Emira GRP Third Cat Delete Pipe and Milltek Active Valve Exhaust Control Install Video

[Bimmernate]

How did you get the car onto Jack stands? Sorry my ownership is only a few days old so far and I haven't seen a broadly accepted method for getting on jackstands yet considering the small lift pads.

I like my method, very safe and gradual. Buy a pair of 10" adjustable wheel cribs (each wheel crib is two 5" sections), and a pair of esco low profile jack stands. Raise from rear jack pad, place one 5" crib under each wheel. Go to the other side, raise by rear jackpad, place 10" under rear wheel, esco stand under front jackpad. Go back to first side, move 5" wheel crib from the front to the rear (so now 10" in rear), place esco stand up front. You could do it all in one go per side (full crib in rear, esco stand up front), but is just a little more sketchy since the car is so tilted at that height. I've done it all at once and it was fine though.

https://www.raceramps.com/cribs/wheel/p/rr-wc-10-2/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAn9a9BhBtEiwAbKg6frjovBflm7_j_-hTLzMzC4YILgQZ87FigUov1aiNaeLKGTqNRBXYxhoCMs8QAvD_BwE

 

[Dragoon]

Amazon has wheel cribs if you need them quickly.

Amazon.com

 

[Bimmernate]

I found the 10" height to be perfect and I can still use a low profile creeper. If you are a bigger guy though or just want more room, you may want the 12" height. Keep in mind of jack limitations though at those heights, your jack is going to have to be able to get very high. I've got the daytona 3 ton and it i think it gets pretty close to its max height to be able to get the 10" cribs underneath (you have to account for wheel droop)

 

[crestima]

How did you get the car onto Jack stands? Sorry my ownership is only a few days old so far and I haven't seen a broadly accepted method for getting on jackstands yet considering the small lift pads.

Hi @Brokenblinker,

You may already know this, but the Emira has a very strong aluminum beam with a middle sunken groove going around the bottom frame with the lift points identified by a re-enforced aluminum plate on each corner. However, you can essentially use any part of that surrounding beam to lift the car to position your jack stands. I purchased square rubber stand pads on Amazon (first 2 pictures below) and cut one of them to a width of 2.75", using a hacksaw, to make it fit perfectly inside that beam groove to avoid damaging any of the under trays or bolts when jacking up the car. I purchased the jack stands pictured below, also on Amazon, and they work really well giving me around 22 inches of clearance when placed at the max, with the 1/2" rubber pads I use under them (mostly to protect my garage floor or outdoor pavers). Hope this helps.

Jack pads: https://a.co/d/dERe41I

Jack stands: https://a.co/d/8smbqjn

 

[djprov431]

How did you get the car onto Jack stands? Sorry my ownership is only a few days old so far and I haven't seen a broadly accepted method for getting on jackstands yet considering the small lift pads.

Low profile jacks w/race ramps

 

[4N MISSL]

Anyone try the Larini decat? Not sure what those holes are doing there . . . View attachment 59569

I was curious on that as well. Unless all the decats have them. I thought maybe it was for the o2 sensors as well, but they aren’t shown on other pipes

 

[Brokenblinker]

Hi @Brokenblinker,

You may already know this, but the Emira has a very strong aluminum beam with a middle sunken groove going around the bottom frame with the lift points identified by a re-enforced aluminum plate on each corner. However, you can essentially use any part of that surrounding beam to lift the car to position your jack stands. I purchased square rubber stand pads on Amazon (first 2 pictures below) and cut one of them to a width of 2.75", using a hacksaw, to make it fit perfectly inside that beam groove to avoid damaging any of the under trays or bolts when jacking up the car. I purchased the jack stands pictured below, also on Amazon, and they work really well giving me around 22 inches of clearance when placed at the max, with the 1/2" rubber pads I use under them (mostly to protect my garage floor or outdoor pavers). Hope this helps.

View attachment 59732

View attachment 59731

View attachment 59733

Jack pads: https://a.co/d/dERe41I

Jack stands: https://a.co/d/8smbqjn

Just to make sure - is this the sunken groove you are talking about? I made a similar cut on the jacking pads you linked. So I can jack here (in the center of the side of the car)?

 

[crestima]

Just to make sure - is this the sunken groove you are talking about? I made a similar cut on the jacking pads you linked. So I can jack here (in the center of the side of the car)?

Yes, that's it.

 

[djprov431]

As menioned above regarding race ramp heights - I originally bought the 12" blocks and they were waaaay too high, it put the front of the car at such a downward angle that the nose almost touched the ground - I returned the 12" and bought the 8", they're perfect!

 

[Brokenblinker]

Presumably, it would be much easier to Jack the middle of the rail and be able to place both jack stands per side. This would allow you to do things behind the wheels in an unobstructed way.

@djprov431 - I presume you do not do it that way because you are trying to follow the manual's recommendation for lift points?

 

[crestima]

Presumably, it would be much easier to Jack the middle of the rail and be able to place both jack stands per side. This would allow you to do things behind the wheels in an unobstructed way.

@djprov431 - I presume you do not do it that way because you are trying to follow the manual's recommendation for lift points?

