• The September 2024 Lotus Emira Photo of the Month contest is underway! Please take a moment to check out thread here: 🏆 September 2024 - Emira of the Month starts now! (You can dismiss this message by clicking the X in the top right hand corner of this notice.)

What did you do to your Emira today?

Some goodies came in.

IMG_1286.jpeg
 
Too bad they can't sit flat. I may take up delivering for door dash though. Really toasty boot.
they can sit flat-ish, I just tilted the box more for the picture.lol
:)

my Golf bag fits perfectly in there too some how.
 
It's great that you got your Emira back. It is odd that the ignition coils corroded/failed so fast on a new car, and no less odd is why Lotus placed them so close (beneath) those water drain channels. This issue reminds me of the HVAC harness problem which was resolved by placing a rubber cover (blanket) over the harness/resistor area. I got mine installed by the dealer not to long ago as a preventive measure, but when I checked out the work that they did, to be honest, it doesn't inspire too much confidence that the rubber cover will resolve the issue in the long run.
Anyway, as it relates to resolving any potential future ignition coil corrosion, I haven't had a reason so far to remove the back trunk panel behind which the ignition coils reside, but I do intend to check it out sometime soon. Perhaps a solution may be to wrap the coils in heat shrink tape to try to water seal them. I'll revert here with my findings.
I removed the trunk panels yesterday to gain access to the ignition coil section and also to place some Second Skin Heat Wave Pro as I'm trying to reduce the trunk temperature from reaching 300 degrees (to maybe 250 degrees? :)).
Regarding the ignition coils, I found that, the wire harnesses are indeed exposed to water getting in due to their placement and orientation. I placed some heat shrink tubing on some of the wire harnesses and battery silicone covers on others to better protect them. Nothing is glued or permanent, only heat shrink tubing and zip ties to seal and hold them in place, so they can easily be removed should there be a need to replace any of the parts in the future. I hope this could help avoid future water damage to the ignition coils and related harnesses. Here are before and after pictures.
IMG_1085.jpeg
IMG_1088.jpeg
pictures.
 
@crestima They said the sleeve of the coil showed corrosion as well. I think it's getting into the well where it contacts the spark plugs. It's not just the wires at the top. My thought there would be an oiled / lubed high temp o ring, or a shield to prevent water from getting in alongside the coils.

Since you had it off, do the boot tray drains have hoses to route the water away? Maybe that would be good? Or it it just the water from the boot lid running in over the engine? So maybe a deflector to guide the water further forward until it's clear of the coils?
 
I removed the trunk panels yesterday to gain access to the ignition coil section and also to place some Second Skin Heat Wave Pro as I'm trying to reduce the trunk temperature from reaching 300 degrees (to maybe 250 degrees? :)).
Regarding the ignition coils, I found that, the wire harnesses are indeed exposed to water getting in due to their placement and orientation. I placed some heat shrink tubing on some of the wire harnesses and battery silicone covers on others to better protect them. Nothing is glued or permanent, only heat shrink tubing and zip ties to seal and hold them in place, so they can easily be removed should there be a need to replace any of the parts in the future. I hope this could help avoid future water damage to the ignition coils and related harnesses. Here are before and after pictures.View attachment 51275View attachment 51274 pictures.
I have to look at the Toyota ones on my car To see if the same ?
 
@crestima They said the sleeve of the coil showed corrosion as well. I think it's getting into the well where it contacts the spark plugs. It's not just the wires at the top. My thought there would be an oiled / lubed high temp o ring, or a shield to prevent water from getting in alongside the coils.

