DIY - Oil Change Reference for 2GR-FE

Very odd, talked to service at my dealership and said it was a tour and sport mode thing, but I think that’s not right.
I agree with you, I don't think that's right.

The factory service manual doesn't show any holes or vents at all, it's drawn as a big flat plate, so it's no help on this question.
 
Drain plug torque always seem excessive to me. It's just a drain hole.
Agree-I used 20NM given other vehicles that I have experience with (where plugs have been stripped by careless techs) and that I used a mag drain plug that had fewer threads vs OEM; there has been no leaking. Over heat cycles they tend to settle further.
 
Very odd, talked to service at my dealership and said it was a tour and sport mode thing, but I think that’s not right.
That is dealer speak for "we don't know the correct answer and we don't want to deal with this". Those are service access panels, they should be there on all models.
 
Too bad those panels dont line up as access panels for the oil filter and drain plug. My GR86 had one specifically for the oil plug access. Two bolts to remove to pivot sub panel for access instead of the 20 or so required for the entire panel.
 
That is dealer speak for "we don't know the correct answer and we don't want to deal with this". Those are service access panels, they should be there on all models.
Yeah I called the dealer back and they are working on it. Quality control an issue even for the dealer to miss it, unless they don’t put cars on the lift before customer picks them up idk.

But to your point the service manager is the one that told me it’s a sport and tour. So if they don’t know how can they find issues. Thankfully we have this forum and community we can all get the right answers.
 
Too bad those panels dont line up as access panels for the oil filter and drain plug. My GR86 had one specifically for the oil plug access. Two bolts to remove to pivot sub panel for access instead of the 20 or so required for the entire panel.
This 💯
Why lotus couldn't add an access panel for oil changes is beyond me.
The under tray is such a pain in the d*ick!
 
Yea, those panels are definitely missing. I would get that replaced.
 
another Q i have re: oil filter drain plug..... i know why it's there but .... i just plan on dropping the oil filter onto my foam lined oil drain pan below my lift on each oil changes...I don't ever want to open the drain plug.... Is there any contraindications to NOT touching the drain plug ? i mean, yah , might be a bit more messy but..., i'm gonna clean the oil filter housing and wipe it further with brake cleaner etc... is it ok to never touch this plug ? one of my mechanic friend was saying that i should change the rubber gasket so that it won't leak there, etc BUT if I never open it ever, why would it leak.... ?!?

as to filling the oil, my plan is to use the clear plexiglass portion of the funnel , screwed into the filler hole, THEN , use the curved/offset funnel into the plexiglass extension and dump my oil in through it.... , it apparently won't overflow no matter how fast the funnel flows oil into it so.....

any comments would be appreciated...

james R
'24 hethel yellow; 280 miles
first oil change planned at 1000 miles/break in oil
 
another Q i have re: oil filter drain plug..... i know why it's there but .... i just plan on dropping the oil filter onto my foam lined oil drain pan below my lift on each oil changes...I don't ever want to open the drain plug.... Is there any contraindications to NOT touching the drain plug ? i mean, yah , might be a bit more messy but..., i'm gonna clean the oil filter housing and wipe it further with brake cleaner etc... is it ok to never touch this plug ? one of my mechanic friend was saying that i should change the rubber gasket so that it won't leak there, etc BUT if I never open it ever, why would it leak.... ?!?

as to filling the oil, my plan is to use the clear plexiglass portion of the funnel , screwed into the filler hole, THEN , use the curved/offset funnel into the plexiglass extension and dump my oil in through it.... , it apparently won't overflow no matter how fast the funnel flows oil into it so.....

any comments would be appreciated...

james R
'24 hethel yellow; 280 miles
first oil change planned at 1000 miles/break in oil
The oil pan is below the oil filter housing. You must open the drain plug on the pan in order to get the old oil out, it won't all come out the oil filter housing.
 
On bikes it's much more common to see (and on track, require) safety wire because the engine is often a stressed member, and the whole bike is being flung in different directions repeatedly creating side-loads through the powertrain, so the stresses being transmitted from part to part can lead to fasteners backing out.

In a road car the powertrain is largely free from any direct loads/stresses other than its own power delivery.
Thank you. With this new knowledge, I am a better person than before.
 
The oil pan is below the oil filter housing. You must open the drain plug on the pan in order to get the old oil out, it won't all come out the oil filter housing.
I think he meant the oil filter cartridge drain plug.

another Q i have re: oil filter drain plug..... i know why it's there but .... i just plan on dropping the oil filter onto my foam lined oil drain pan below my lift on each oil changes...I don't ever want to open the drain plug.... Is there any contraindications to NOT touching the drain plug ? i mean, yah , might be a bit more messy but..., i'm gonna clean the oil filter housing and wipe it further with brake cleaner etc... is it ok to never touch this plug ? one of my mechanic friend was saying that i should change the rubber gasket so that it won't leak there, etc BUT if I never open it ever, why would it leak.... ?!?

as to filling the oil, my plan is to use the clear plexiglass portion of the funnel , screwed into the filler hole, THEN , use the curved/offset funnel into the plexiglass extension and dump my oil in through it.... , it apparently won't overflow no matter how fast the funnel flows oil into it so.....

any comments would be appreciated...

james R
'24 hethel yellow; 280 miles
first oil change planned at 1000 miles/break in oil

You don’t have to remove the oil filter cartridge drain plug if you don’t want to. It will just be a bit messier .

A lot of mechanics skip this step and they rarely change that o-ring. Even if the drain plug wasn’t there it wouldn’t leak because there is a check valve under it that has to be pressed to let oil out. The plug is just there to protect the valve and as a secondary safety measure should the valve fail.

With that being said, I do drain the filter before replacing it and I do change that o-ring.
 
Anyone know how to reset the service due in the instrument cluster?
Page 217 of full handbook manual.
Resetting the Service Reminder
– Set the vehicle in ignition mode 1(Convenience), see page .
– Press and hold the reset button located on the end of light switch, see page 146.
– With the reset button still pressed, start the engine, see page 183.
– After 10 seconds with the reset button still pressed, the wrench symbol will flash.
– Release the reset button within 4 seconds of the wrench symbol beginning to flash.
 
do you have the touring mode? Mine is missing the panels for the 2 openings. I have the sport.
I have sport and those are covered by a piece that bolts to the engine cover and diffuser, seen here in bottom left.
1000001392.jpg
 
The filter cartridge plug on mine is on really tight. I couldn't get it undone and didn't have a strap wrench handy so I just left it on. The entire filter cartridge was only hand tight on the car. I was able to unscrew it with my hands without much effort. It wasn't too much trouble to use my normal plastic baggie routine to keep things clean so I don't know if I will ever bother with the cartridge drain plug.
 

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