Yes as indicated in my prior post # 59 on this thread: you can purchase the OEM Emira “Total Energy” oil in Canada, although it’s made in France. I paid a wholesaler about Can$10/litre (quart?), which looks to be a good price, but I bought 5 cases.
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DIY - Oil Change Reference for 2GR-FE
- Thread starter DaaS
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Yes as indicated in my prior post # 59 on this thread: you can purchase the OEM Emira “Total Energy” oil in Canada, although it’s made in France. I paid a wholesaler about Can$10/litre (quart?), which looks to be a good price, but I bought 5 cases.
As promised. It took them a month to get to it but interested to compare this to others.
<200 miles until I join you. More data!!!
Thanks FlyNavy01 for sharing. This being my first "oil report", I'm wondering if you can answer a few questions:
1. the oil came from your Emira, after putting 702 miles on the engine. Given the results, are you happy waiting to change the oil after that mileage or do you think you should have done it sooner...or later? Or perhaps you won't know until seeing a bunch of other Emira first oil change reports?
2. the "comments" section suggests that the "universal averages" come from this same type of Toyota V6 engine oil, rather than (for example) all ICE engines. And after 6,700 miles of use on that "average" engine? Is that all correct? But is that for any type of oil...whereas this Total Energy may have a different composition that other oils, which could throw out the comparison results?
3. molybdenum looks to be a fuel economy additive. I'm surprised it's higher than normal, since the Emira fuel economy looks to be "non-existent" (it burns fuel at a high rate, for a V6, which others have said and I agree, now that I'm filling up my Emira) and perhaps that doesn't bode well . I'd hate to think what the Emira mileage would be w/o this extra fuel additive and assume that's simply a component of the Total Energy oil, or am I looking at this the right way?
4. finally, what's the difference between the 2 kinds of viscosity?
Perhaps I'm asking for "an education" and can get all this by looking on the Web? I leave it to you if you choose to respond to my ignorance but I'd appreciate learning from your wisdom.
It's my first as well, but there's a lot you can learn from various oil geeks on YouTube and elsewhere if you want to deep dive. I was mostly interested in wear metals from the engine. I'll do my best to answer, but others on here are certainly more knowledgeable.
1) I changed my oil around 700 miles mostly because I planned to start gradually revving it beyond the 4k RPM break-in engine speed at that point and I wanted fresh oil for that. I also wanted to get my exhaust valve installed while under there. I'd be totally fine with any mileage between 500-1500 personally, as I've heard most break-in happens in the first ~500 or so miles.
2) The additive/detergent composition will change between oil types, but the wear metal content suspended in it is more specific to the engine and it's wear characteristics.
3) Molybdenum is mostly used as a friction modifier but I'm not well versed enough beyond that to speak to any higher level.
4) The 2 viscosities are just different measurement methods at different temperatures. I don't know much other than the factory oil seems to be slightly lower viscosity on average compared similar oils of the same weight. This aligns with other Emira oil reports I've seen.
Hope this helps!
Last edited:
crashprash
Emira Fan
From my dealer:
Re oil, you can supply your own oil and magnetic plug if you like.
However, if anything happens with the engine, Lotus will ask for an oil sample and if it not in their ‘recommended’ list or does not have the approvals, it may not be covered by warranty.
Have asked them what the 'recommended' list is. Was planning to use this oil
Re oil, you can supply your own oil and magnetic plug if you like.
However, if anything happens with the engine, Lotus will ask for an oil sample and if it not in their ‘recommended’ list or does not have the approvals, it may not be covered by warranty.
Have asked them what the 'recommended' list is. Was planning to use this oil
The oil you linked has the certifications required by the manual: ACEA A3/B4, API SN
Whatever your dealer is feeding you sounds like bullshit. Let them know a recommended list is not a requirement.
I'm planning on doing my own oil changes moving forward just to ensure that no shop is destroying the underside of my car every time they unbolt the underpan and that they're putting actually good oil, but I just realized that DIY servicing won't be recorded on the carfax. Carfax says you can manually add one but it would only be visible to you and won't show up if a dealer looks up the carfax.
