Who here has tracked their Emira?

Blackthought_

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Anyone here track their Emira? If so, did you track the car 100% stock or did you upgrade parts? Particularly interested if you changed out the brake fluid, pads, tires, etc.
 
Just returned from a track day at Summit Point and have some comments and observations. For background I have raced formula cars and sports racing cars for many years and am very familiar with the track. In the first session I went out with the stock tire pressures 29 front, 32 rear. After the session the tires were 35 front and 40 rear. I was shocked, but I don’t really have experience with driving a car this heavy….formula car would increase 2-3 psi. The rear of the car moved around a lt under breaking. Dropped the pressures to 32-34 hot and the car was generally much better but still squirrelly in the rear. Has anyone else had a pressure increase of this magnitude?
With the rear moving around so much my first thought is there is too much rear brake bias. Not adjustable as far as I know. Anyone else have this issue? In general the car is pretty neutral and turns in well. I have the touring suspension and different shocks and some shock tuning could substantially increase the handling qualities on the track.
Yes, had the same thing on both the original F1 and the Cup 2 I fitted (not LTS version). Hot pressures could jump a lot. I don’t remember exactly, but the rise was significant. First session with F1 and the pressures jumped at least 8psi.

At 1 stage I brought the (cold) pressures down a bit too much and I didn’t like the feeling (Cup 2). For me at least, I think a hot pressure about 3psi (circa 0.2bar) higher than stock pressures at the end of the session felt best to me, (circa 3psi under stock at the beginning, but tyres wouldn’t be completely cold).

The outside of my front left tyre (Cup 2) was getting quite a bit hotter (more pressure rise too) than the rest and getting more chewed up too. Can’t figure out why. I recently slightly lowered my I4 Emira (moving shock circlips on standard shock), so will have to check the Geo. I’ve now swapped the cup 2 left to right (apparently, it’s recommended).
 
Let us know how you like the Endless pads and fluid. I have a friend who swears by both.
I will, but need to bed everything back in properly this time. The brakes were a mess before skimming the front discs, but touch wood, I think we’re gonna be good now after the skim.

Is it recommended to swap in more aggressive pads at the track, or is that a bad idea?
 
Here is an old autocross trick to find your track tire pressures:

There are small triangles around the outside edge of the tread that point to the wear bars. They are also conveniently located at the seam between the tread and sidewall. Rub some chalk along the shoulder of each tire in several places, so you can see the fresh wear. Adjust the pressures so that the wear is just at the top of the triangles. This is near optimum for performance and then you can make small adjustments from there for balance and feel.
 
Here is an old autocross trick to find your track tire pressures:

There are small triangles around the outside edge of the tread that point to the wear bars. They are also conveniently located at the seam between the tread and sidewall. Rub some chalk along the shoulder of each tire in several places, so you can see the fresh wear. Adjust the pressures so that the wear is just at the top of the triangles. This is near optimum for performance and then you can make small adjustments from there for balance and feel.
This is a great tip!
 
My first time at Mugello!!!!


It was last Sunday (two days ago), I'm nothing close to a racing driver and I was quite intimidated as well, to be on the safe side I've installed EBC BlueStuff and changed the brake fluid with castrol SRF, no fade at all!

All the rest is stock with touring suspensions and Continental tires, I've lowered a bit the pressure and they were better but, as far as I can feel, they did well even before lowering the pressure.
 
Alcon discs and bells up front. Now to build a rear bell.
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Original discs are not up to track work, no discs that have holes are. That’s why race teams don’t have discs with drilled holes.
You can see how destroyed my fronts are after three hard track days.
Lotus won’t entertain a conversation about upgrades so I am going it alone to make it work.
Not looking for increased braking just discs that don’t fall apart.
 

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Original discs are not up to track work, no discs that have holes are. That’s why race teams don’t have discs with drilled holes.
You can see how destroyed my fronts are after three hard track days.
Lotus won’t entertain a conversation about upgrades so I am going it alone to make it work.
Not looking for increased braking just discs that don’t fall apart.

Will they entertain a conversation about replacements? Because that should be covered under warranty.

"The standard 3-year warranty covers every component of your Lotus Emira – from the mechanical elements to the interior materials. There is no mileage limitation so feel free to drive as much as you want."
 
Original discs are not up to track work, no discs that have holes are. That’s why race teams don’t have discs with drilled holes.
You can see how destroyed my fronts are after three hard track days.
Lotus won’t entertain a conversation about upgrades so I am going it alone to make it work.
Not looking for increased braking just discs that don’t fall apart.
Thanks for the info. What did a set of these run you for the front? I guess you’d get away with the OEM on the rear?

I skimmed my front discs, they were vibrating badly after I’d trashed the OEM pads and swapped in some Endles mx72 pads. I suspect I had left lots of residue from the OEM pads. So far, the skim seems to have fixed the vibration, but they need to be bedded in yet.
 
My OEM rears are beginning to crack as well. Front hubs are the same as Evora 400 series so availability is easy that end. Nobody that I can find has yet produced a rear bell. I am about to send off a rear disc to get a suitable bell manufactured.
The front discs are £1290 with bells. A replacement disc pair is £600 next time though as bells will remain.
 
My OEM rears are beginning to crack as well. Front hubs are the same as Evora 400 series so availability is easy that end. Nobody that I can find has yet produced a rear bell. I am about to send off a rear disc to get a suitable bell manufactured.
The front discs are £1290 with bells. A replacement disc pair is £600 next time though as bells will remain.
That’s not too bad. OEM are similar price I believe (at least they are here). When it come time, I’ll look to the aftermarket for replacements (y)
 
Replace the pads back to stock before you bring it to the dealer
That will happen, I am away now until December so allow them some time to stew over the very long email I sent detailing why drilled discs are not suitable for any car unless it sits in a garage doing nothing.
 

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