📓 Journals Adding Lightness

[Rapture]

I don't know where the drain hole is for the transmission, but I'm very interested in your feedback about if it makes the gear change easier during quick shifts based on the transmission fluid you change to.

 

[Eagle7]

I don't know where the drain hole is for the transmission, but I'm very interested in your feedback about if it makes the gear change easier during quick shifts based on the transmission fluid you change to.

I'm pretty sure what I have will do that. I just need to find out how to replace the oil! Since it's the same trans that Evoras had, are there any Evora owners who know where the drain plug and refill hole is? Maybe I can pose this question on Lotustalk, there are a lot of Exige and Evora owners on that forum.

 

[silent cilantro]

Drain plug from an Evora:

Fill port is at the top:

This thread has info on fluid replacement in an Evora, the procedure calls for activation of the trans cooler pump using Lotus software, it’s prob the same for the Emira. Not sure how to do that without it. Maybe just run the car for a few minutes?

 

[kitkat]

If anybody thinks changing the oil at the 1,000 mile mark isn't necessary, here's the oil from my car. This is what's left after almost all the oil was drained out of the drain pan after it drained out of the car. This is zoomed in of course, but those tiny flecks of metal aren't gold.

View attachment 48456

For the prospectors!

Anyone keeping the first engine oil in for 10,000 mi is insane.

 

[Eagle7]

Drain plug from an Evora:

View attachment 48471



Fill port is at the top:

View attachment 48472
View attachment 48473


This thread has info on fluid replacement in an Evora, the procedure calls for activation of the trans cooler pump using Lotus software, it’s prob the same for the Emira. Not sure how to do that without it. Maybe just run the car for a few minutes?

I'll look for that. Uses a crush washer I assume? Is it the same as the engine oil crush washer?

 

[silent cilantro]

It uses a washer but it’s not the same as the engine oil pan

2021 Lotus Evora Gasket-drain plug (fp). Transmission, washer - A132F6170S | Lotus Parts Online, Birmingham MI

Gasket-drain plug (fp). Transmission, washer, sealing. 2021 Lotus Evora. Genuine Lotus Part - A132F6170S. Ships from Lotus Parts Online, Birmingham MI

www.lotuspartsonline.com

 

[Eagle7]

It uses a washer but it’s not the same as the engine oil pan

2021 Lotus Evora Gasket-drain plug (fp). Transmission, washer - A132F6170S | Lotus Parts Online, Birmingham MI

Gasket-drain plug (fp). Transmission, washer, sealing. 2021 Lotus Evora. Genuine Lotus Part - A132F6170S. Ships from Lotus Parts Online, Birmingham MI

www.lotuspartsonline.com

Thank you sir! Just ordered a couple.

 

[Eagle7]

I completed my oil change for the engine. I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and added a friction modifier; Archoil 9100. Jay Leno uses that exclusively in his billion dollar collection of rare and exotic cars, and his mechanic swears by it, so I figured I'd give it a go and see if I can detect any difference.

I did a test drive for about half an hour, and right away I noticed that the engine (mechanical noise) is quieter. The car is pulling strong. Where I really noticed it was going from a steady speed of 55 to 70 on the freeway. When I was merging behind a slower big rig, and was able to get around him, I was surprised at how quickly the car changed speeds. Maybe it's my imagination, but the engine response seems quicker, smoother. (I also have my new Aerie wheels installed with the titanium lug bolts, so that may have played a part too. I'm going to see if I can go out tomorrow in the daytime and get some pictures).

I was going to change the trans oil and put the Archoil in that too, but I just cannot see where the fill hole is. I've looked at the manual, the pictures others have shown of an Evora, and I don't see that. I stuck my phone in down there and took a picture hoping to see things better, but this is what I got. The area in the red circle is supposed to be where the fill hole is, but this looks like a mess. The trans is on the left side of the red circle, the engine is on the right. Even if by some chance the fill hole bolt is under those hoses, and I was able to remove it, I don't see me being able to get oil in there and thread the bolt back in.

What I've decided to do, is let the dealership do it. I need to get that water proof cover for the resistor in the front of the car, and I think there's one or two software updates the car needs, so I'll just plan a trip to Salt Lake City and have the dealer do the trans oil change at the same time. I already have the oil (Redline MTL GL4 75W80) and Archoil I need, and the crush washer for the drain plug should arrive tomorrow, so it's just down to the labor.

I need to go get the car weighed again, and get a current 'weight of the art' update.

 

[SSJAR]

I completed my oil change for the engine. I used Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, and added a friction modifier; Archoil 9100. Jay Leno uses that exclusively in his billion dollar collection of rare and exotic cars, and his mechanic swears by it, so I figured I'd give it a go and see if I can detect any difference.

