Running in procedure

[VL3X]

Yes, it is entirely state dependent. One thing to remember, servicing an EV is a completely different animal than an ICE vehicle. There are a lot of things the mobile service cannot do with Tesla. You have to bring it into one of their centers for any major work / issues. I imagine that list would get even longer with an ICE vehicle.

Don’t get me wrong, I feel for those who live hundreds of miles from a dealer. I’m lucky to have one 60 miles West or 80 miles North and I do all my own maintenance so I’ll only need them for warranty repairs.

Avoiding one 24 month service on my Porsche’s paid for this setup.

View attachment 4023

That scares me... doesn't look like that lift is bolted to the floor and it's on rollers!?

 

[mjw930]

That scares me... doesn't look like that lift is bolted to the floor and it's on rollers!?

It’s a standard portable scissor lift rated to 6600 lbs. The rollers are only on the rear section since the scissor action relies on the part moving back and forth. It’s very stable but requires a flat surface, which isn’t a problem for 99% of the garages in the US. This one is a Titan lift, one of the best in this style. It’s every bit as safe as a bolted down 2 post lift though it does block the tunnel area, which isn’t really a problem on a mid/rear engine layout.

If I decide to keep the Spyder I’ll probably install one of these and sell the scissor lift.

 

[VL3X]

It’s a standard portable scissor lift rated to 6600 lbs. The rollers are only on the rear section since the scissor action relies on the part moving back and forth. It’s very stable but requires a flat surface, which isn’t a problem for 99% of the garages in the US. This one is a Titan lift, one of the best in this style. It’s every bit as safe as a bolted down 2 post lift though it does block the tunnel area, which isn’t really a problem on a mid/rear engine layout.

If I decide to keep the Spyder I’ll probably install one of these and sell the scissor lift.

View attachment 4030

I need something more like this.. My 1 car detached garage is tiny. It'll fit the Emira, but I'd like to have both my Emira and daily driver parked in there if possible. How much do these run? $4-5k?

 

[mjw930]

I need something more like this.. My 1 car detached garage is tiny. It'll fit the Emira, but I'd like to have both my Emira and daily driver parked in there if possible. How much do these run? $4-5k?

Figure $4k-$6k for a good one. Most are now made in China but if you stick with BendPac, Rotary or Backyard Buddy (made in USA) you’re good to go.

 

[Bobgriff100]

So if you're lucky enough to pick it up from Hethel, and they let you out on the track, what you going to do??

It is a trick to make you invalidate your warranty. Will save lotus a fortune

 

[ksegg]

This was posted before, but buried on another thread so pasting it here.

For the V6 it should be the same as the V6 Evora so 1,000 miles to the first inspection and oil change, with the first 600 miles below 4,000rpm. This from the Evora handbook:

Running-In

Although the Evora powertrain is built to close tolerances using modern technology, the progressive and sympathetic running-in (or bedding-in) of a new engine and transmission, remains a valuable contributor to achieving the highest levels of efficiency, durability, smooth operation and economic performance. By following the simple guidelines described below, a solid foundation will be built for the car's lifetime career.

NOTICE

Failure to comply with the following running-in provisions could invalidate the terms of the New Vehicle Warranty:

Engine: It is important during the car's early life, not to overload the engine, and to control the amount of engine heat generated. This is dependent primarily on throttle opening (accelerator position) and engine speed. However, being too sympathetic on the car will not allow the piston rings to bed in satisfactorily, so a balance of spirited and gentle use is required. For the first 600 miles (1,000 km), use no more than moderate throttle openings (about half of the available accelerator pedal travel) and do not run the engine continuously at engine speeds over 4,000 rpm. Occasional short bursts at wider throttle and higher engine speed will be beneficial, as will a constantly changing cruising speed and making full use of the gearbox. Do not allow the engine to labour in too high a gear ratio; change down and let the engine operate in its natural power band.

After 600 miles (1,000 km) have been covered, full throttle and/or maximum engine speed may be used for short periods, but do not attempt to exploit full vehicle performance until after the first 'After Sales' service has been carried out.

Transmission: Driving pleasure will be enhanced when using a light touch to guide the gear lever, allowing the tactile senses to convey gear selection messages from the internal mechanism. Forcing the change will cause unnecessary wear on system components and impair subsequent gearchange quality.

Brakes: Allow the brakes to bed-in by avoiding needless heavy braking for the first 100 miles (160 km). Thereafter, the first time the brakes are used aggressively, some loss of brake feel may be evident as the brake pads undergo a final conditioning phase. After the brakes have cooled, full brake performance will be restored. Both the brake pedal and gearchange efforts are likely to reduce during the running-in period.