Since you had it off, do the boot tray drains have hoses to route the water away? Maybe that would be good? Or it it just the water from the boot lid running in over the engine? So maybe a deflector to guide the water further forward until it's clear of the coils?
No, there're no hoses on the drain channel, just holes, but honestly, I don't really think that the main source of water seeping through comes from those holes, since they're farther out on the edges, not in the direction of the coil harnesses. Rather, I think (but could be wrong), that the water penetrates through the groove from the plastic vent trim that goes the full length of the supercharger cover. I say this because, if you look from the top of that groove, you can see the coils and harnesses below. When the trunk lid is opened with water accumulated in the back window vent, it spills all over that section, including on to the supercharger cover, so I'm convinced that's where the water gets in to the coils and harnesses. Here's a picture I took from atop that groove in the direction of the ignition coils. It's not that easy to tell from the picture, but those are the coils below.
IMG_1093.jpeg
 
I have to look at the Toyota ones on my car To see if the same ?
If your Toyota has the V6 3.5L engine, then I'd imagine that they are similar, but the problem is not in the engine or coils themselves, rather it's on their exposure to water seeping through. Presumably your Toyota's engine is well protected from water in front engine bay and hood, while in the Emira's case, it seems that somehow it's getting in to that coil section. See my previous post for further details. I hope this helps to clarify.
 
Is that for tracking?
Yes, most racing organizations require your car to have a tow hook if you are going on track.

 
My Emira came with a black tow-hook, in the "trunk (aka boot) kit".

Some questions:

1. I assume this can be used for the front of the Emira (only), since page 267 of the owner's handbook only mentions the tow hook being connected to the front? My Corvette C8's had a place on both the front and rear bumper areas, but apparently the Emira has nothing on the rear. I've seen nothing on the rear, so think that's correct? If so, trying to tow a disabled Emira that's turned around when (for example) off-track, may be awkward?
2. If this vehicle-supplied tow hook works, and other than appearance (if one wants to keep a colored tow hook like the GRP ZL1 on the front "permanently"), why purchase another from GRP or anyone else?
3. What's the difference with the 2 types of tow hooks sold by GRP? According to GRP's description: The Feather Lite design removes the heim joint compared to our Premium offering and adds in a nylon insert to hold the shaft in the desirable position. Does that mean how it attaches to the actual "tow hook" is different...and the "Feather Lite" is a lighter weight. If lighter, is it as robust and able to withstand the weight of the car as well as the Premium version, when towed?

So many questions...so little time...lol. Any help appreciated.
 
My Emira came with a black tow-hook, in the "trunk (aka boot) kit".

Some questions:

1. I assume this can be used for the front of the Emira (only), since page 267 of the owner's handbook only mentions the tow hook being connected to the front? My Corvette C8's had a place on both the front and rear bumper areas, but apparently the Emira has nothing on the rear. I've seen nothing on the rear, so think that's correct? If so, trying to tow a disabled Emira that's turned around when (for example) off-track, may be awkward?
2. If this vehicle-supplied tow hook works, and other than appearance (if one wants to keep a colored tow hook like the GRP ZL1 on the front "permanently"), why purchase another from GRP or anyone else?
3. What's the difference with the 2 types of tow hooks sold by GRP? According to GRP's description: The Feather Lite design removes the heim joint compared to our Premium offering and adds in a nylon insert to hold the shaft in the desirable position. Does that mean how it attaches to the actual "tow hook" is different...and the "Feather Lite" is a lighter weight. If lighter, is it as robust and able to withstand the weight of the car as well as the Premium version, when towed?

So many questions...so little time...lol. Any help appreciated.
I've had to use the one that comes in the trunk. I can't imagine a lighter one.
 
My Emira came with a black tow-hook, in the "trunk (aka boot) kit".

Some questions:

1. I assume this can be used for the front of the Emira (only), since page 267 of the owner's handbook only mentions the tow hook being connected to the front? My Corvette C8's had a place on both the front and rear bumper areas, but apparently the Emira has nothing on the rear. I've seen nothing on the rear, so think that's correct? If so, trying to tow a disabled Emira that's turned around when (for example) off-track, may be awkward?
2. If this vehicle-supplied tow hook works, and other than appearance (if one wants to keep a colored tow hook like the GRP ZL1 on the front "permanently"), why purchase another from GRP or anyone else?
3. What's the difference with the 2 types of tow hooks sold by GRP? According to GRP's description: The Feather Lite design removes the heim joint compared to our Premium offering and adds in a nylon insert to hold the shaft in the desirable position. Does that mean how it attaches to the actual "tow hook" is different...and the "Feather Lite" is a lighter weight. If lighter, is it as robust and able to withstand the weight of the car as well as the Premium version, when towed?

