DIY - Oil Change Reference for 2GR-FE

I'm about to do my 1st break in oil change at 1k mile.... I looked at the filler port on to n I'm wandering if I can access the filler hole just thru the removal of that one small cover.... I plan on using the same set up as above.... putting the angled funnel into the clear plexiglass screw in into the oil filler hole... but to do this, can I do this just thru the small opening OR do I need to remove the whole cover ?? Please advise. ...
 

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I'm about to do my 1st break in oil change at 1k mile.... I looked at the filler port on to n I'm wandering if I can access the filler hole just thru the removal of that one small cover.... I plan on using the same set up as above.... putting the angled funnel into the clear plexiglass screw in into the oil filler hole... but to do this, can I do this just thru the small opening OR do I need to remove the whole cover ?? Please advise. ...
I can't answer your question, since I automatically removed both engine covers (front then back). That said, I don't think it worth it, to leave the cover on. The covers are easily removed and put back into place. I'd also worry about oil drips and not seeing them, with your view blocked by a cover. Let us know how you make out and good luck!
 
You need to remove the whole cover. I used the lisle angle funnel and removed the rubber grommet closest to where the funnel sits and then used the hole to secure a plastic zip tie to. (I wrapped the zip tie around the funnel so it wouldn’t move when I was adding the oil.) I attached a pic. You can’t see the wire tie but you can see the hole from where I removed the grommet. Also you can get away with just removing the one panel but you need to pop both sides of the back one first as it overlaps the front one.
 

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Ok... uh....these panels...I didn't see any screws or plastic grommets... how do you remove the front panel ? What motion to remove them ? The side narrow inserts can stay in ?

Yah, I looked there and was like.... how TF am I gonna get in there....😆

Also. What is the refill amount with filter change ? Dump all 6 qts ??

Tnx guys for your help....
 
Ok... uh....these panels...I didn't see any screws or plastic grommets... how do you remove the front panel ? What motion to remove them ? The side narrow inserts can stay in ?

Yah, I looked there and was like.... how TF am I gonna get in there....😆

Also. What is the refill amount with filter change ? Dump all 6 qts ??

Tnx guys for your help....
It's six liters, not quarts.
 
Ok... uh....these panels...I didn't see any screws or plastic grommets... how do you remove the front panel ? What motion to remove them ? The side narrow inserts can stay in ?

Yah, I looked there and was like.... how TF am I gonna get in there....😆

Also. What is the refill amount with filter change ? Dump all 6 qts ??

Tnx guys for your help....
The panels are held in with pressure fittings. Lift straight up.

Screenshot_20240728-063614.png
 
Ok.... so, in practicality, if I let it sit for about 30 min or so, I wander what most people are putting back in for adequate refill ? 6 "quarts" should be good enough/ sufficient ?
Yes - 6 Liters is about 6.3 quarts.
 
The oil you linked has the certifications required by the manual: ACEA A3/B4, API SN

Whatever your dealer is feeding you sounds like bullshit. Let them know a recommended list is not a requirement.
Dealer replied:

It should be find if it has one of the following approvals:

VW 502 /505 /505 01 | Mercedes-Benz 229.51 | BMW Longlife-04 | Porsche A40

ACEA C3 | API SN | Ford WSS-M2C917-A.
 
Ok... did my 1st oil at 950 miles.... the oil was almost new.... not dark even at all.... I decided not to put in the ceramic moly...cause I don't think the engine is quite broken in even...lol...

I did put a magnet drain plug tho....
 

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Ok... did my 1st oil at 950 miles.... the oil was almost new.... not dark even at all.... I decided not to put in the ceramic moly...cause I don't think the engine is quite broken in even...lol...

I did put a magnet drain plug tho....
What magnetic drain plug are you using?
 
Ok... did my 1st oil at 950 miles.... the oil was almost new.... not dark even at all.... I decided not to put in the ceramic moly...cause I don't think the engine is quite broken in even...lol...

I did put a magnet drain plug tho....
Just something to consider before using oil additives

 
What magnetic drain plug are you using?
it was off amazon.....
M12x1.25 magnetic oil drain plug 7075
they come in different colors
i think the 1.25 size is ideal for the emira

sorry i couldn't just put a direct link...not too savvy on that stuff....
 

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Just something to consider before using oil additives

good info.... it looks like ceratec was one of the least harmful ....lol.... did add some moly so...
i did notice the older cars get a bit more smoother and quieter on adding it...

what I really liked the best in the past was a very high concentration PTFE product that a co in san bern , ca (taylor enterprises , in to 1990 to 2000 ) used to sell..... that one was amazing..... it coated the engine parts so well that their demo was to treat the engine and then empty the oil and run the car w/o oil.... lol
it was highly effective in diesel motors too....sealed and filled cylinder walls to the point compression would go up even...
it is unfortunately not available anymore....i think ProLong has some PTFE but the issue is ....what carrier are they using to dilute the PTFE in.... wjhen i put it in my honda accord, i could tell that the car would take additional few minutes to warm up.... (presumably from decr'd friction ... )
anyway....imo, like anything manufactured, most of the products CAN be improved from original maker.... that's just obvious...otherwise, none of use will be modifying our cars, etc.... SO, similar stuff applies to engine oil too IMO....albeit, as the video shows , most are voodoo and actually harmful....
Good Info/video.... thank you.
 
Finally got them in from lotus. My question does anyone know why these pieces are removable? Is it when you take it to the track maybe?
Eh... technically, all parts of a car are removable, right? Based on what I can see, it's there to provide some longitudinal connection between the metal tray and the plastic undertray. Maybe there is some flapping action that needs to be controlled at speed? The car does generate significant under car air flow.
 
Eh... technically, all parts of a car are removable, right? Based on what I can see, it's there to provide some longitudinal connection between the metal tray and the plastic undertray. Maybe there is some flapping action that needs to be controlled at speed? The car does generate significant under car air flow.
Yeah I’ve been driving the car with these off since I picked it up and it’s great. I’ll see if there is any difference once I install them on. I doubt I will be able to feel it will see
 

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