Tyres: New tyres also require a short 'running-in' period before providing optimum grip.

Note that various operating parameters are continuously monitored and recorded in the engine electronic controller. This data may be downloaded by Lotus dealers on demand in order to assist with fault diagnosis and identify any vehicle misuse.

Stopping the Engine

After running the engine at high speed or under heavy load and generating substantial engine heat, if possible before switching off the engine, drive for a short period in a gentler manner, or allow the engine to idle for a few minutes in order for normal temperatures to be resumed. This consideration will reduce the effects of heat soak, and benefit the long term durability of the powertrain.

Most of all have fun with your new car.


And with thanks to @JumboJet, this is from Mercedes A series handbook, so relevant for the AMG i4:
Running-in notes
To preserve the engine during the first 1,500 km:
R Drive at varying road speeds and engine speeds.
R Do not drive at speeds greater than 140 km/h.
R Drive the vehicle in drive program A or ;.
R Shift to the next highest gear at the very lat‐ est when the needle reaches the last third before the red area in the rev counter.
R Donotshiftdownmanuallyinordertobrake.
R Avoidoverstrainingthevehicle,e.g.drivingat full throttle.
R Vehicleswithautomatictransmission:do not depress the accelerator pedal beyond the pressure point (kickdown).
R Only increase the engine speed gradually and accelerate the vehicle to full speed after 1,500 km.
This also applies when the engine or parts of the drivetrain have been replaced.
Please also observe the following running-in notes:
R In certain driving and driving safety systems, the sensors adjust automatically while a cer‐ tain distance is being driven after the vehicle has been delivered or after repairs. Full sys‐ tem effectiveness is not reached until the end of this teach-in process.
R Brakepads, brake disks and tyres that are either new or have been replaced only ach‐ ieve optimum braking effect and grip after several hundred kilometres of driving. Com‐ pensate for the reduced braking effect by applying greater force to the brake pedal.

I had to do this with the M2 Comp when I first got it. It was so annoying, lol.

For the first 1500 miles it felt like I bought an economy car.

But after..........HOOOOO WEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!

 

[emiraspain]

So we have the 2500km engine break in.... (that a LOT and I cant get over this in 2022....). does any other car company apart from Ariel and 1 car/week guys require this? Porsche I think say even with a GT3 you can drive it like u've stolen it... 2500km for some of the new owner demographic will be a year haha.

Moderator edit: copied from first delivery thread and references to running in the audio system removed

 

[Eagle7]

so we have the 2500km engine break in.... (that a LOT and I cant get over this in 2022....). does any other car company apart from Ariel and 1 car/week guys require this? Porsche I think say even with a GT3 you can drive it like u've stolen it... 2500km for some of the new owner demographic will be a year haha.

Things today are built to so much higher standards and tight tolerances than they were before which has something to do with it, but it's also nothing new that moving parts and flexing materials adjust and 'settle-in' as they're used. Even though a lot of the new materials are synthetic now, they're still going to settle-in just like traditional materials. The suspension is going to settle-in, the springs, bushings, etc.

Moderator edit: copied from first delivery thread and references to running in the audio system removed

 

[Magicman]

1500mile run in, are you f**King serious, do you have to run a RAV-4 in??

 

[Leonard]

1500mile run in, are you f**King serious, do you have to run a RAV-4 in??

Amazing write up and share, but this is my take away also
As I may only do 3500 miles and then sell this is yet another consideration.
Interesting to know if Lotus monitor this as 'over revs' and retard your warranty accordingly.
You can be sympathetic without a religious 4k and under..... But I guess that is what happens when the rpm gets dropped below 7000. Got to be some benefits of running a basic Toyota block surely

 

[Magicman]

Amazing write up and share, but this is my take away also
As I may only do 3500 miles and then sell this is yet another consideration.
Interesting to know if Lotus monitor this as 'over revs' and retard your warranty accordingly.
You can be sympathetic without a religious 4k and under..... But I guess that is what happens when the rpm gets dropped below 7000. Got to be some benefits of running a basic Toyota block surely

Yep, I likely won't have run it in before a sell it

 

[TomE]

Running in is explained in the handbook. Here are the relevant pages:

Previously Lotus have recommended an oil change at around 1000 miles and a download of data from the car at the same time. The published Emira maintenance booklet doesn't include space for that stamp, so the requirement may have changed.