My question is, how are people documenting their DIY oil changes, specifically for purposes like warranty claims or when you sell the vehicle? Is there anything more official than keeping receipts for the oil you bought and manually writing down a record on the service booklet?
My question is, how are people documenting their DIY oil changes, specifically for purposes like warranty claims or when you sell the vehicle? Is there anything more official than keeping receipts for the oil you bought and manually writing down a record on the service booklet?
Is the Penzoil ultra platinum synthetic 0w-40 also those things? I don't see that on the label.
PUP 0W40 is an API SP which provides full protection of API SN oils.
It is not however ACEA A3/B4 which is a European standard primarily dealing with emissions and interval changes. I think most interpretations of the Emira owners manual are that an approved oil needs to be either ACEA A3/B4 or API SN. I'm sure some might disagree, in this case these people could use Mobile 1 FS 0W40 which is readily available.
I keep a spreadsheet log with dates, photo documentation of mileage, and receipts of purchases that go with the maintenance.
I use the the carfax app to track my maintenance. When you choose DIY, it does not go on the public record but it is all in one place on the app to easily find. In the app, I upload the receipts for the purchases as well for proof. I also send all my oil samples to blackstone for analysis. They are great to have if you do ever sell.
Looks good! Matches my report very closely which was at about 850 miles. High copper and silicon, low viscosity.
Pretty typical for break-in wear on this type of engine. Good move to swap to fresh oil based on the viscosity drop.
First DIY oil/filter change at 1850 km. My thanks to everyone posting above on this thread. I referred to everyone’s advice.
I backed onto my usual ramp system, which increased the gap below the car, by 1.5”, over the gap created using just the black ramps.
I don’t recommend this system for a mid-engine vehicle. It raises the Emira too high, so I had to get in the trunk to access the oil filler and dipstick, which was awkward. I have a 4-post lift but once my winter car is parked on top, I don’t use it for servicing. I’ll likely change that practice in future, to change the Emira oil. IMO, just using the ramps alone, would be too difficult (not roomy enough) trying to work under the Emira, with all the protective under plate bolts that have to come out.
I used a 14mm wrench to remove the drain plug, which for me worked better than a ratchet. Like others, getting the washer off the drain pan, was a challenge. But perseverance with a small flat head screwdriver, did the trick.
The bolts are 7mm, 10mm (sockets) and for the diffuser smaller bolts, I used a 4mm hex bit.
Not all bolts on the diffuser have to be removed. Someone mentioned removing only the bolts on the aluminum plate next to the diffuser (silver plate closer to the front), and none from the black diffuser, but I didn’t think that possible. After removing all the aluminum plate bolts and the bolts in common to both the aluminum plate and the diffuser (on the edge where they join), you need to remove 2 smaller 4mm bolts, which are on the next row (from the aluminum plate/diffuser edge, so the row closer to the rear of the vehicle) on the diffuser itself. These 2 bolts secure the diffuser tightly to the underbody and if left in, prevent you from dropping down the diffuser edge far enough, to wiggle the aluminum plate out. At least that’s how it worked for me. The 2 bolts to remove, are the second ones in from the edge, on each side. See photos showing them removed on each side:
I removed nineteen 10mm bolts (3 of them found below 1.5” rubber grommets), fourteen 7mm bolts/washers, and two 4mm bolts/washers. I actually removed more 4mm bolts/washers in the beginning, until I figured out only 2 were necessary, so I put the others back in before buttoning everything up.