The previously identified underbelly frame is sturdy and stiff enough to allow lifting the car at essentially any point on that beam, but because there's significantly more weight bias to the rear due to the engine's location, I generally place my low profile lift, along with my adapted groove-fitted pad, slightly more towards the rear of the side beam, leaving enough space to subsequently maneuver the jack stand on to the rear jack points. Of course, if you opt for the race ramps instead of jack stands, this becomes academic as you can just use the frame's 4 corner lift points.
Btw, an additional safety step I take, and recommend regardless of method chosen, is locking opposing wheels with a couple of chucks. The ones pictured below, ordered from Amazon, have worked really well on the Emira for me as their low profile avoids interference with any part of the lower wheel arch section during the lifting process.

 

[djprov431]

Presumably, it would be much easier to Jack the middle of the rail and be able to place both jack stands per side. This would allow you to do things behind the wheels in an unobstructed way.

@djprov431 - I presume you do not do it that way because you are trying to follow the manual's recommendation for lift points?

I use Race Ramps, so I only need to lift at the OEM lift points to get the ramp under the wheel, then remove the jack. When draining oil I leave the rear on race ramps and move my jacks to either front side and level the car to get all the oil drained....no jack stands in this scenario.

 

[Brokenblinker]

I was doing this install and got to the point where I am trying to remove the rear diffusor (all bolts removed). I can't manage to get it loose. Anyone else have similar struggles and resolve them?

 

[djprov431]

I was doing this install and got to the point where I am trying to remove the rear diffusor (all bolts removed). I can't manage to get it loose. Anyone else have similar struggles and resolve them?

I'm guessing you left one screw on each side of the support strip.... the two outter most screws, one on each side, of the support beam need to be removed, it'll fall down when properly un-fastened so be sure to hold it.

 

[chirowolf]

Did this today. Brilliant. Followed the steps and all went as planned.
If you are having to expand the GRP pipe my muffler shop said only to expand a bit. Stainless can tear. I had the same issue with my pipe being a bit too small. Instead of trying to do the stretch myself I took the pipe to a local shop. The stretch took them about 2 minutes and set me on my way free of charge.
Thanks again for the write up

 

[Brokenblinker]

I'm guessing you left one screw on each side of the support strip.... the two outter most screws, one on each side, of the support beam need to be removed, it'll fall down when properly un-fastened so be sure to hold it.

Yup. Wasn't those two, but had missed the outermost bolts. Thanks...I had stupidly been banging my head for hours.

 

[allenyao09]

I just finished installing the 3rd delete last week and had a very hard time with the installation. My GRP pipe is smaller than the cat pipe, so I need to follow the expansion process. First, I had difficulties expanding the GRP pipe. It was about 2.95 inch wide while the OEM cat pipe is around 3.05 inch. I ended up braking 2 tail pipe expanders before I can expand the GRP pipe to size. The pipe expanders are suited for mild steel pipes, and they don't work well with stainless steel. I had to visit a muffler shop to have the GRP pipe expanded to roughly 3 inch. However, I cannot fit the expanded pipe into the muffler anymore no matter how hard I try, even after I removed the muffler. Again, I had to visit the muffler shop to have the muffler expanded too. The mechanic told me I probably don't need to expand the GRP pipe in the first place, because the muffler pipe is slitted, once I tighten the clamps there shouldn't be any leaks. Anyway, I then finally went back and installed everything. Checked there's no exhaust leak. Took me a very long time to have this sorted out.

 

[Brokenblinker]

I just finished installing the 3rd delete last week and had a very hard time with the installation. My GRP pipe is smaller than the cat pipe, so I need to follow the expansion process. First, I had difficulties expanding the GRP pipe. It was about 2.95 inch wide while the OEM cat pipe is around 3.05 inch. I ended up braking 2 tail pipe expanders before I can expand the GRP pipe to size. The pipe expanders are suited for mild steel pipes, and they don't work well with stainless steel. I had to visit a muffler shop to have the GRP pipe expanded to roughly 3 inch. However, I cannot fit the expanded pipe into the muffler anymore no matter how hard I try, even after I removed the muffler. Again, I had to visit the muffler shop to have the muffler expanded too. The mechanic told me I probably don't need to expand the GRP pipe in the first place, because the muffler pipe is slitted, once I tighten the clamps there shouldn't be any leaks. Anyway, I then finally went back and installed everything. Checked there's no exhaust leak. Took me a very long time to have this sorted out.

Just fyi, I have the same things happen but I was just able to handle it with my expander.

But definitely even though you would think that the slit stock pipe would clamp firmly, the hose clamp that is welded to it runs out of range, and so it stays loose. Better that you got it sorted.

 

[crestima]

Weird... I installed my GRP 3rd Cat delete pipe w/o the need of expanding anything, as It fit like a glove. I can't understand the inconsistency of pipe diameter sizes.

 

[Dragoon]

Just fyi, I have the same things happen but I was just able to handle it with my expander.

But definitely even though you would think that the slit stock pipe would clamp firmly, the hose clamp that is welded to it runs out of range, and so it stays loose. Better that you got it sorted.

Correct! The stock clamp is welded and has a spacer between the bolt and the nut, limiting how much it can clamp. The best thing to do is to have a muffler shop expand the decat pipe to 3" and then use a hand expander to gently open up the inlet pipe on the muffler. That allows the newly expanded decat pipe to slide in and then be securely clamped.