Stock Emira Wheels and Tires

[GRP]

I’m also interested in knowing the thread length. I will be converting to wheel studs and it would help me calculate what stud lengths will work with different offsets. Appreciate you checking this out for us.

We have studs or bolts available to suit stock wheels or with spacers.

 

[Liquid Hot Magma]

We have studs or bolts available to suit stock wheels or with spacers.

Thanks @GRP. I’m looking at the titanium stud kit on your website. Can you machine custom lengths?

 

[Speedy Emira]

Thanks @GRP. I’m looking at the titanium stud kit on your website. Can you machine custom lengths?

What the advantage of the titanium fittings other than weight?

 

[Eagle7]

What the advantage of the titanium fittings other than weight?

That's it mostly, although the amount saved is very small. There are two benefits from removing weight on the hubs/brakes/wheels. One is unsprung rotating weight. It's the most beneficial to remove because it makes it easier for the wheels to start rotating. I've seen different opinions as to how much benefit; some say it's like removing 4 times the static weight from the car, and some say it's like removing 10 times the weight. Whatever the ratio is, if you remove at least 5 lbs per wheel, you can feel it.

The other benefit is you're also removing static weight from the wheels. This helps improve the response time of the springs and shocks (dampers) in controlling vertical movement of the wheel.

Just replacing the stock lug bolts by themselves with titanium isn't enough of a weight difference that you would even notice it on a street build. If you're doing it for performance reasons, the cost doesn't really justify the return on the investment. They're not cheap. I've seen sets going for anywhere from $200 to $1,000 with all kinds of claimed benefits. On a dedicated race car, sure, but not on a street car.

I'm going to get a set of torx head titanium lug bolts mostly because I can afford it, and I like the way they look. Whatever difference the few ounces of weight saved makes, that's just a bonus.

Here's the style I'm looking at:

 

[JonFuller]

They're nice! Who is the supplier?

Assume the taper angle is correct?

 

[Time2Fly]

They're nice! Who is the supplier?

Assume the taper angle is correct?

Well he's the supplier here.

 

[Eagle7]

They're nice! Who is the supplier?

Assume the taper angle is correct?

I'm not sure about the length yet, but these are the ones:

Rison Titanium Torx Head Lug Bolts M12x1.25/1.5x28mm 20PCS

Titanium Torx Head Lug Bolts Screws M12x1.25/1.5x28mm 20 Pcs, 6AL4V Aerospace GR5 Cone Seat Lug Bolts,Quality Assurance,Prompt Delivery,Low Price,UltraLight

ti-alloys.com

I'm planning on getting a set of wheels from Aerie, so these should look really good with them.

 

[GRP]

Thanks @GRP. I’m looking at the titanium stud kit on your website. Can you machine custom lengths?

What length are you looking for?
We just have the two lengths available but the shorter option should be good for oem wheels with no spacers or small 6mm spacers.

 

[JonFuller]

I'm on a flight to Portugal 1st thing tomorrow morning, if it can wait till thursday when I am back, I can do it then.

Sorry, forgot that I said I would do this.

Here you go.....

Hard to be precise, but taper seat appears to be 61 degrees.

I am assuming they measure the thread length from the bottom of the taper, making the stock bolts about 32mm, but I don't know this for sure. A CSK bolt/screw length is measured from face of head, to tip (ie, overall length), so I really don't know. Those Titanium bolts are quoted as 28mm, would be nice to see a rule next to one.

EDIT: picture shows, thread is 28mm to bottom of taper, so they're probably ok, certainly for stock wheels without spacers.

 

[FlyNavy01]

It's almost certainly a 60 degree conical design, that's the most common for passenger cars.

I'll likely get GRP's titanium stud conversion kit. I despise lug bolts and much prefer lug nuts/studs, as it makes changing wheels MUCH easier. The titanium set saving ~0.5lbs per corner is a nice (albeit almost negligible) bonus.

 

[kitkat]

Y'all trust titanium hardware?

 

[JonFuller]

Y'all trust titanium hardware?

The Aerospace industry seems to like it. 5 of M12 fasteners is quite an attachment,

I'd bet you could hang a good few tons off that quintet.

Besides, according to some, my dodgy Chinese forged wheels are probably going to disintegrate long before the wheel bolts let go.

 

[GRP]

Y'all trust titanium hardware?

We have been selling our stud kits for a few years now and have had zero issues although If the car will be tracked a good amount its advisable to use steel studs and swap them out annually or bi-annually depending on how many times they have been torqued as Im sure you know/do anyways.

 

[Time2Fly]

Thanks for getting those extended lug bolts to match, Greg!

 

[JonFuller]

It's also interesting that the stock bolts have the taper part as a separate collar (they spin freely on the bolt), presumably meaning the friction likely happens between the harder steel faces, and not graunching the steel taper into the alloy wheel tapered seat.

 

[Liquid Hot Magma]

What length are you looking for?
We just have the two lengths available but the shorter option should be good for oem wheels with no spacers or small 6mm spacers.

@GRP I was thinking shorter, but thanks to a visual confirmation on lug bolt length from @JonFuller, I think your 66 mm set will do nicely. I was basing my calculations on a 25.4 mm thread length. Difficulties of modding a car without actually having one.

Sorry, forgot that I said I would do this.

Here you go.....

Hard to be precise, but taper seat appears to be 61 degrees.

I am assuming they measure the thread length from the bottom of the taper, making the stock bolts about 32mm, but I don't know this for sure. A CSK bolt/screw length is measured from face of head, to tip (ie, overall length), so I really don't know. Those Titanium bolts are quoted as 28mm, would be nice to see a rule next to one.

EDIT: picture shows, thread is 28mm to bottom of taper, so they're probably ok, certainly for stock wheels without spacers.

Thanks @JonFuller for those pictures! Greatly appreciated.

 

[JonFuller]

I just looked at the GRP studs on their site. The threaded portion that screws into the hub looks very short, only 10 or so threads. Is that the thickness of the material they're screwing into? ie, pointless being any longer?

 

[Time2Fly]

It's also interesting that the stock bolts have the taper part as a separate collar (they spin loosely on the bolt), presumably meaning the friction likely happens between the harder steel faces, and not graunching the steel taper into the alloy wheel tapered seat.

That's a great feature to have instead of grinding down my powder coat.

 

[JonFuller]

I think I'd avoid powder coat, or any kind of paint coat on the tapered seats. It will very likely crumble and crack under the super load of a taper bolt going in, and could end up coming loose as a result. (powder coat is quite thick & hard/brittle)

When looking at clear-coating my new wheels (thought they were going to come as satin, or matt finish), I bought a box of 20mm diam wooden balls, intending to drop one into each of the tapered seats as a simple way to mask them when spraying. But when they sent a pic of my wheels finished, they appear to already be a gloss finish.

Gotta find another use for the wooden balls now!

I'm an expert at peaking a bit too early!

At least that's what my Mrs says.

 

[GRP]

I just looked at the GRP studs on their site. The threaded portion that screws into the hub looks very short, only 10 or so threads. Is that the thickness of the material they're screwing into? ie, pointless being any longer?

Thats correct. The hub flange thickness is only that thick so its pointless to make them any longer in that area.
This is the reason you dont want to get too long of bolts if you go the bolt route --they can thread too far in and make contact with the hub/bearing housing.