This photo shows what I felt necessary to remove (bolts/grommets):
I plugged in a tube to the oil filter housing, planning to drain most of the oil out of the filter before removing it entirely (avoiding a drippy mess). BUT it didn’t work well for me so there was still a fair bit of oil left in the filter. The photos below show the tube; the first with the threaded bottom in the “off position” and showing the filter wrench I used, and the second with it threaded up, to open the valve and allow drainage from the filter:
Figuring out the amount of oil to put in was fun. The Service Manual p. 40-68 states: “service full volume 5 litres; dry fill volume 6 litres”. That’s litres and NOT US quarts, with 6 US quarts equaling 5.6781 litres. So presumably only 5 litres (just over 5 quarts) is needed. That’s far less than the 6 US quarts others mentioned putting in. Anyway, after parking my vehicle for an hour (not ideal I know, but I left my garage to find a level spot), I put in just under 5.3 litres, which brought the oil level to 3/4 up the 2 marks on the dipstick (I put in just under 5 litres in my garage, then later slowly topped up the rest). It may be that having the Emira up so high on my ramp system, prevented oil from draining. I put in the same new oil, compared to what came out. But the Service Manual says what it says. I suppose getting to the very top of the fill level, may have been 6 US quarts, which looks to disagree with the Service Manual.
One has to be careful trying to read the oil on the dipstick, since it’s such a light/clear oil when new.
For the oil funnel, I used a combo: the Lisle right angle funnel, inserted into the Toyota threaded tube end, which I screwed onto the engine oil filler. It worked great and I could prop up and drain a 5 litre plastic oil container, into the Lisle, by putting the container against the rear window glass. Photo below shows the Lisle and the threaded end used. It also shows the original blue funnel that came attached to the threaded end. It wasn’t usuable since it stuck up too high and hit the glass window.
Hope this adds to the discussion and is helpful.
I backed onto my usual ramp system, which increased the gap below the car, by 1.5”, over the gap created using just the black ramps.
I don’t recommend this system for a mid-engine vehicle. It raises the Emira too high, so I had to get in the trunk to access the oil filler and dipstick, which was awkward. I have a 4-post lift but once my winter car is parked on top, I don’t use it for servicing. I’ll likely change that practice in future, to change the Emira oil. IMO, just using the ramps alone, would be too difficult (not roomy enough) trying to work under the Emira, with all the protective under plate bolts that have to come out.
I used a 14mm wrench to remove the drain plug, which for me worked better than a ratchet. Like others, getting the washer off the drain pan, was a challenge. But perseverance with a small flat head screwdriver, did the trick.
The bolts are 7mm, 10mm (sockets) and for the diffuser smaller bolts, I used a 4mm hex bit.
Not all bolts on the diffuser have to be removed. Someone mentioned removing only the bolts on the aluminum plate next to the diffuser (silver plate closer to the front), and none from the black diffuser, but I didn’t think that possible. After removing all the aluminum plate bolts and the bolts in common to both the aluminum plate and the diffuser (on the edge where they join), you need to remove 2 smaller 4mm bolts, which are on the next row (from the aluminum plate/diffuser edge, so the row closer to the rear of the vehicle) on the diffuser itself. These 2 bolts secure the diffuser tightly to the underbody and if left in, prevent you from dropping down the diffuser edge far enough, to wiggle the aluminum plate out. At least that’s how it worked for me. The 2 bolts to remove, are the second ones in from the edge, on each side. See photos showing them removed on each side:
I removed nineteen 10mm bolts (3 of them found below 1.5” rubber grommets), fourteen 7mm bolts/washers, and two 4mm bolts/washers. I actually removed more 4mm bolts/washers in the beginning, until I figured out only 2 were necessary, so I put the others back in before buttoning everything up.
This photo shows what I felt necessary to remove (bolts/grommets):
I plugged in a tube to the oil filter housing, planning to drain most of the oil out of the filter before removing it entirely (avoiding a drippy mess). BUT it didn’t work well for me so there was still a fair bit of oil left in the filter. The photos below show the tube; the first with the threaded bottom in the “off position” and showing the filter wrench I used, and the second with it threaded up, to open the valve and allow drainage from the filter:
Figuring out the amount of oil to put in was fun. The Service Manual p. 40-68 states: “service full volume 5 litres; dry fill volume 6 litres”. That’s litres and NOT US quarts, with 6 US quarts equaling 5.6781 litres. So presumably only 5 litres (just over 5 quarts) is needed. That’s far less than the 6 US quarts others mentioned putting in. Anyway, after parking my vehicle for an hour (not ideal I know, but I left my garage to find a level spot), I put in just under 5.3 litres, which brought the oil level to 3/4 up the 2 marks on the dipstick (I put in just under 5 litres in my garage, then later slowly topped up the rest). It may be that having the Emira up so high on my ramp system, prevented oil from draining. I put in the same new oil, compared to what came out. But the Service Manual says what it says. I suppose getting to the very top of the fill level, may have been 6 US quarts, which looks to disagree with the Service Manual.
