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I haven't tested the exact response time vs. the controller but the homelink button works within about a second when holding down the button (as if you were opening or closing a garage)Is the homelink button as fast/responsive as the millet controller ?
There are no buttons on the mirror that could be programmed without the Homelink option fittedCan somebody clarify... do you have to have Homelink optioned on the car, or can the button just be otherwise assigned to do what the fob does? I didn't option Homelink on mine, because I didn't see the point, but this seems more useful than a garage door opener button![]()
Exact same here.Waiting to complete break in before installing my 3rd cat delete and Milltek controller
looking forward getting my installed.
Never drive with the valves forced closed. Risk of engine damage. Even Milltek says this.I have the controller and it’s great especially with the 3rd cat delete.
I drove 140 miles this evening and it was nice to close the valves and listen to music off my Spotify. It was the first time I really listened to music instead of wanting to hear the exhaust and found the sound quality of the Kef pretty good.
sorry I should have said they were closed because I put the controller in oem setting and was in Tour mode. Good shout to point that out though.Never drive with the valves forced closed. Risk of engine damage. Even Milltek says this.
Has anyone tried programming a different remote (eg: a garage opener remote) to replace the milltek remote and omit the valved closed feature?Running with the valve open is transformative, to the extent I removed the aftermarket Y, J and muffler I was running (which were causing CELs) and went back to stock exhaust with the valve controller, and I have no desire to modify it further. Sounds awesome even with the factory 3rd cat.
I suspect the factory muffler is almost a straight pipe when the valve is compeltely open.
One IMPORTANT thing to be aware of with these is that running the valve forced closed can potentially damage the engine due to excessive backpressure. The factory valve is a complex device that varies the amount it opens based on a number of factors, including engine mode, RPM and a load sensor that measures the pressure against the valve in realtime and adjusts the position of the valve accordingly to minimise backpressure whilst maintaining minimum exhaust volume.
By default, the valve returns a P1018 "Valve unable to reach commanded position" fault code and puts the car into limp mode when the valve does not operate correctly, but the Milltek controller overrides this by returning an OK response at all times, so it is removing a layer of protection. I'm not sure if this is the case even in OEM mode or not, however.
I'd highly recommend mapping only the OEM and Open modes to Homelink, and then putting the remote away from the car so theres no chance of running the valve closed accidentally. The difference between "Closed"and "OEM" isn't as obvious as you may think, especially in Tour mode.
Because of this ability to force the valves closed, there are potential warranty implications associated with running this mod.
I hope Milltek release an updated version that omits the "Always Closed" setting as even their own literature states that you SHOULD NOT use this mode.
works with Homelink, so will work with any programmable remote that’s able to read frequencies within the correct range. It’s not a rolling code.Has anyone tried programming a different remote (eg: a garage opener remote) to replace the milltek remote and omit the valved closed feature?
I’m sure someone could do that easily enough because my neighbour had a company change his M5 so it is quiet when entering his road.works with Homelink, so will work with any programmable remote that’s able to read frequencies within the correct range. It’s not a rolling code.
Intercepting with my Flipper Zero, it operates in the 400-500Mhz range.