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DIY - Oil Change Reference for 2GR-FE

I put six full US quarts in and my dipstick shows the oil level halfway between the two dots. Should I order another quart of the Pennzoil 0W-40 to get it up to the full dot?

It seems like everyone was good with just the six quarts. Maybe it’s more like 6.5 quarts to fill it completely full?
 
I put six full US quarts in and my dipstick shows the oil level halfway between the two dots. Should I order another quart of the Pennzoil 0W-40 to get it up to the full dot?

It seems like everyone was good with just the six quarts. Maybe it’s more like 6.5 quarts to fill it completely full?
It’s supposed to go the middle of the dipstick in between the 2 holes
 
Is there an oil pressure gauge hidden somewhere? I scrolled through all the options and didn’t see one.
 
No oil pressure gauge, but it's 6.3qt (6L)
 
Car only comes with a dummy oil pressure switch, no real oil pressure sensor.
Watching the oil pressure gauge after an oil change helps with my OCD. I will just have to rely on the dummy oil pressure switch to tell me if something is wrong.
 
I picked up my oil filters and crush washers at my local Toyota dealer. If you buy more than three the price is 4.50/ea for the filter. For $38 I got six of each.
 
For those who like Pennzoil, they have a promotion going:


I've used it once a year for the last two years.

I buy (2)-5-quart bottles at Walmart, submit the rebate form online, then select a $25.00 gift card at Walmart once approved. Approval takes a month or so. Many other options are available.
 
Question for those who have done their oil change on their Emira. The bigger 10mm bolts tighten up nice and tight, but I’ve noticed that none of the 7mm ones do. You guys experience this? It’ll get somewhat tight but not like 10mm ones do. I’m sure it’s more than adequate but wanted to see if others experienced the same thing.
 
@kitkat Cut a whole, weld a piece of 1.5" stock to overlap the opening and then quarter turn dzus fasteners to make it removable? Or weld/rivet on some nuts?

If you go through with it would you mind providing location measurements?
 
@kitkat Cut a whole, weld a piece of 1.5" stock to overlap the opening and then quarter turn dzus fasteners to make it removable? Or weld/rivet on some nuts?

If you go through with it would you mind providing location measurements?
I was thinking another idea is cabinet hinges on one side then something to attach on the other side.
 
@kitkat Cut a whole, weld a piece of 1.5" stock to overlap the opening and then quarter turn dzus fasteners to make it removable? Or weld/rivet on some nuts?

If you go through with it would you mind providing location measurements?

I was thinking of just cutting a hole and then cutting a piece of aluminum that’s bigger by about an inch — drill holes and place clips just like the stock one attaches to up near the rear of the massive shield.
 
Performed 1st oil change at 700 miles. After reading this thread, I had a good understanding of how to do it and everything went as advertised.

A couple of tips...

1. If you don't already have one get a Cordless Ratchet, battery and charger. ($125 for all three). This makes taking out the Gazillion 10mm and 7mm bolts much faster and easier. Just be carful not to over torque the 7mm bolts when reinstalling.

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.28.38.png

2. I used genuine toyota filter and drain bolt gasket.

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.33.13.pngScreenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.34.20.png

3. I used a Spurtar oil filter housing removal tool. Made removing the filter housing a snap.

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.38.16.png

4. Having an offset funnel is a necessity!Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.44.55.png

5. Lastly installing a magnetic drain plug is cheap insurance.

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.47.52.png

6. Finally reseting the service interval was a bit anticlimactic. It doesn't show or indicate the reset as being confirmed. It just resets to 360 days if you follow these instructions on page 187 of the owners manual.

Screenshot 2024-09-09 at 16.52.05.png
 
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Performed 1st oil change at 700 miles. After reading this thread, I had a good understanding of how to do it and everything went as advertised.

A couple of tips...

1. If you don't already have one get a Cordless Ratchet, battery and charger. ($125 for all three). This makes taking out the Gazillion 10mm and 7mm bolts much faster and easier. Just be carful not to over torque the 7mm bolts when reinstalling.

View attachment 51345
I have the ratchet and its great but very easy to over torque to 30ft lbs til it stops. If you have it set to tighten by mistake on a small fastener you'll regret it. (Done that more than once) I'd highly recommend their M12 cordless screwdriver/driver (or similar brand if have batteries for that brand). It has variable max torque settings so you dont accidently strip screws and small bolts out. For the undertrays I used about a '3-6' setting on the tool then go back and finish tightening them by hand.
Amazon link
 
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