DIY: Floating Console Modification

[kitkat]

This modification deletes the shift boot, the lower shifter mesh grills, and cleans up the look down through the shifter area. It's not for everyone, but for those of us who want the original concept Emira shifter, this is basically it. Special thanks to @Tomwa & @silent cilantro for on disassembly instruction help, and thank you to @Porter for the cheerleading. These guys collaborated with me on the Lotus Discord egging me on to finish this modification up.

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Tools Needed​

• 2.5mm hex
• 4mm hex
• 5mm hex
• T20 torx
• Plastic trim tools
• Cable tie cutter
• Pick tool

3D Model & Printing Tips
See attachments for the Shifter Shroud - Shroud.stl.zip

• Use PETG or a higher temp filament as this will be sitting inside your warm car potentially.
• Use supports from the build plate.
• Print with 5-7 wall loops.
• Print with 100% infill.
• Pay attention to the seam line so it isn't visible, I place it either random or I place it in the back near the cutout.
• Print time for me is about an hour and 55g of PET-CF filament.

If you don't have a 3D printer or know anyone with one I am selling them for a very modest price of $35, feel free to send me a DM. Most of this cost is shipping to the continental US. I'm not selling this to make a profit, this is just me being helpful on the forum. Prints will be made in PET-CF and have a nice matte finish and comes with a plastic trim tool that is printed along with the shroud.

Instructions

1. Remove Gear Knob​

   1. Loosen the M5x16 grub screw from the front of the gear shift knob with a 2.5mm hex key.
      
      
   2. Remove the spring and o-ring, play close attention to their orientation for later re-assembly. The o-ring fits into the shift knob recess.

2. Remove Engine Start Switch Panel Cover​

   1. Remove the center console rubber pad.
      
      
   2. With some gloves, pull up the front plastic gloss plastic tab under the rubber mat. This is the front of the panel cover, pull it straight up.
      THIS PANEL IS SHARP
      
      
   3. Use the trim tool to pry upwards starting from the front and working all the way back. Take care not to damage the aluminum finished plastic. Work your way left and right and backwards until the full panel can be lifted up.
      
      
   4. Take a set of cable ties and clip the zip tie holding the shift boot to the shift knob.
   5. Carefully lift the panel up and disconnect the ignition switch and set it aside. Keep in mind for reassembly the ignition switch mounts from the outside of the panel not the inside.
      
      
   6. Set the panel aside.

3. Removing Driver Side Kick Panel & HVAC Controls​

   1. Remove the left side dash finisher, it has two clips and pulls right off.
      
      
   2. Remove 3 screws, these are a mix of T20 and 4mm (maybe 5mm) hex.
      
      
      
      
      
   3. Disconnect the OBD2 port.
   4. Pull the lower kick panel straight out, 11 clips hold it in place, start from the left and work towards the right. You must be careful when reaching the skinny part over the HVAC controls to not break the panel.
      
      
      
      
      
   5. Disconnect any wiring harnesses you might find and move the panel aside.
   6. Use a T20 to remove the two screws on each side of the HVAC controls and unclip the electrical connector.
      
      
   7. Remove the two T20s on the side of the center console that connects to the lower dash area. They may be hiding behind two small covers.
      
      

4. Lifting The Upper Center Console Cover​

   1. Remove the rubber pads from the cupholders with a pick and remove the 4 screws under them with a T20, you may need a T20 with a longer extension to clear the cupholders.
      
      
      
      
      
   2. Remove the following T20 screws.
      
      
   3. Open the arm rest cover.
   4. Find the edge of the plastic piece that sits right under the edge of the arm rest cover and lift it straight up to disconnect the 4 clips under it.
      
      

5. Removing the Lower Mesh Cages​

   1. Move the driver and passenger seats all the way back.
   2. Lift the center console top.
      
      
   3. Remove the two halves of the cage from the assembly and set them aside.

6. Replace Shift Boot with Plastic Shroud​

   1. Find your switch panel cover with the shift boot and flip it upside down.
   2. Unscrew the 4 T20 screws holding the shift boot in place.
   3. Swap out the shift boot with the plastic shroud.

