Audio thread- to KEF or not to KEF?

Is the stock amp a separate unit from the DSP controls? I was thinking of doing a simpler setup with a new amp to power the stock front speakers (either just the two or center included) and adding a powered subwoofer on the rear shelf...I would imagine the stock KEF units would sound good with more clean power. Anyone attempt this, or at that point why not just switch out the fronts with separates? I get that too...just trying to simplify the install

There are two amps, the main amp with the DSP plus a booster amp for the subwoofer. The booster amp takes the output from the main amp and, uh, boosts it.

There is no way to upgrade just the amp to get more power, you'll end up boosting the signal from the main amplifier.

I am not aware of a non-invasive way to extract the original digital or line level signal from the OEM system. The A2B bus decoder, DSP chip, DAC chip, and the amplifier chip are all in the main amp unit.
 
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Is the stock amp a separate unit from the DSP controls? I was thinking of doing a simpler setup with a new amp to power the stock front speakers (either just the two or center included) and adding a powered subwoofer on the rear shelf...I would imagine the stock KEF units would sound good with more clean power. Anyone attempt this, or at that point why not just switch out the fronts with separates? I get that too...just trying to simplify the install

@Nova 's reply - This is sound info & advice.

@Kaz - My 2 cents worth:- As you'd need to strip the Rear interior out to access the OEM sub, amps and wiring etc you are 70% of the way there - You'd also have full access to the rear speakers by this point...

I don't want to sound brutal, but just wanted to be completely honest with you. My advice is not to waste money on going the route you've mentioned (sorry,,). Unfortunately, if you seek a far better audio system then it's going to cost a bit.
Solely adding another amp to the front speakers won't improve the sound those small speakers can produce....don't get me started on the sub quality... ;)
As I have mentioned previously, some have added tweeters to the A Pillars, and some others added an additional powered sub to the shelf behind the seat. I haven't heard these systems, therefore cannot comment, but to keep it simple those mod's will improve vocals and bass to a capacity..

The world of car audio is a money pit and solely depends how much you would like to spend.
Should you wish to go all in with larger & high quality speakers, amps, and a sub, then I can provide assistance. Both OEM Amps remain, then you'll add another amp on the output side of these, preferably one with DSP and is programable. (Audison).
Example - I have spent approx £2600 on audio gear (not including installation) and it sounds awesome. I'm not suggesting this is for everyone as some just love listening to the engine and exhaust notes.
 
Super helpful!

My last canyon car was an Alfa 4C and I didn't even bother with audio, just wore Sony XM5's and no amount of sound proofing and speakers would be better than 100% sound isolation and noise cancelling. But the Emira is not an Elise or 4C, it has the "potential" to be a nice GT if you want it to so was flipping between not even trying and just using noise cancelling earbuds if I want music, and none if I want the sounds of the car.

Think I've netted out that I would like my Emira to be a "normal" car when I want it to...like actually drive it out to dinner on a Friday night and be more multipurpose, along with carving the canyons up when I want to do that. Anyways love your build spec I will talk with my installer and I agree with you, if I do anything at all might as well do three layer CLD, CCF, MLV strategically and get your printed kit and make the whole thing easy. I've only driven my Emira for 20 miles so far but there is way more tire/road noise than I expected with all that weight in the car...I mean my last canyon car was the 4C and it was just as noisy but weighs what...600lbs lighter? Anyways again I think a lot of people would like more dual purpose application of this car and when not ripping it up be able to have a conversation and listen to music. So some sound deadening and sound proofing, upgrade audio seems a great idea. It's either do all that, or just throw in some noise cancelling earbuds for music.

I will look again through your build thread(s) did you also treat the floor? wheel wells? I think doors and firewall are requirements but don't know if someone has done some treatment on the floor too. Easy to offset the weight with lithium battery, wheels, exhaust, etc, every little but counts...

@Nova 's reply - This is sound info & advice.

