Did lotus rob us on horsepower?

It up shifts to next gear after it hits 6,500 RPM
If I had to guess I would say that in testing Lotus found that changing up at that point actually gives the best performance.

That said, it is a little strange if there is no way you can go beyond 6500. Is there a manual mode and you change gear using paddles or the lever? If so does it still intervene and change at 6500?
If it does, that is a little weird.

I had a Golf R and an M440i recently that were auto (ok the Golf is kind of a DCT) but if I put those in manual mode I could certainly make them hit the limiter.

Left in auto, though, they would always change up beforehand no matter what mode I was in or how aggressively I was driving.
 
Why are you guys so defensive when it comes to performance? ‘Ooh you got the wrong car’ etc… No we got the right car! This is what we want, but we have been fooled with the numbers! The car is just not ffing performing enough that comes out of Lotus factory and being the latest ice car. we talked about this many times… its not only about the great looks or having a manual trans or whatsoever… it should ffkng perform like a 100k+ car! And thats the point!! I totally feel the pain with the guys who believe this car misses the performance! We are all spending left right and centre to get the numbers right… power to weight ratio etc, i have never seen a Porsche driver spending dousands of extra dollars to get the rev limit higher or add some power or reduce the weight.

Yes I do believe we are fooled and the numbers should be changed! I have never managed to get even close to 4.3sec to a 100!! Its always 5+. Something isn't right and we are all desperately trying to get there were we want it to be.

Stop defending that the is great.. yes by the looks, but thats it!

If you’re never getting less than 5 sec in your car, then either you’re doing something wrong or there’s something wrong with your car.

There’s a video that has been widely circulated here of a manual V6 doing 0-60mph in 4.1, so 0-100kmh would be no more than 4.2 or 4.3.

I haven’t timed my car but I’d bet anything it’s less than 4.5 to 100kmh and probably right on the claimed figures.

In fact if it wasn’t for the 1st to 2nd gear change I’m sure it would be sub 4 sec.

I say that as an ex Ferrari owner and someone who has driven many quick cars so I know what this kind of performance should feel like.
 
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If I had to guess I would say that in testing Lotus found that changing up at that point actually gives the best performance.

That said, it is a little strange if there is no way you can go beyond 6500. Is there a manual mode and you change gear using paddles or the lever?
I think I tried that, but will double check when car is out of storage. Thank you
 
If you’re never getting less than 5 sec in your car, then either you’re doing something wrong or there’s something wrong with your car.

There’s a video that has been widely circulated here of a manual V6 doing 0-60mph in 4.1, so 0-100kmh would be no more than 4.2 or 4.3.

I haven’t timed my car but I’d bet anything it’s less than 4.5 to 100kmh and probabky right on the claimed figures.

In fact if it wasn’t for the 1st to 2nd gear change I’m sure it would be sub 4 sec.

I say that as an ex Ferrari owner and someone who has driven many quick cars so I know what this kind of performance should feel like.
I have driven plenty of fast cars too but have never exactly times my 0-100 times in the Emira with a pro draggy tool. I did used a couple of times the 0-100 timing that my OBD2 app shows but i know thats not too accurate.

I have driven manual gearboxes for 22 years now so I think I know a bit of driving manual cars but thanks for the assumption.

I compare my cars to other cars and doing a pull up from 0 to a 100 with base porsche carrera with same if not less numbers.. thats car smokes me. Not even gonna compare with a 30-50k dollar.. audi s3/rs3 etc… or like
 
The point being made is: the car underperforms for the price tag and the looks it has. Period.

Otherwise 90% of the gents here wouldn't looking in a 5hp more exhaust system and 10hp more intake and 40hp more ecu tune and 100kg of the weight… all for the performance that it is lacking.

And no I dont need to buy another car, i like this car and lotus could have done better for the pricepoint it is selling at.
 
There's really no need to get all up in arms over this. It's a car, and like pretty much any car that's stock from the factory, it's a base starting point for performance increases which is typically what modding is all about.

A Lotus has never been about power or straight line acceleration, but this one is reasonably close to be worth (in my opinion) spending a few coins to improve it, which is what I'm doing. I also enjoy doing this.

There's also two types of weight reduction; static weight and rotating weight. The Honda report was only talking about static weight reduction. Reducing rotating weight, especially unsprung rotating weight is by far much more beneficial. The 2 areas where that's doable are wheels and brake rotors. Engine flywheel and/or clutch (if it's a manual trans.) is another area where the benefit is greater than the amount of weight removed. Better oils that reduce friction and lower resistance can also help.

On the scale of benefit to cost, the cheapest way to start reducing weight is to replace the 43 lb factory battery with a 13 lb Antigravity 40ah battery (GRP sells these) which currently is $819. That's an instant 30 lb reduction with no modifications necessary; slides right into the factory mounts.

The prices start to go up from there for mod improvements.

The next best value (from my experience) was the Eventuri, which cost $1,600 but delivered a clean increase of 16 hp and 15 ft lbs of torque to the rear wheels. I know GRP's same-day test of the Eventuri and other intakes didn't produce those kinds of numbers, but I suspect it was because the ECU didn't have enough time to adjust to each of them. I've done multiple dyno runs stretched out over months, and the results are always consistent.

