Emira and Quick Jack

[Time2Fly]

Costco has a sale on the 5000TL and 7000TL until the 30th.

 

[saknibs]

I just got quick jacks a few weeks ago. They are difficult to synchronize, meaning to start lifting at the same time so that my car is level. Sometimes it is off by ~6 inches. When that happens I lower them and start over. With a couple tries the car will be level.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this the way they all work?

 

[Porter]

I just got quick jacks a few weeks ago. They are difficult to synchronize, meaning to start lifting at the same time so that my car is level. Sometimes it is off by ~6 inches. When that happens I lower them and start over. With a couple tries the car will be level.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this the way they all work?

If they are lifting the same amount of weight they should be even by default. That's using them longitudinally, along the frame rails of a standard car.

If you are using them across the car (transverse) the hydraulic balance is difficult until they get up to full pressure, because the weight is quite different F/R.

 

[scc.131.fe]

I just got quick jacks a few weeks ago. They are difficult to synchronize, meaning to start lifting at the same time so that my car is level. Sometimes it is off by ~6 inches. When that happens I lower them and start over. With a couple tries the car will be level.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this the way they all work?

They often will be out of sync a bit as they rise with no load. So you end up making contact on one side first. The side with no contact yet will then rise more quickly to meet the load, and then they lift together. If it's noticeably unlevel as it's lifting the vehicle, then I would be concerned.

 

[scc.131.fe]

By the way, as soon as I get the grocery-hauler off the quickjack I can start testing with the 7000TLX to see how it fits the Emira

 

[saknibs]

They often will be out of sync a bit as they rise with no load. So you end up making contact on one side first. The side with no contact yet will then rise more quickly to meet the load, and then they lift together. If it's noticeably unlevel as it's lifting the vehicle, then I would be concerned.

Thanks for your replies. I'll get a couple photos the next time I use them to show what they are doing. The load is longitudinal - along the "frame rails" - lifting my 911.

 

[Eagle7]

Thanks for your replies. I'll get a couple photos the next time I use them to show what they are doing. The load is longitudinal - along the "frame rails" - lifting my 911.

Is it always the same side that doesn't lift as quickly as the other side? If so, (or you could do this with both sides) check to see if there's air in the hydraulic cylinder. Try a quick bleed test like you do when setting it up the first time, in case there might still be some air that didn't get bled out.

 

[MIGZ]

I just got quick jacks a few weeks ago. They are difficult to synchronize, meaning to start lifting at the same time so that my car is level. Sometimes it is off by ~6 inches. When that happens I lower them and start over. With a couple tries the car will be level.

Am I doing something wrong? Is this the way they all work?

You need to keep bleeding all the air out

 

[benjh1028]

Thinking of this as an alternative as it has adjustable lift arms and a much higher lift height. Anyone have experience with this type of lift?:

Tuxedo MR6K-48X 6,000 lb Mid-Rise Scissor Lift

Looking for garage cabinets, flooring, workbenches & more to get your space organized? Find the best in premier garage storage products online at GarageAppeal.com!

www.garageappeal.com

 

[Eagle7]

Thinking of this as an alternative as it has adjustable lift arms and a much higher lift height. Anyone have experience with this type of lift?:

Tuxedo MR6K-48X 6,000 lb Mid-Rise Scissor Lift

Looking for garage cabinets, flooring, workbenches & more to get your space organized? Find the best in premier garage storage products online at GarageAppeal.com!

www.garageappeal.com

At a thousand pounds that's not going to be something you move around much. Are you looking for something just for the Emira?

 

[benjh1028]

At a thousand pounds that's not going to be something you move around much. Are you looking for something just for the Emira?

It would not be exclusive to the Emira. Good point on portability - have no idea as to how well the trolly works in moving it around.

 

[Time2Fly]

@scc.131.fe what's the word on the Emira 7000 TLX combo?

 

[scc.131.fe]

@scc.131.fe what's the word on the Emira 7000 TLX combo?

Answer Part 1 -
The 7000TLX fits under the Emira with what appears to be adequate room between the front and rear tire in order to rise from flat without impacting anything.

From my initial observations, the "buckets" on the quickjack that you place the blocks within are spaced on the TLX such that you should be able to hit the rear factory jack point and the forward location where the frame begins to angle inward, just aft of the sideview mirrors, shows in the green box of the image below by @silent cilantro.

For Part 2, as soon as I get a few more spare minutes, I'll fit the rubber lifting blocks and take some pictures.

I still have not seen any technical info suggesting that this frame angle location is a suitable jack point in lieu of the specified location by Lotus. Not sure yet if I'll be lifting mine here or not, so my hat's off to those that are experimenting. I lack the courage at the moment...

 

[Eagle7]

After studying it, I think the main reason they set the front lift points so far forward was for stability so there wouldn't be any fore/aft wobble, not because the side rails aren't strong enough. I've put together a set of pictures that show the frame.

Here you can see one of their motorized sleds appear to be lifting the car near the forward end of the door instead of deep into the edge of the wheel well which is where the manual shows the forward lift point.

Here you can see what looks like the same lifting point near the front, which is at the beginning of where the frame starts to angle inwards towards the front.

Here's that same lifting point from the inside of the chassis (which is now pointing to the right compared to above which is pointing to the left). You can see there are two crossbraces, with one directly at the point where the chassis frame starts to angle inwards.

That point can be seen here which is back further than where the lifting arms are positioned.

I think the forward point is strictly to shift the balance point of the lift more towards the center of the car to avoid the possibility of wobble on a 2 or 4 arm lift. A Quickjack is a full length long rail so there wouldn't be any possibility of a fore/aft wobble. If you position the Quickjack front lift point right where the chassis starts to angle in, like they appear to do at the factory with their sleds, it should work just fine. It's what I'm going to do.