I did a test drive for about half an hour, and right away I noticed that the engine (mechanical noise) is quieter. The car is pulling strong. Where I really noticed it was going from a steady speed of 55 to 70 on the freeway. When I was merging behind a slower big rig, and was able to get around him, I was surprised at how quickly the car changed speeds. Maybe it's my imagination, but the engine response seems quicker, smoother. (I also have my new Aerie wheels installed with the titanium lug bolts, so that may have played a part too. I'm going to see if I can go out tomorrow in the daytime and get some pictures).

I was going to change the trans oil and put the Archoil in that too, but I just cannot see where the fill hole is. I've looked at the manual, the pictures others have shown of an Evora, and I don't see that. I stuck my phone in down there and took a picture hoping to see things better, but this is what I got. The area in the red circle is supposed to be where the fill hole is, but this looks like a mess. The trans is on the left side of the red circle, the engine is on the right. Even if by some chance the fill hole bolt is under those hoses, and I was able to remove it, I don't see me being able to get oil in there and thread the bolt back in.

View attachment 48732

What I've decided to do, is let the dealership do it. I need to get that water proof cover for the resistor in the front of the car, and I think there's one or two software updates the car needs, so I'll just plan a trip to Salt Lake City and have the dealer do the trans oil change at the same time. I already have the oil (Redline MTL GL4 75W80) and Archoil I need, and the crush washer for the drain plug should arrive tomorrow, so it's just down to the labor.

I need to go get the car weighed again, and get a current 'weight of the art' update.

Thanks for the update. I am thinking when I do the break in oil change of using the Archoil 9100, along with AMSOIL Sig Series 0W-40. Did you use just under half the 16oz bottle for the oil change? Will be interesting how the oil analysis looks down the road, not sure if you are planning on doing that or not.

 

[Eagle7]

Thanks for the update. I am thinking when I do the break in oil change of using the Archoil 9100, along with AMSOIL Sig Series 0W-40. Did you use just under half the 16oz bottle for the oil change? Will be interesting how the oil analysis looks down the road, not sure if you are planning on doing that or not.

After contacting Archoil and telling them what I had and wanted to do, they said to add 1.2 ounces per quart for both the engine and the trans oils. I went to the store and bought a Pyrex mixing cup, and a set of metal tablespoon/teaspoon mixing spoons for cooking to get the measurements. Here's a snapshot of what I worked out to get the mix precisely.

I thought about an oil analysis, but I may be doing 2 more dyno runs, so the cost of this testing process is starting to add up. I'm going to ask the dyno guy if he'll give me a break on the cost of 2 more runs, because I want to do one with the difference of just the Archoil added, and then one with a titanium exhaust which I'm pretty much sure I'm going to get. I want to be able to isolate the actual difference each change makes before adding something else.

Based on what I've read about the Archoil, and my understanding of what the friction reduction will do, I'm guessing somewhere around 5-8 hp to the rear wheels will be freed up; especially if I can get the transaxle done too. Just from the difference I've already noticed with the engine, I expect the trans will be much quieter too once I can get the oil changed.

 

[Eagle7]

Your list of mods are in line with my aspirations. You’ve mentioned GRP’s titanium exhaust and the Tillet seats as next steps. Have you considered a Nitron suspension setup? I don’t know the exact weight savings (depends on which setup you go for I would think) but I thought I saw someone post a weight savings similar to forged wheels or the titanium exhaust over stock…

Those are additional steps that CAN be taken, and I included those in my spreadsheet just for the sake of interest. I'm not going to change the seats. The exhaust is a most likely now. I'm not doing a track build so changing to a Nitron setup isn't something I need to do. I'm plenty happy with the factory suspension. Right now my focus is on reducing drivetrain loss, and I'm researching ceramic bearings which I think would be a very useful upgrade.

 

[Eagle7]

Okay, just got back weighing the car. I went to the place I originally went to where it said the car weighed 3,240 lbs., and after removing 23 lbs with the Aerie wheels, and also titanium lug bolts, I was expecting somewhere around 3217. I put it on the scale, and it said 3,240; exactly the same as before. So now I'm questioning the accuracy of this scale. I started calling around, trying to find a performance/speed shop that can do corner balancing, which would mean they have a race scale, and nobody does. I even called the Porsche dealer who said they don't do anything like that, which really surprised me.

Finally, the last place I call which was a tuner shop, the guy said he didn't know of anyone that had a scale, but he said the guys they get that want tunes for their performance cars, even dragsters, say they go to the local dump and get their cars weighed there. The dump will say they don't do that, give you a weight ticket to go around and get the gate to lift so you can leave, and there's a weight stamped on the ticket, and they don't charge you, so that's what I did! After getting the ticket, I came home and weighed myself with everything extra I had with me (keys, wallet, watch, cell phone, etc.) and after subtracting all that, the car weighs 3,229 lbs. This is with a full tank of gas.