One has to be careful trying to read the oil on the dipstick, since it’s such a light/clear oil when new.
For the oil funnel, I used a combo: the Lisle right angle funnel, inserted into the Toyota threaded tube end, which I screwed onto the engine oil filler. It worked great and I could prop up and drain a 5 litre plastic oil container, into the Lisle, by putting the container against the rear window glass. Photo below shows the Lisle and the threaded end used. It also shows the original blue funnel that came attached to the threaded end. It wasn’t usuable since it stuck up too high and hit the glass window.
Hope this adds to the discussion and is helpful.
Last edited:
Sandalwood
Emira Fan
This
Why lotus couldn't add an access panel for oil changes is beyond me.
The under tray is such a pain in the d*ick!
I had the same experience with my Elise. It was a nightmare to remove that tray, and two nightmares to reinstall it. If my Emira ever shows up, I'm sure I will relive the joys all over again.
Got my break in oil change analysis back today from Blackstone. Took 12 business days so not too bad. Based upon their comments, looks like all is ok.
Lotus could take a lesson from GM: the C8 Corvette has a similar "completely covered" underbody, however there's a hole immediately below the oil filter and another smaller one, immediately below the oil pan drain plug, allowing immediate/unobstructed access for oil/filter changes. Neither are covered with a removable rubber "grommet". The low cost of a C8 oil/filter change and other service work, was one thing GM trumpeted and compared to what it cost to maintain vehicles manufactured by others, with similar performance specs (ie. Porsche, Ferrari). Neither C8 holes are large and the amount of road debris/moisture entering, is minimal...not that the Emira underbody is completely bullet-proof/sealed, anyway. I had small rocks/grit falling on me, as I loosened or removed panels. Both the C8 and Lotus, were designed with track usage in mind.
That said, my Mercedes E550 requires an under tray removal, with 3 different (!) bolt types...and one of them "hidden" in a boxed-in hard plastic cage of sorts, making access to that one "bolt system" +++ difficult and this was definitely done on purpose, to discourage DIY's like me. On my second Mercedes oil change, I simply cut the plastic cage off and regretted not doing it the first time. My spouse's Volkswagen Atlas requires an under tray removal as well, for each oil/filter change. Same thing with my past BMW's. So what Lotus has done, isn't uncommon...but there is a better way IMO that will save ++ time/hassle.
Does anyone from Lotus ever read this Forum? I know the Corvette design engineers followed the Corvette Forums and some of the postings, resulted in modifications to the C8. That said, Lotus may want to "force" people to do service work at dealerships. However especially in North America, this will likely result in a lot of Emira owners located far from a dealership finding a local shop familiar with British cars. If I didn't do my own work, that's what I'd do to avoid a 6 hour round-trip drive to my nearest Lotus dealership. My City of about 1 million people, has at least 2 repair shops ++ familiar with British imports and both have a good reputation.
Regardless, you'll always have people motivated to save money, who'll take their business elsewhere and not to the more expensive Lotus dealerships; moreso these days when many are informed enough to realize their warranty isn't voided if they get the work done elsewhere.
With the Emira supposedly the last of the Lotus ICE vehicles, I suppose any thought of creating openings in the under tray, is complete pie-in-the-sky. Sorry you future Emira owners, being "stuck" with a great vehicle with difficult oil/filter changes. One easy answer as I mentioned in my post above, is having a 4-post lift, that makes this work far easier...but that comes with its own cost and space issues.
As @Anothernimbus shared above, a history of Used Oil Analysis results is the best thing you can keep with the car, in my opinion. Far, far better than Carfax showing that Technician Snuffy poured something in somewhere....
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