank you so much for the video. Very helpful.

A few questions for you and everyone on here:

• Did you notice a big difference? Hopefully this is worth it.

There is a difference. I listen to my music at quite a low level so sound deadening helped me the most.

• Did you plug the original sub back in?

In my case I did. Also, I only wired in two wires from the factory sub and took the other two from the low frequency speaker above it, feeding into the Kicker sub. I felt that the frequencies from the factory sub cut off too sharply so wired in higher frequencies and then control this with the Kicker built in frequency dial.

• What does everyone think about putting the filters on the tweeters. Since we are tapping into the tweeter feeds I wouldn't think you would need them as this should only be high frequencies.

I decided against fitting them. If you adjust the head unit equaliser you can hear how selective the factory cross overs are so I thought adding extra was not necessary.

• Only thing I'm going to do different is trying to tap the power at the fuse panel in the back.

Pretty straight forward from there. I tapped into the fuse box behind the triagular plastic part at the bottom of it. The plastic can be quite difficult to get back in place but with a bit of forcing mine went back in. Also factor in fusing your power supply.

Again, thank you and nice job.