DIY - Oil Change Reference for 2GR-FE

[Porter]

For those interested in the Votex magnetic drain plug, please note that it comes with a metal washer that is NOT needed on a Lotus/Toyota motor. Use the standard single-use Toyota crush washer each time instead.

Votex with included washer (dispose):

Votex with new Toyota crush washer:

Votex compared to stock drain plug, both are steel. There is plenty of thread length to fully screw into the factory oil pan. Votex on right:

 

[brainf18]

https://votex-us.com/DP006

 

[Porter]

https://votex-us.com/DP006

I will say, the magnet strength was crazy. Actually made it a little difficult to put in because it kept magnetizing to the pan.

 

[brainf18]

Offset Funnel...Less than $3 from Temu

 

[Nova]

I also changed my oil yesterday at 724 miles. The sample is off to Blackstone for analysis. I was lazy and didn't clean off the undertray before reinstalling it. There was some stone crunching on the reinstall while tightening the bolts that made me wince. Remember to clean off the undertray before you put it back. I got maybe a little over 5 quarts of oil out of the car.

On my car, the filter housing was only hand tight - I was able to spin it off with my hand. I bought the motive tool set but only used the wrench for re-tightening. I placed a plastic bag over the housing while unscrewing it to catch all the oil drips. The oil fill cap on top of the engine was also kind of loose.

The zigzag funnel was very helpful.

 

[Porter]

I got maybe a little over 5 quarts of oil out of the car.

I got a bit more. I put 6 quarts back in and the level after running briefly was in the upper half of the dipstick range.

 

[Rapture]

Did my first oil change yesterday, with the kind assistance of @B r I a n

The number of bolts on the bottom of this car is insane. It all goes together quite logically, but wow. I can't imagine the engineering schematics involved in designing all of these precision-fit interlocking pieces.

View attachment 43675

Bottom access to the engine is great once the undertray is removed. Clear and easy.

View attachment 43676

Here's the top side of the ducted undertray showing the air management. Very cool design.

View attachment 43677

Is there a DIY writeup on removing the access panel for the oil change?

 

[Time2Fly]

@Rapture , there's a shop manual you can find to download and a member here is printing them.

 

[Porter]

Is there a DIY writeup on removing the access panel for the oil change?

How about we go one better?

FYI the bolt count and descriptions are not a 100% match to the car as manufactured. So use this as a general guide, not an exact step by step. For example, there are 3 10mm bolts under rubber grommet covers that aren't called out in the diagram.

We removed all fasteners, pulled down on the plastic rear diffuser to let the access panel shift rearward (releasing the front edge) and then carefully lowered and removed it.

 

[Blackthought_]

Offset Funnel...Less than $3 from TemuView attachment 43687

I bought this guy on Amazon last year and’s it worked out nicely

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MEPIU4M?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

[Rapture]

Thanks Porter. That was one of my thoughts. Do you need to remove any bolts from the diffuser undertray to facilitate removing the oil change access undertray. I'd like to put together a cheat sheet for my indie that I will have do the oil change.

Thanks for the parts list also, I bought most of the stuff including the Amosoil.

How about we go one better?

View attachment 43748

FYI the bolt count and descriptions are not a 100% match to the car as manufactured. So use this as a general guide, not an exact step by step. For example, there are 3 10mm bolts under rubber grommet covers that aren't called out in the diagram.

We removed all fasteners, pulled down on the plastic rear diffuser to let the access panel shift rearward (releasing the front edge) and then carefully lowered and removed it.

 

[Porter]

Thanks Porter. That was one of my thoughts. Do you need to remove any bolts from the diffuser undertray to facilitate removing the oil change access undertray. I'd like to put together a cheat sheet for my indie that I will have do the oil change.

Thanks for the parts list also, I bought most of the stuff including the Amosoil.