Next I would put lighter wheels as a good mod. @Aerie has some nice offerings that will typically remove a combined weight of about 24 lbs for all 4 wheels. That's unsprung rotating weight (URW). There are several different opinions of how much of a weight reduction benefit that gives, from anywhere to the equivalent of 4x to 10x the amount of static weight. Just to be conservative, even if you go with the lowest of 4x, removing 24 lbs of URW would have the equivalent effect of removing 96 lbs of static weight. That you can feel. A set of forged aluminum wheels from Aerie will be around $3k (providing tariffs don't change that) which includes shipping. They're well-made, with good finishes.

I know a lot of people do 3rd cat deletes, but I didn't do that so I don't have any data to share. According to Jubu, that supposedly frees up about 5 hp to the rear wheels so that may be worthwhile, and it's relatively cheap if you don't mind the extra noise. Many want the noise, but I didn't.

The titanium exhaust is nice, but at $2,500 it's a bit pricey and isn't going to give you the same benefit spending that same amount of money would on a lighter set of wheels. Depends on your budget and what you want to spend. The benefit of the titanium exhaust is a reduction in weight of about 18 lbs (for the Aerie), and when I dynoed it, there was an increase in torque up to about 2800 rpm, which was nice. I feel more torque at the lower rpms is what the Emira needs the most.

Now you start getting into the really expensive mods. Seats are going to be above $6k, but you do get about a 66 lb reduction in weight. According to @kitkat it does get much louder inside the car; the factory seats apparently absorb a lot of noise. This mod is debatable for a street build, but probably worthwhile for a track focused build.

Next would be either expensive wheels even lighter than what Aerie provides, but now you're up around $10k. What I've chosen to do is go with @Warren-RB RacingBrake's carbon ceramic rotor kit. Also not cheap at $11,600, but it's a reduction of about 23 lbs of URW which according to the 4x formula, will have the effect of removing 92 lbs of static weight. In addition, there should be a drastic reduction in brake dust issues. So between the lighter Aerie wheels and the RB CCB rotors, that's an equivalent weight reduction of 188 lbs, not to mention the actual static weight reduction.

So do you 'have' to do any of this? No, of course not. The Emira as-is is a really nice sports car. If you want a bit more performance, I would say based on my experience, the Eventuri will do the most for you, even before the lighter battery. After that, it's up to you, your budget, and how much you want to do and spend.
 
The point being made is: the car underperforms for the price tag and the looks it has. Period.

Otherwise 90% of the gents here wouldn't looking in a 5hp more exhaust system and 10hp more intake and 40hp more ecu tune and 100kg of the weight… all for the performance that it is lacking.

And no I dont need to buy another car, i like this car and lotus could have done better for the pricepoint it is selling at.
Keep mind it wasn't designed for the price point it's currently selling at. It was designed for a price point of £59,999 but that was before covid and all the crud that did to everything everywhere. I think we're honestly lucky they were able to stick with it and actually get the car produced.
 
I have driven plenty of fast cars too but have never exactly times my 0-100 times in the Emira with a pro draggy tool. I did used a couple of times the 0-100 timing that my OBD2 app shows but i know thats not too accurate.

I have driven manual gearboxes for 22 years now so I think I know a bit of driving manual cars but thanks for the assumption.

I compare my cars to other cars and doing a pull up from 0 to a 100 with base porsche carrera with same if not less numbers.. thats car smokes me. Not even gonna compare with a 30-50k dollar.. audi s3/rs3 etc… or like
I got a Dragy for Christmas but haven't used it yet. We still have snow on the ground, so soon as spring arrives and I can drive the car again, I hope to use the Dragy and start posting some results. I'm not looking for 1/4 miles times as much as 0-60 which is where most of my 'performance' driving tends to be around town, or getting onto the freeway.
 
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Keep mind it wasn't designed for the price point it's currently selling at. It was designed for a price point of £59,999 but that was before covid and all the crud that did to everything everywhere. I think we're honestly lucky they were able to stick with it and actually get the car produced.
This I agree with 100% for that pricepoint it would have been the best car for the buck.

Currently for double that price there are other options I know.. I just love this car and will stick to it until I see 1m mile one the dash or the engine does on me but a replacement toyota engine is 1000usd on the secondary market here just transfer the parts and you are revived, it is a keeper. But I do want to have some power, so its a hobby car and will slowly get there with all the addition and subtractions :)
 
This I agree with 100% for that pricepoint it would have been the best car for the buck.

Currently for double that price there are other options I know.. I just love this car and will stick to it until I see 1m mile one the dash or the engine does on me but a replacement toyota engine is 1000usd on the secondary market here just transfer the parts and you are revived, it is a keeper. But I do want to have some power, so its a hobby car and will slowly get there with all the addition and subtractions :)
Yeah pretty much the same for me. It has the looks I want, pretty much regardless of the price. It's modern with a beautiful interior, handles like a dream, sounds great and has a manual trans. Add Toyota serviceability and prices, and it's worth it to me to spend the few extra bucks to make it the dream Lotus I've always wanted. Nothing else really comes close.
 
The point being made is: the car underperforms for the price tag and the looks it has. Period.

Otherwise 90% of the gents here wouldn't looking in a 5hp more exhaust system and 10hp more intake and 40hp more ecu tune and 100kg of the weight… all for the performance that it is lacking.

And no I dont need to buy another car, i like this car and lotus could have done better for the pricepoint it is selling at.

Not true. The car performs as advertised.
If yours doesn’t, get it checked out. There might be something wrong with it.

This car was made as a Cayman rival, and its performance is equal to or better than that car at a similar price point, while being far better looking and more exotic in every possible way.

In fact there’s a recent PistonHeads comparison where it “beat” a manual 911T which is a far more expensive car (here at least).
 

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