Initial Results after adding Tweeters

[netsinah]

Unfortunately I’m addicted and look at almost all Forum posts, so I’d already seen yours some time ago. My preference is to do the easier and less expensive single tweeter mod, outlined in this particular thread. Best of luck selling your speaker mounts that I know you worked hard to create, which will no doubt result in better sound with the right speakers.

 

[crestima]

I’m relying upon the advice from this thread for my install, so I’ll encourage everyone to post as many helpful pointers as possible. I’m now just waiting for the clamps that I’ve ordered before doing this “Emira surgery” (lol). Your guidance is invaluable, MUCH appreciated, and makes this Forum the best tool in my toolbox! TY x 10!!

Here are some useful materials and tools that I used which you can consider getting (all available on Amazon) should you not already have them.

I used this to poke a guiding marker hole on the small plastic tabs of the tweeter housing in the A-pilar trim. Since it's a small tab it will help center the drill bit when making the hole for the zip ties.

This I used for the delicate surgical cutting of the speaker wire cloth wrap.

This is to wrap the wiring once you tapped into the wires.

 

[jp129]

Would anyone happen to have the wiring colors for the tweeter signals +/-?

I see referenced:

Drivers side - signal wires are Blue/white stripe and purple, unsure of polarity.
Passenger side - signal wires are yellow/white stripe and purple/green stripe, unsure of polarity.

 

[crestima]

Would anyone happen to have the wiring colors for the tweeter signals +/-?

I see referenced:

Drivers side - signal wires are Blue/white stripe and purple, unsure of polarity.
Passenger side - signal wires are yellow/white stripe and purple/green stripe, unsure of polarity.

Solid Blue -> negative
Purple/White Stripe -> positive

Sold Yellow -> negative
Purple/Green Stripe -> positive

 

[jp129]

Thank you!!

 

[Kaz]

Anyone know what ohm rating the front door speakers are running at? I read the mid driver is powered separately from the tweeter but havent found the ohm rating on either/both, thanks! (I did try search as well nothing came up)

 

[KJWEmira]

Anyone know what ohm rating the front door speakers are running at? I read the mid driver is powered separately from the tweeter but havent found the ohm rating on either/both, thanks! (I did try search as well nothing came up)

Hi Kaz,

Luckily I had all these pictures from a previous request - please see the attached.
Hopefully this is the info you're seeking

Please note: -

IMG_0678 - Main Speaker (Drivers Door)
IMG_0679 - Main Speaker (Passenger Door)
IMG_0681 is a REAR Speaker.
IMG_0682 - Tweeter (Passenger Door)

 

[Kaz]

Hi Kaz,

Luckily I had all these pictures from a previous request - please see the attached.
Hopefully this is the info you're seeking

Please note: -

IMG_0678 - Main Speaker (Drivers Door)
IMG_0679 - Main Speaker (Passenger Door)
IMG_0681 is a REAR Speaker.
IMG_0682 - Tweeter (Passenger Door)

thank you!

 

[netsinah]

I’m just finishing my driver side door: insulation and Alpine tweeter. First time I’ve ever done these mods. I owe it all to others who started and contributed to this thread (THANKS!!). I’ll post a few comments, in case it helps others who take on these tasks.

For those of you with a service manual, the obvious reference pages to take apart the door are 15-10 and 15-11. The not so obvious pages are 11-12 and 11-13. Those latter pages explain the trick of pushing the rubber grommets (followed by all disconnected wiring) into the inner door. They also mention disengaging 2 clips, whereas there were a lot more clips: the wiring had to be detached from all.

First off, be prepared to devote ++ time. The sound deadening install is a very tedious/detailed job, so you need patience and an understanding spouse, with tools spread out in the garage and (for me) door pieces in the house, to work on while watching TV. I used a combo of “rubber-backed”/foil/adhesive material (Hushmat brand) and foam/adhesive material (generic brand from Amazon). Here’s 2 photos: one showing the inside of the driver door, and the other the cabin-facing inner door card, as finished. There's many different methods you can use to install the insulation, looking at the photos posted by others and the various YouTube videos. I expect they all achieve the same result. What I did, made a noticeable difference to quiet the door sound resonance.