So many questions...so little time...lol. Any help appreciated.
1. I don't know of a rear hook. Maybe someone else knows about that.
2. I'm sure you could run the OEM tow hook at a track day as long as it visually meets their requirements. Some events might require the tow hook to be obviously marked or a bright color. Maybe you could paint the loop on the OEM tow hook red?
3. I have the Feather Light tow hook with the nylon insert instead of the traditional heim joint. The nylon insert provides a good amount of resistance, so the loop stays wherever you position it, and you don't have to worry about it being floppy. You can see the difference in the two tow hooks by looking at the product photos next to each other. The Feather Lite tow hook is super beefy and solid. It's probably overkill, but it looks great, and it doesn't set off the front radar either. I will probably run it all the time since it looks so nice.

Feather Lit Stealth.jpg
Stealth Tow Hook.jpeg
 
I removed the trunk panels yesterday to gain access to the ignition coil section and also to place some Second Skin Heat Wave Pro as I'm trying to reduce the trunk temperature from reaching 300 degrees (to maybe 250 degrees? :)).
Regarding the ignition coils, I found that, the wire harnesses are indeed exposed to water getting in due to their placement and orientation. I placed some heat shrink tubing on some of the wire harnesses and battery silicone covers on others to better protect them. Nothing is glued or permanent, only heat shrink tubing and zip ties to seal and hold them in place, so they can easily be removed should there be a need to replace any of the parts in the future. I hope this could help avoid future water damage to the ignition coils and related harnesses. Here are before and after pictures.View attachment 51275View attachment 51274 pictures.
You did a nice job on the shrink wrapping! That one vertical connector with the pins clearly open and exposed is really shocking to see (no pun intended). It looks like a grounding connector, but there's no way those pins should be exposed to the open air like that. That's the kind of thing that can get oxidized and corroded just from normal moisture in the air and condensation. The coil packs themselves have sealed connections, you can see it around the wires.

I'm going to have to look and see if that grounding connector on mine looks like that, if it does, I'm definitely going to seal it.
 
I've had to use the one that comes in the trunk. I can't imagine a lighter one.
Yeah, not so much a lightness pursuit rather, some find the colorful hook sticking out to be attractive or cool. I don't even like the sight of the open hole for the hook in the Emira's lower mesh grill. Goes to show that you really can't argue with tastes when some even think this is cool...
IMG_1096.jpeg
 
You did a nice job on the shrink wrapping! That one vertical connector with the pins clearly open and exposed is really shocking to see (no pun intended). It looks like a grounding connector, but there's no way those pins should be exposed to the open air like that. That's the kind of thing that can get oxidized and corroded just from normal moisture in the air and condensation. The coil packs themselves have sealed connections, you can see it around the wires.

I'm going to have to look and see if that grounding connector on mine looks like that, if it does, I'm definitely going to seal it.
I suspect you'll find that they're all alike. Yeah, I may have gone a bit overboard on the shrink wrapping and cover stuff, but it was fairly easy and quick thing to do and I made sure that everything could be undone without collateral damage.
 
You did a nice job on the shrink wrapping! That one vertical connector with the pins clearly open and exposed is really shocking to see (no pun intended). It looks like a grounding connector, but there's no way those pins should be exposed to the open air like that. That's the kind of thing that can get oxidized and corroded just from normal moisture in the air and condensation. The coil packs themselves have sealed connections, you can see it around the wires.

I'm going to have to look and see if that grounding connector on mine looks like that, if it does, I'm definitely going to seal it.

I'm going to have a friend of mine look at making a solution. They shouldn't be exposed like that and it really worries me for long term ownership.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

Back
Top