 

[Aero]

After studying it, I think the main reason they set the front lift points so far forward was for stability so there wouldn't be any fore/aft wobble, not because the side rails aren't strong enough. I've put together a set of pictures that show the frame.

Here you can see one of their motorized sleds appear to be lifting the car near the forward end of the door instead of deep into the edge of the wheel well which is where the manual shows the forward lift point.

View attachment 42252

Here you can see what looks like the same lifting point near the front, which is at the beginning of where the frame starts to angle inwards towards the front.

View attachment 42253

Here's that same lifting point from the inside of the chassis (which is now pointing to the right compared to above which is pointing to the left). You can see there are two crossbraces, with one directly at the point where the chassis frame starts to angle inwards.

View attachment 42254

That point can be seen here which is back further than where the lifting arms are positioned.

View attachment 42255

I think the forward point is strictly to shift the balance point of the lift more towards the center of the car to avoid the possibility of wobble on a 2 or 4 arm lift. A Quickjack is a full length long rail so there wouldn't be any possibility of a fore/aft wobble. If you position the Quickjack front lift point right where the chassis starts to angle in, like they appear to do at the factory with their sleds, it should work just fine. It's what I'm going to do.

Good images. Also I think they put the forward lift point as far forward and the rear so far aft to allow for stability if the engine is removed on the lift. The CG will shift forward and dont want that moment arm to be so short coupled if the fwd lift point is where that fwd bend is. If just raising the car without major assemblies removed the other alternative fwd lift point should be fine.

 

[Time2Fly]

Answer Part 1 -
The 7000TLX fits under the Emira with what appears to be adequate room between the front and rear tire in order to rise from flat without impacting anything.

From my initial observations, the "buckets" on the quickjack that you place the blocks within are spaced on the TLX such that you should be able to hit the rear factory jack point and the forward location where the frame begins to angle inward, just aft of the sideview mirrors, shows in the green box of the image below by @silent cilantro.

For Part 2, as soon as I get a few more spare minutes, I'll fit the rubber lifting blocks and take some pictures.

I still have not seen any technical info suggesting that this frame angle location is a suitable jack point in lieu of the specified location by Lotus. Not sure yet if I'll be lifting mine here or not, so my hat's off to those that are experimenting. I lack the courage at the moment...

I'd appreciate the test fitting / lifting. There's a sale on at the moment that I'm interested in participating in.

 

[sirringo]

After studying it, I think the main reason they set the front lift points so far forward was for stability so there wouldn't be any fore/aft wobble, not because the side rails aren't strong enough. I've put together a set of pictures that show the frame.

Here you can see one of their motorized sleds appear to be lifting the car near the forward end of the door instead of deep into the edge of the wheel well which is where the manual shows the forward lift point.

View attachment 42252

Here you can see what looks like the same lifting point near the front, which is at the beginning of where the frame starts to angle inwards towards the front.

View attachment 42253

Here's that same lifting point from the inside of the chassis (which is now pointing to the right compared to above which is pointing to the left). You can see there are two crossbraces, with one directly at the point where the chassis frame starts to angle inwards.

View attachment 42254

That point can be seen here which is back further than where the lifting arms are positioned.

View attachment 42255

I think the forward point is strictly to shift the balance point of the lift more towards the center of the car to avoid the possibility of wobble on a 2 or 4 arm lift. A Quickjack is a full length long rail so there wouldn't be any possibility of a fore/aft wobble. If you position the Quickjack front lift point right where the chassis starts to angle in, like they appear to do at the factory with their sleds, it should work just fine. It's what I'm going to do.

Each QuickJack frame only has two contact points with the chassis of the vehicle you lift - it’s analogous to a two-post lift. There is a little bit of overhang beyond where the blocks that contact the chassis sit, but I would never rely on that to compensate for an unstable platform.

 

[Eagle7]

Each QuickJack frame only has two contact points with the chassis of the vehicle you lift - it’s analogous to a two-post lift. There is a little bit of overhang beyond where the blocks that contact the chassis sit, but I would never rely on that to compensate for an unstable platform.

Right, I have one. However the rubber Quickjack blocks are supported by the full length of the lift rail, as opposed to a 2 arm lift which has a single point with 2 arms extending outward, and the lift blocks are at the end of those arms as you can see in that underside picture I posted. If you've ever watched a vehicle being lifted with one of those, there is a slight bit of wobble.

 

[sirringo]

Right, I have one. However the rubber Quickjack blocks are supported by the full length of the lift rail, as opposed to a 2 arm lift which has a single point with 2 arms extending outward, and the lift blocks are at the end of those arms as you can see in that underside picture I posted. If you've ever watched a vehicle being lifted with one of those, there is a slight bit of wobble.

Hmm - I suppose there's an argument to be made about the stability of the QJ base sat underneath the blocks vs. an extended arm, but there are plenty of counter-arguments to be made about robustness of pump, failsafe, free-standing rails on potentially uneven floors vs. bolted-in lift posts, etc. To each his own! I love my QJ but I would not ever consider them more stable than a properly-used 2-post.

 

[Eagle7]

Hmm - I suppose there's an argument to be made about the stability of the QJ base sat underneath the blocks vs. an extended arm, but there are plenty of counter-arguments to be made about robustness of pump, failsafe, free-standing rails on potentially uneven floors vs. bolted-in lift posts, etc. To each his own! I love my QJ but I would not ever consider them more stable than a properly-used 2-post.

You can say that about most anything. There's videos on YouTube showing cars falling off 2 post lifts, or coming off a dyno during a run. Like anything, it's up to the operator to pay attention to what they're doing and do it properly. Proper maintenance of equipment and all that.

This thread is more about the Quickjack being suitable for the Emira due to the location of the lift points, which I think it is.