Reassembling the door, it was a !#\! pain in the butt, to reinstall the 3-screw window motor. I finally made it work, using 3.5” deck screws, to reach further in and snag each of the 3 white plastic inner ends (that the black screws go into), to pull the inner half of the door window assembly close enough, to carefully substitute one at a time, each black mounting screw. You know it’s worked when the inner assembly and outer motor, click into place. See photo showing 2 brown 3.5” deck screws in place, plus the one black screw installed. Using a long blade screwdriver in the gap to better wriggle the inner door motor assembly into position (not shown in any photo), also helped.



The tweeter connection wiring was a challenge, due to the restricted work space, once the protected wiring sheath, was slowly/carefully cut through to expose the wiring. Below is a photo showing the razer-edged cutting tool I used and the “medical clamp” which came in handy to pull away pieces of the cut protective wiring sheath and grab the wires. I had purchased connectors used by others but ultimately used small blue-size wireguards (some call them marrettes; not shown in any photo) to join the old with new wires. Choose whatever works best for you, although some may correctly point out the wireguards/marrettes aren’t waterproof. I wrapped the new connections with regular vinyl electrical tape, followed by cloth electrical tape over everything to avoid any rattles from vibrating wiring hitting any of the harder interior surfaces.



For the driver-side door (left-hand steering) I spliced into the (solid) purple wire and the blue/white wire, ID’d by others. They were found intertwined together, as shown in the attached photo. For new info, the purple wire is the negative one, that you attach to the negative black-lined Alpine tweeter speaker wire. That leaves the blue/white having positive polarity. I may post other tips and photos as the job progresses. I plan to ID the polarity of the passenger side speaker wiring (yellow/white vs purple/green), once I figure it out. Hope this helps.

 

[Rapture]

I’m just finishing my driver side door: insulation and Alpine tweeter. First time I’ve ever done these mods. I owe it all to others who started and contributed to this thread (THANKS!!). I’ll post a few comments, in case it helps others who take on these tasks.

For those of you with a service manual, the obvious reference pages to take apart the door are 15-10 and 15-11. The not so obvious pages are 11-12 and 11-13. Those latter pages explain the trick of pushing the rubber grommets (followed by all disconnected wiring) into the inner door. They also mention disengaging 2 clips, whereas there were a lot more clips: the wiring had to be detached from all.

First off, be prepared to devote ++ time. The sound deadening install is a very tedious/detailed job. I used a combo of “rubber-backed”/foil/adhesive material (Hushmat brand) and foam/adhesive material (generic brand from Amazon). Here’s 2 photos: one showing the inside of the driver door, and the other the cabin-facing inner door card, as finished.

View attachment 61917

View attachment 61918

Reassembling the door, it was a !#\! pain in the butt, to reinstall the 3-screw window motor. I finally made it work, using 3.5” deck screws, to reach further in and snag each of the 3 white plastic inner ends (that the black screws go into), to pull the inner half of the door window assembly close enough, to carefully substitute one at a time, each black mounting screw. You know it’s worked when the inner assembly and outer motor, click into place. See photo showing 2 brown 3.5” deck screws in place, plus the one black screw installed. Using a long blade screwdriver in the gap to better wriggle the inner door motor assembly into position, also helped.

View attachment 61919

The tweeter connection wiring was a challenge, due to the restricted work space, once the protected wiring sheath, was slowly/carefully cut through to expose the wiring. Below is a photo showing the razer-edged cutting tool I used and the “medical clamp” which came in handy to pull away pieces of the cut protective wiring sheath and grab the wires. I had purchased connectors used by others but ultimately used small blue-size wireguards to join the old with new wires. Choose whatever works best for you, although some may correctly point out the wireguards aren’t waterproof.

View attachment 61922

For the driver-side door (left-hand steering) I spliced into the (solid) purple wire and the blue/white wire, ID’d by others. They were found intertwined together, as shown in the attached photo. For new info, the purple wire is the negative one, that you attach to the negative black-lined Alpine tweeter speaker wire. I may post other tips and photos as the job progresses. Hope this helps.

View attachment 61923

Nice job. Good advice on using those longer screws to pull the window regulator in and then install the stock screws. That was the hardest part for me.