Oil changes on a V6 Emira

Speedy Emira

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Firstly I did try searching this topic but kept getting a security message and no results.

Firstly am I correct in thinking we need a 0-40 fully synthetic oil for the V6 and does anyone have preferences on the brand/type?

I read Mobile 1 was good but when I read below it states not suitable for a diesel or petrol car with a particulate filter system. This is where it’s confusing because I’ve seen Lotus literature for different countries calling the main exhaust filter a cat , GPF or OPF. My view is it is as a lot on here feel is a third cat and therefore would it be suitable to use this oil or not? I was surprised it would matter either way if the piston rings don’t let so much oil bypsss that it could damage anything.

 
The manual says:
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Emira V6 Engine
Approved Product: Total Quartz 9000 Energy
Viscosity / Quality Standard: SAE 0W/40 / API SN: ACEA A3/B4

So I would start there and do comparisons with other makes if you want to change brand otherwise stick to the recommended.
Are you doing your own oil change or is it just for top ups?
 
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The manual says:
Recommended Fluids and Lubricants Emira V6 Engine
Approved Product: Total Quartz 9000 Energy
Viscosity / Quality Standard: SAE 0W/40 / API SN: ACEA A3/B4

So I would start there and do comparisons with other makes if you want to change brand otherwise stick to the recommended.
Are you doing your own oil change or is it just for top ups?
I will take it for its Lotus services but will probably do a couple of additional oil changes a year myself if I can find a way to get the space underneath.
 
Firstly I did try searching this topic but kept getting a security message and no results.

Firstly am I correct in thinking we need a 0-40 fully synthetic oil for the V6 and does anyone have preferences on the brand/type?

I read Mobile 1 was good but when I read below it states not suitable for a diesel or petrol car with a particulate filter system. This is where it’s confusing because I’ve seen Lotus literature for different countries calling the main exhaust filter a cat , GPF or OPF. My view is it is as a lot on here feel is a third cat and therefore would it be suitable to use this oil or not? I was surprised it would matter either way if the piston rings don’t let so much oil bypsss that it could damage anything.

V6: The oil would be fine for the Emira, pick any oil you want and check the level and change it regularly. We don’t have an OPF or GPF, just two primary cats for each bank integrated into the manifolds and a third cat after the Y pipe.
 
A Dyno after drivetrain fluid changes was my understanding.
The main oils I'm looking for improvements on are for the trans and diff. The engine as-is from the factory is putting out 400 hp at the crank, so most of the drivetrain loss has to be coming from what's connecting the engine to the rear wheels, which is trans and diff. The few dyno charts I've seen posted show power to the rear wheels at about 352 hp, which is a loss of 48 hp or 12%. I'm looking to improve that by about 2% which would free up around 7 hp to the rear wheels.

So far it doesn't appear that there's much to be gained with engine oil. I'm looking at one or two possibilities, but I want to contact the companies first and get their input on it.

As soon as I'm past the 1,000 mile break-in period, I want to get a baseline dyno stock as a reference. Then I'll change the gear oils, and get another dyno run to see what difference there is if any. After that will be lighter wheels, although depending on what I get charged for the dyno runs, I may or may not get one after the wheels have been changed. There should be a slight improvement since the lighter rear wheels remove over 6 lbs each, which is about 13 lbs total for both sides, so they will spin up quicker than the stock wheels.

Depending on what the results are for the Eventuri intake system, I may add that next and definitely get another dyno for that one. Either before or after that, depending on the results and availability of the Eventuri, I'll be looking at wheel bearings. I've found a ceramic wheel bearing replacement for steel tapered roller bearings that looks promising. Just need to find out the cost.
 
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The main oils I'm looking for improvements on are for the trans and diff. The engine as-is from the factory is putting out 400 hp at the crank, so most of the drivetrain loss has to be coming from what's connecting the engine to the rear wheels, which is trans and diff. The few dyno charts I've seen posted show power to the rear wheels at about 352 hp, which is a loss of 48 hp or 12%. I'm looking to improve that by about 2% which would free up around 7 hp to the rear wheels.

So far it doesn't appear that there's much to be gained with engine oil. I'm looking at one or two possibilities, but I want to contact the companies first and get their input on it.

As soon as I'm past the 1,000 mile break-in period, I want to get a baseline dyno stock as a reference. Then I'll change the gear oils, and get another dyno run to see what difference there is if any. After that will be lighter wheels, although depending on what I get charged for the dyno runs, I may or may not get one after the wheels have been changed. There should be a slight improvement since the lighter rear wheels remove over 6 lbs each, which is about 13 lbs total for both sides, so they will spin up quicker than the stock wheels.