You do need to remove some bolts that go into the diffuser, but they actually go up through the tabs extending off of the rear aluminum undertray as well. Essentially you're just decoupling the plastic diffuser panel from the aluminum undertray at that edge where they meet.

Removing the rear diffuser panel itself is not necessary. There are a number of small hex socket fasteners in it for example, and I didn't touch a single one.

 

[fcajr]

You do need to remove some bolts that go into the diffuser, but they actually go up through the tabs extending off of the rear aluminum undertray as well. Essentially you're just decoupling the plastic diffuser panel from the aluminum undertray at that edge where they meet.

Removing the rear diffuser panel itself is not necessary. There are a number of small hex socket fasteners in it for example, and I didn't touch a single one.

I'm still struggling with how to lift and support the car for the oil change. How did you accomplish that?

 

[Porter]

I'm still struggling with how to lift and support the car for the oil change. How did you accomplish that?

In this case, with a 4 post lift.

You could do it with a set of race ramps or rhino ramps under the rear wheels, but it would be pretty awkward with so many bolts to remove. Do-able though.

 

[netsinah]

I'm still struggling with how to lift and support the car for the oil change. How did you accomplish that?

I have a 4-post lift but park a vehicle on top, so rarely use it to service vehicles. I use the Rhino ramps suggested by Porter for front engine vehicle oil changes. The ramps increase the vehicle height by about 6.5”. I built a 2x4 frame around each ramp to raise them up by another 1.5 inches, creating more height and making it far easier to move/work underneath the vehicle. But that’s driving the front of the (front engine) vehicle up on the ramps.

The Emira is a mid-engine vehicle with the engine located in front of the rear wheels. Without an Emira and not yet having tried an oil change, and if a 2 or 4-post lift or QuickJack isn’t used, I’m not sure which of these two possible options will work:

1. The Rhino ramps and backing the Emira up onto the ramps, to raise the rear-end (likely even better if the ramps are 1.5” higher with an additional 2x4 frame);
2. If that doesn’t create enough clearance, use the Rhino ramps but also raise the other end of the Emira, by using two low profile jacks on the other end of the vehicle. Perhaps driving the front of the Emira onto the ramps, then raising the rear even higher with 2 jacks at the rear, would work best by creating more rear clearance. You’d have to carefully place each jack on the correct under carriage lift point as mentioned in both the owner’s handbook (p.209) and service manual (p.00–1). Then for safety you’d need a jack stand (two in total) as back-up support for each low profile jack.

Some thoughts for DIY people. Unless you’re one of us, you’ll likely wonder why bother with all the above, when it’s so easy to pay someone with all the equipment already, to do an oil/filter change.

I’ll eventually post what works for me. What do you think of the 2 options Porter?

 

[scc.131.fe]

In case this wasn't added before:

 

[fcajr]

In case this wasn't added before:

Great video! I watched it a while back and will likely use a Toyota filter. For oil, my go to is Amsoil. I've had good experiences using it.

 

[fcajr]

I also changed my oil yesterday at 724 miles. The sample is off to Blackstone for analysis. I was lazy and didn't clean off the undertray before reinstalling it. There was some stone crunching on the reinstall while tightening the bolts that made me wince. Remember to clean off the undertray before you put it back. I got maybe a little over 5 quarts of oil out of the car.

On my car, the filter housing was only hand tight - I was able to spin it off with my hand. I bought the motive tool set but only used the wrench for re-tightening. I placed a plastic bag over the housing while unscrewing it to catch all the oil drips. The oil fill cap on top of the engine was also kind of loose.

The zigzag funnel was very helpful.

View attachment 43693

 

[fcajr]

Did the funnel stay in place?......or did you have to hold it while pouring the oil?

 

[Nova]

Did the funnel stay in place?......or did you have to hold it while pouring the oil?

It would be safer to hold it. The funnel doesn't go in to the filler hole by much because of the blocking plate. The funnel will sit there and not tip over, but rather precariously.