@Kaz - My 2 cents worth:- As you'd need to strip the Rear interior out to access the OEM sub, amps and wiring etc you are 70% of the way there - You'd also have full access to the rear speakers by this point...

I don't want to sound brutal, but just wanted to be completely honest with you. My advice is not to waste money on going the route you've mentioned (sorry,,). Unfortunately, if you seek a far better audio system then it's going to cost a bit.
Solely adding another amp to the front speakers won't improve the sound those small speakers can produce....don't get me started on the sub quality... ;)
As I have mentioned previously, some have added tweeters to the A Pillars, and some others added an additional powered sub to the shelf behind the seat. I haven't heard these systems, therefore cannot comment, but to keep it simple those mod's will improve vocals and bass to a capacity..

The world of car audio is a money pit and solely depends how much you would like to spend.
Should you wish to go all in with larger & high quality speakers, amps, and a sub, then I can provide assistance. Both OEM Amps remain, then you'll add another amp on the output side of these, preferably one with DSP and is programable. (Audison).
Example - I have spent approx £2600 on audio gear (not including installation) and it sounds awesome. I'm not suggesting this is for everyone as some just love listening to the engine and exhaust notes.
 
Super helpful!

My last canyon car was an Alfa 4C and I didn't even bother with audio, just wore Sony XM5's and no amount of sound proofing and speakers would be better than 100% sound isolation and noise cancelling. But the Emira is not an Elise or 4C, it has the "potential" to be a nice GT if you want it to so was flipping between not even trying and just using noise cancelling earbuds if I want music, and none if I want the sounds of the car.

Think I've netted out that I would like my Emira to be a "normal" car when I want it to...like actually drive it out to dinner on a Friday night and be more multipurpose, along with carving the canyons up when I want to do that. Anyways love your build spec I will talk with my installer and I agree with you, if I do anything at all might as well do three layer CLD, CCF, MLV strategically and get your printed kit and make the whole thing easy. I've only driven my Emira for 20 miles so far but there is way more tire/road noise than I expected with all that weight in the car...I mean my last canyon car was the 4C and it was just as noisy but weighs what...600lbs lighter? Anyways again I think a lot of people would like more dual purpose application of this car and when not ripping it up be able to have a conversation and listen to music. So some sound deadening and sound proofing, upgrade audio seems a great idea. It's either do all that, or just throw in some noise cancelling earbuds for music.

I will look again through your build thread(s) did you also treat the floor? wheel wells? I think doors and firewall are requirements but don't know if someone has done some treatment on the floor too. Easy to offset the weight with lithium battery, wheels, exhaust, etc, every little but counts...

No problem Kaz, I just like to be honest and up front - and thank you for your kind words.

As for sound deadening - With all the rear compartment trim removed I installed sound deadening to whole of this area (see attached pics). Then acoustic foam over the top in the rear quarters where the speakers are situated.
The insides of both doors were done too + foam over the top, & even did the inner door cards, which made the doors sound better when closing (see attached pics).
No more road noise or stone-flicking-up noise.

Thanks.
 

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No problem Kaz, I just like to be honest and up front - and thank you for your kind words.

As for sound deadening - With all the rear compartment trim removed I installed sound deadening to whole of this area (see attached pics). Then acoustic foam over the top in the rear quarters where the speakers are situated.
The insides of both doors were done too + foam over the top, & even did the inner door cards, which made the doors sound better when closing (see attached pics).
No more road noise or stone-flicking-up noise.

Thanks.
Again SUPER helpful

You think you made enough of a dent in the road noise to avoid having to do the floor board as well? Or wheel wells? Seems like it...that's good news on the weight front, don't want to add the 20-30lbs it would take to do the floor and wheel wells. This is great news it's just the doors and firewall/rear
 
Sorry Kaz, I forgot to answer this..
No, I didn't feel it necessary to remove the seats and do the floors, or do the wheel wells, it's quiet enough for me personally. Although, there are some that have as we all have different noise tolerant levels ;).
 
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