Depending on what the results are for the Eventuri intake system, I may add that next and definitely get another dyno for that one. Either before or after that, depending on the results and availability of the Eventuri, I'll be looking at wheel bearings. I've found a ceramic wheel bearing replacement for steel tapered roller bearings that looks promising. Just need to find out the cost.
I’d be interested in knowing what oil you are thinking of using for the gearbox. I’m going to change the oil on my first year service in March. I’m a big fan of extra oil changes to make everything run better and last longer.
Which wheels did you decide to get? I’m looking into this at the moment and I’m putting a spreadsheet together this week with all the available wheel options I can find with weights and prices. I’m already bringing up some big discrepancies which I will share soon.
I’ve never gone down the wheel bearing route but again interested in seeing if it makes a difference.
CC brake discs could still be a possibility for you.
 
I’d be interested in knowing what oil you are thinking of using for the gearbox. I’m going to change the oil on my first year service in March. I’m a big fan of extra oil changes to make everything run better and last longer.
Which wheels did you decide to get? I’m looking into this at the moment and I’m putting a spreadsheet together this week with all the available wheel options I can find with weights and prices. I’m already bringing up some big discrepancies which I will share soon.
I’ve never gone down the wheel bearing route but again interested in seeing if it makes a difference.
CC brake discs could still be a possibility for you.
So far I'm looking at Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil.

For wheels I'm going to see what Aerie can do for something similar to the Brixton Forged TR07 wheel.
 
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So far I'm looking at Red Line MT-90 75W90 GL-4 Gear Oil.

For wheels I'm going to see what Aerie can do for something similar to the Brixton Forged TR07 wheel.
Great choice, I have to say so far on my wheel data Aerie are on top having one of the lightest wheels at a way better price. JUBU and Komotec are charging far too much for the specs offered.
 
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The Dutch Lotus importer Van Der Kooi who has extensive racing experiences with Lotus uses always 10W60; also for my Evora V6 engine oil change. This grade was also advised by Lotus for the Esprit after that is was available on the market between 1990 and 2000 whereas Lotus initially avised (old) 20W50 for the Esprit......
 
I plan on Mobil1 0w-40 Euro.

Some useful info I've started gathering on V6.

Capacity: 6.4 quarts. Manual says 6L (6.34 qts)
Oil drain plug. 29.5 ft lbs. (40N*M)
Oil filter: V6 Camry filter will 'fit'. What are Evora guys using?
Is it the standard Toyota crush washer as well?
 
Oil filter: V6 Camry filter will 'fit'. What are Evora guys using?

TRD filters seem to be the favorite due to their metal end caps, but I believe they've recently been discontinued and pretty tough to find. Some eBay sellers have them for ~$30 still though.

After a rediculous amount of research (forums, filter teardown videos, UOA charts, etc), I went the <$10 K&N route for my Evora GT and also have a Fram Tough Guard and Mobil 1 on deck. I ordered all 3 to compare in person. Honestly, they all look great and come with new o rings and the plastic tool to easily drain the filter housing oil. Just buy whatever is available and under $10.

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Capacity: 6.4 quarts. Manual says 6L (6.34 qts)

This capacity should include the oil cooler and lines too, which won't be drained during normal oil changes. For instance, I upgrade to the larger 6.25 qt capacity Moroso oil pan and it took 6.25 qts to fill (and that was with me completely pulling the stock pan). Typically there will be some oil left in the pan. So I guess the manuals noted capacity includes oil cooler and lines, while the listed Moroso capacity is just for the pan.

Also, FWIW, our dipsticks kinda suck. Unless they changed them for the Emira.. There are no hash marks in the metal so it's difficult to get a clear reading with clean oil on it. I plan to pull mine out and hammer a metal file against it or something to make some marks for the oil to hold onto for easier readings in the future.
 
This capacity should include the oil cooler and lines too, which won't be drained during normal oil changes. For instance, I upgrade to the larger 6.25 qt capacity Moroso oil pan and it took 6.25 qts to fill (and that was with me completely pulling the stock pan). Typically there will be some oil left in the pan. So I guess the manuals noted capacity includes oil cooler and lines, while the listed Moroso capacity is just for the pan.

Also, FWIW, our dipsticks kinda suck. Unless they changed them for the Emira.. There are no hash marks in the metal so it's difficult to get a clear reading with clean oil on it. I plan to pull mine out and hammer a metal file against it or something to make some marks for the oil to hold onto for easier readings in the future.

Sounds like a good plan to measure this out.

Wait till you find out what the dipstick for the transmission/diff is like :D
 
I posted this last year as an oil change reference for the V6…

 

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