Who has Milltek's Active Controller Installed?

[LuckysDad]

For those of you that purchased Milltek's Active Valve Controller.
Was it worth it?
Was it easy to install?

 

[gottspd]

Can you let me know when you have them in?

 

[GRP]

Can you let me know when you have them in?

If you can shoot us an email we can do that.
[email protected]
Thanks!

 

[GRP]

For those of you that purchased Milltek's Active Valve Controller.
Was it worth it?
Was it easy to install?

Obviously we sell these but we also have one installed on the shop car so I ca speak from experience as well.
Install is pretty easy -- 4/10 job.
Removing the diffuser panel is the hardest part
Then the unit just plugs right in, no extra power wires etc to run. It "T's" into the factory valve control harness.
Then route and zip tie the wiring over towards the drivers side wheel well along the black diffuser trim so it cant be seen behind the mesh.
Ziptie the control unit up behind the wheel liner
Reinstall the diffuser panel and done.
The unit is all wirelessly controlled.

When we were first testing our decat pipe we were almost a bit disappointed in the lack of startup and idle sound compared to the Evora because of the electronic exhaust valve, this kit solved that and makes it sound like a sports car when you fire it up, at idle and cruising around.

 

[Joel]

Has anyone installed this themselves? How hard is it? Did you need to lift the car to do so? Is it hard to get to the valve actuator once the diffuser is off?

 

[LuckysDad]

Has anyone installed this themselves? How hard is it? Did you need to lift the car to do so? Is it hard to get to the valve actuator once the diffuser is off?

I did both the Milltek Valve Controller and @GRP cat delete myself when I did the break-in oil change.
The actual install of both devices is very easy and straightforward.
The hardest part was dealing with all those bolts holding the diffuser and under tray up. Getting them to line back up when re-installing took the most time and frustration. Especially where the diffuser and under tray bolt together.
I have a lift. But it can be done with a good pair of jack stands or wheel cribs and a creeper.

 

[LuckysDad]

I'll add that it's worthwhile to do both as the sound is, as others have said, transformative.

 

[ef_arime]

Has anyone installed this themselves? How hard is it? Did you need to lift the car to do so? Is it hard to get to the valve actuator once the diffuser is off?

I just installed GRP's 3rd cat delete pipe and the Milltek Valve Controller without the use of a lift. I had a couple of cheap ramps that I used to raise the rear end. For me, the most challenging part was getting one of the ten 7mm hex bolts for the diffusor inserted into place. After an hour of trying and a couple of pointless trips to the hardware store, I threw in the towel and applied some gorilla tape. Next time I'm at the dealer for formal maintenance, I'll have them sort that out.

As everyone has said, it's a welcomed change to the exhaust note. Reprogram one of the Homelink buttons to open up the valves for that rowdy sound and the other to return things back to OEM mode. Absolutely worth it. (Thank you @GRP!)

 

[itsnightime]

Anyone has issues with installing the Miltek controller? Installed Greg’s cat delete but when the miltek controller is plugged in, it goes into limp mode . I ended up removing the miltek controller and keeping the decats and the code went away.

 

[Sentinel]

Anyone has issues with installing the Miltek controller? Installed Greg’s cat delete but when the miltek controller is plugged in, it goes into limp mode . I ended up removing the miltek controller and keeping the decats and the code went away.

were you running the valve force closed?

 

[itsnightime]

were you running the valve force closed?

I tried both fully open and OEM, button 1 and 3.

 

[Sentinel]

I tried both fully open and OEM, button 1 and 3.

Very strange then. First I've heard of this particular problem with the valve controller. A few people have received modules with incorrect wiring which has caused the buttons to correspond to different settings, but havent seen any other errors reported anywhere and havent had any problems myself.

Does it happen immediately upon starting the car or only after driving for a while? Any particular triggers? (hard pull in sport mode for example).

 

[itsnightime]

Very strange then. First I've heard of this particular problem with the valve controller. A few people have received modules with incorrect wiring which has caused the buttons to correspond to different settings, but havent seen any other errors reported anywhere and havent had any problems myself.

Does it happen immediately upon starting the car or only after driving for a while? Any particular triggers? (hard pull in sport mode for example).

It triggered about 1 minutes after installing. Then I tried clearing it and it would pop back up within a few seconds while idle.

If the valves were closed, would it give this error? In case the wires were wired incorrectly from Miltek.

 

[Sentinel]

It triggered about 1 minutes after installing. Then I tried clearing it and it would pop back up within a few seconds while idle.

If the valves were closed, would it give this error? In case the wires were wired incorrectly from Miltek.

The module is supposed to return an OK signal for "valve reached commanded position" to bypass P1018. P1016 is a different code but not sure of the lotus definition for that particular PID. Chances are its related though.

My gut feeling is you have a faulty controller from Milltek.

 

[Go Kart]

I tried both fully open and OEM, button 1 and 3.

OEM is #2 on the valve controller I installed, and fully closed is #3. #1 is fully open and is very apparent. #2 and #3 aren’t really distinguishable unless you rev the engine a bit.

You should try playing with the throttle in Tour Mode only on buttons #2 and #3. The sound gets throatier in the upper rev range for the OEM setting, and does not get louder on the fully closed setting.

 

[Sentinel]

OEM is #2 on the valve controller I installed, and fully closed is #3. #1 is fully open and is very apparent. #2 and #3 aren’t really distinguishable unless you rev the engine a bit.

You should try playing with the throttle in Tour Mode only on buttons #2 and #3. The sound gets throatier in the upper rev range for the OEM setting, and does not get louder on the fully closed setting.

You should never drive with the valve forced fully closed. There is risk of engine damage from excess backpressure. Even Milltek’s website says this.

 

[KCMO68_510]

You should never drive with the valve forced fully closed. There is risk of engine damage from excess backpressure. Even Milltek’s website says this.

Shouldn't it just not be an option then? Like it should just have two settings?

 

[Blackthought_]

Shouldn't it just not be an option then? Like it should just have two settings?

I think the point of the being able to force the valve closed is when your driving back in your neighborhood and don’t want to disturb the neighbors etc

 

[itsnightime]

But either way with closed, it should not be throwing errors. Is that correct? Just trying to figure out why it’s doing the limp mode.

 

[Go Kart]

You should never drive with the valve forced fully closed. There is risk of engine damage from excess backpressure. Even Milltek’s website says this.

I never said “drive”… I tested the buttons in the driveway at no higher than 4000 rpm revving with short spurts.

Considering a lot of these buttons are programmed differently I don’t see any other way to distinguish them.

 

[Speedy Emira]

I think the point of the being able to force the valve closed is when your driving back in your neighborhood and don’t want to disturb the neighbors etc

I do exactly that just before I turned into my cul de sac and coast to my drive.