There was also a post about it a while ago:

Running in procedure

Do we know what the running in procedure will be for the Emira? I assume similar to that of an Evora or Exige? This might open up a can of worms regarding whether running in is even necessary on modern engines! :ROFLMAO:

www.emiraforum.com

 

[Leonard]

Running in is explained in the handbook. Here are the relevant pages:

View attachment 9415

View attachment 9414

Previously Lotus have recommended an oil change at around 1000 miles and a download of data from the car at the same time. The published Emira maintenance booklet doesn't include space for that stamp, so the requirement may have changed.

There was also a post about it a while ago:

Running in procedure

Do we know what the running in procedure will be for the Emira? I assume similar to that of an Evora or Exige? This might open up a can of worms regarding whether running in is even necessary on modern engines! :ROFLMAO:

www.emiraforum.com

Seems a bit OTT for an unstressed non motorsport inspired motor... But it is what it is I guess!

 

[Magicman]

Running in is explained in the handbook. Here are the relevant pages:

View attachment 9415

View attachment 9414

Previously Lotus have recommended an oil change at around 1000 miles and a download of data from the car at the same time. The published Emira maintenance booklet doesn't include space for that stamp, so the requirement may have changed.

There was also a post about it a while ago:

Running in procedure

Do we know what the running in procedure will be for the Emira? I assume similar to that of an Evora or Exige? This might open up a can of worms regarding whether running in is even necessary on modern engines! :ROFLMAO:

www.emiraforum.com

Brilliant, that's open to a degree of interpretation

 

[Eagle7]

Honestly, some of you seem like you shouldn't even be buying this car lol. Build tolerances on cars nowadays are very tight, much more so than they were before on mass manufactured vehicles. As I assume you know, heat causes materials to expand. The moving parts in an engine actually wear and start losing some of their surface as they do so. This is called wearing or breaking in because that's actually what happens. The surfaces seat against each other as they wear, and since the tolerances are tight to begin with, as they heat up and the materials expand, those tolerances become super tight to the point where they can possibly bind under extreme conditions, especially sudden extreme conditions. Moderate use of the engine and car for a certain number of miles allows all those components to wear-in against each other gradually so once they are worn-in, as they expand under heat they are now within designed tolerance. The amount of material that was worn off during the break-in period is now in the oils and filters, which is why you also want to change the oils and filters after the break-in period.

If this is a car you want to keep, or you're simply considerate enough to want to take care of it for another owner to enjoy after you sell it, just follow the recommended procedure. It really won't take that long.

 

[TomE]

Seems a bit OTT for an unstressed non motorsport inspired motor... But it is what it is I guess!

It's uprated a bit from the original 270hp Camry/Avalon/Aurion application

 

[disgruntled]

Honestly, some of you seem like you shouldn't even be buying this car lol. Build tolerances on cars nowadays are very tight, much more so than they were before on mass manufactured vehicles. As I assume you know, heat causes materials to expand. The moving parts in an engine actually wear and start losing some of their surface as they do so. This is called wearing or breaking in because that's actually what happens. The surfaces seat against each other as they wear, and since the tolerances are tight to begin with, as they heat up and the materials expand, those tolerances become super tight to the point where they can possibly bind under extreme conditions, especially sudden extreme conditions. Moderate use of the engine and car for a certain number of miles allows all those components to wear-in against each other gradually so once they are worn-in, as they expand under heat they are now within designed tolerance. The amount of material that was worn off during the break-in period is now in the oils and filters, which is why you also want to change the oils and filters after the break-in period.

If this is a car you want to keep, or you're simply considerate enough to want to take care of it for another owner to enjoy after you sell it, just follow the recommended procedure. It really won't take that long.

Oh thank goodness you are here then to help state the obvious for us who you think are obviously to dim to understand that without it being explained....... We have all owned cars before you know!, and we are not stupid!

 

[Leonard]

It's uprated a bit from the original 270hp Camry/Avalon/Aurion application

Touche

 

[Leonard]

Oh thank goodness you are here then to help state the obvious for us who you think are obviously to dim to understand that without it being explained....... We have all owned cars before you know!, and we are not stupid!

This /\ It's not the 1970s anymore
My modern 1.6l 3 cylinder turbo charged Yaris engine putting out around 275bhp doesn't even have a break in rev limit:

Breaking in your new Toyota To extend the life of the vehicle, observing the following precautions is recommended: ●For the first 300 km (186 miles): Avoid sudden stops. ●For the first 1000 km (621 miles): • Do not drive at extremely high speeds. • Avoid sudden acceleration. • Do not drive continuously in low gears. • Do not drive at a constant speed for extended periods.

The important bit with breaking in any engine is to avoid constant rpm, which is increasingly difficult if you are limited to 4000rpm for over a 1000 miles!

 

[Citizen]

Leonard and his all-lotus-related-complaining-another day post