Forget that first weight of 3,240 lbs I posted earlier in my thread. I'm just abandoning that as being inaccurate and unreliable. Based on what I got today, here's the revisions for the original stock weight, and the new W/P ratios. I'm now estimating the original weight was 3,283.21 lbs which seems more familiar to weights I remember reading from other sources. I was able to calculate this knowing what the weights were for the mods on this list, and adding them up with today's weight of 3,229 lbs.

I also stopped to get some photos, but unfortunately we still have smoke in the air from all the fires around the Pacific Northwest. As a result, the light is a gray yellowish color which is not the best light for photos. At any rate, here's a couple shots that show the new wheels I had @Aerie make for me. I think they turned out pretty good!

I didn't do anything about dampening the wheel well liners because between the smoke and heat, I just can't be out in the garage for very long, and that operation is going to be somewhat time-consuming. I'll visit that issue later when we have better weather. After getting the new wheels on the car and the oil changed, I wanted to drive the car.

I also have to find an auto graphics shop that can make the graphics pieces I want. I'll see if I can get that underway next week, but so far I'm really happy with the way things are turning out.

 

[benjh1028]

Based on what I've read about the Archoil, and my understanding of what the friction reduction will do, I'm guessing somewhere around 5-8 hp to the rear wheels will be freed up; especially if I can get the transaxle done too. Just from the difference I've already noticed with the engine, I expect the trans will be much quieter too once I can get the oil changed.

Can you provide information as to what oil/fluid is making claims to free up wheel HP?

 

[EspritGuy]

Okay, just got back weighing the car. I went to the place I originally went to where it said the car weighed 3,240 lbs., and after removing 23 lbs with the Aerie wheels, and also titanium lug bolts, I was expecting somewhere around 3217. I put it on the scale, and it said 3,240; exactly the same as before. So now I'm questioning the accuracy of this scale. I started calling around, trying to find a performance/speed shop that can do corner balancing, which would mean they have a race scale, and nobody does. I even called the Porsche dealer who said they don't do anything like that, which really surprised me.

Finally, the last place I call which was a tuner shop, the guy said he didn't know of anyone that had a scale, but he said the guys they get that want tunes for their performance cars, even dragsters, say they go to the local dump and get their cars weighed there. The dump will say they don't do that, give you a weight ticket to go around and get the gate to lift so you can leave, and there's a weight stamped on the ticket, and they don't charge you, so that's what I did! After getting the ticket, I came home and weighed myself with everything extra I had with me (keys, wallet, watch, cell phone, etc.) and after subtracting all that, the car weighs 3,229 lbs. This is with a full tank of gas.

Forget that first weight of 3,240 lbs I posted earlier in my thread. I'm just abandoning that as being inaccurate and unreliable. Based on what I got today, here's the revisions for the original stock weight, and the new W/P ratios. I'm now estimating the original weight was 3,283.21 lbs which seems more familiar to weights I remember reading from other sources. I was able to calculate this knowing what the weights were for the mods on this list, and adding them up with today's weight of 3,229 lbs.

View attachment 48765

I also stopped to get some photos, but unfortunately we still have smoke in the air from all the fires around the Pacific Northwest. As a result, the light is a gray yellowish color which is not the best light for photos. At any rate, here's a couple shots that show the new wheels I had @Aerie make for me. I think they turned out pretty good!

View attachment 48766
View attachment 48767

I didn't do anything about dampening the wheel well liners because between the smoke and heat, I just can't be out in the garage for very long, and that operation is going to be somewhat time-consuming. I'll visit that issue later when we have better weather. After getting the new wheels on the car and the oil changed, I wanted to drive the car.

I also have to find an auto graphics shop that can make the graphics pieces I want. I'll see if I can get that underway next week, but so far I'm really happy with the way things are turning out.

Thanks to the atmospherics, it's now Shadow Grey

 

[Time2Fly]

Love those @Aerie wheels. They look very Ferrari but not quite which is great on such a sleek car.

 

[Eagle7]

Can you provide information as to what oil/fluid is making claims to free up wheel HP?

It's Archoil 9100 https://www.archoil.com/

Anytime you can reduce resistance to movement, that frees up the energy that was being used to overcome that resistance. This is how and why it's worth reducing drivetrain loss.

 

[Eagle7]

Love those @Aerie wheels. They look very Ferrari but not quite which is great on such a sleek car.

I was basically wanting a 5 spoke version of the wheels on the Evija, except the spokes taper inward towards the rim instead of outward.

 

[Time2Fly]

You should have just bought an Evija, of course

 

[Eagle7]

You should have just bought an Evija, of course

Yeah, what was I thinking lol!

 

[kitkat]

View attachment 48766
View attachment 48767

I didn’t think I’d like it with the wheels off the car at first but I think it goes well with DV — classy look.