7. Reassembly​

   1. Reassembly is the opposite of assembly.
   2. Take your time and don’t break any clips.
   3. Always loosely screw in the screws, make sure fitment is spot on, and then tighten your screws.
   4. Make sure you plug in the OBD2 connector before you push the trim piece in.

 

[Pixelated]

This is next level weight saving

 

[Tomwa]

Actually obd connector can be done dead last. But the parking brake module and trunk popper absolutely gotta be plugged in because once some of the panel is in place they are "blind". And the panel "part way" in place can be a bit difficult to wrangle.

Oh. Also be careful when removing the climate module. There are plastic spacers that will tumble free.

When putting the kick panel back, the lower two screws can be hard to start. The are at somewhat and awkward angle and you may not have all the clips fully in. If you find you really have to push on the dash to try to get the screw holes to line up (you won't see unless you are ready for cirque) you are probably missing engagement with a clip or two. There's no super "gentle way" to snug up the dash a few good meat of your palm whacks around the edges getting some clicks in place then the screw holes might be better aligned

 

[silent cilantro]

Great write up man!

Also, you can polish the “mustache” for a more finished look.

 

[John777]

Why? smh.

 

[Time2Fly]

@John777 let people like what they like. Thoroughly unnecessary comment.

 

[Six Speed Stephen]

Why? smh.

 

[kitkat]

Like I said, this ain’t for everyone. I’m glad we can all have different takes on cars.

 

[Aero]

This is an excellent writeup for someone choosing to do this mod and to see what's involved. A lot of hassle in designing and printing a 3D printed part and selling cheap as well.

 

[neiru37]

Amazing write-up for an amazing mod. I'm probably not going to do this myself at least for the time being (warranty, busy with life, etc) but I'll also be here to cheerlead

 

[Porter]

This is an excellent writeup for someone choosing to do this mod and to see what's involved. A lot of hassle in designing and printing a 3D printed part and selling cheap as well.

Hard to get cheaper than the raw cost of materials and shipping! Plus if you have a 3D printer, it's $free.99 which is quite literally unbeatable.

Kudos to @kitkat for doing this great work and then releasing it gratis for anyone who'd like to 3D print one themselves, modify further, or extend the design in their own way. It really shows the spirit of collaboration and giving back that have made this whole community so engaging and fun to be a part of.

 

[crestima]

Amazing write-up for an amazing mod. I'm probably not going to do this myself at least for the time being, but I'll also here to cheerlead

Couldn't agree more. Many here are greatful for initiatives such as this one by kitkat and despite not being so much in to the skeleton look myself, I can definitely understand why others are. Seems to be a shortage of open-mindedness and diversity of taste tolerance going around these days.

 

[seriously]

This certainly makes fine tuning the gear action very easy to do

 

[KCDarkV]

Why? smh.

You really can't imagine that someone would have different taste than you?

 

[Vampyre]

Very nice write up, I also like the polished pieces.

 

[Nova]

Amazing guide. Much more involved than I thought. Thank you for putting together these clear steps. I'm definitely going to do this.

 

[Time2Fly]

Great write-up @kitkat ! And thank you for building and releasing the STL. I imagine you could also get it painted in piano black gloss to match the upper area.

@silent cilantro have you considered getting the mustache bead blasted to match the satin finish of the rest?

 

[silent cilantro]

Great write-up @kitkat ! And thank you for building and releasing the STL. I imagine you could also get it painted in piano black gloss to match the upper area.

@silent cilantro have you considered getting the mustache bead blasted to match the satin finish of the rest?

I didn’t think of that but great idea!

 

[Tomwa]

You could also look into getting it color paint matched to your exterior. (maybe not such an interesting option for someone with Red interior and Zinc Grey exterior like myself) but for those with black or Alcantara interiors and Hethel Yellow exterior, or Seneca Blue, Magma Red. Even Nimbus Grey brought into the interior would look really sharp.

 

[Tomwa]

Great write-up @kitkat ! And thank you for building and releasing the STL. I imagine you could also get it painted in piano black gloss to match the upper area.

@silent cilantro have you considered getting the mustache bead blasted to match the satin finish of the rest?

Problem is. the mustache plate is not aluminum like the rest of the parts. Bead blasted steel will look quite a bit different in luster than aluminum, and also difficult to keep from picking up rust compared to a polished surface with polishing oils etc creating a barrier.