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Does anyone have GRPs Spacers?

LuckysDad

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Does anyone have @GRP 10mm spacers?
Do you experience any vibration?
I'm concerned about them not having a lip.
 
Does anyone have @GRP 10mm spacers?
Do you experience any vibration?
I'm concerned about them not having a lip.
I installed the 6 mm GRP (BOE) spacers together with the V2 Aerie forged wheels and Cup 2's and titanium bolts and nuts from GRP,

Very happy with the dynamics. No vibration at all
IMG_2467.jpeg
 
Yes. Got 10mm on all 4 corners. No probs with guards scrapping. I will fit nitrons soon and drop it 15mm without any probs. It completely got rid of that annoying initial front end dive when you turn into curves or corners. Get the 20mm bolts. Worth every penny.
 
Yes. Got 10mm on all 4 corners. No probs with guards scrapping. I will fit nitrons soon and drop it 15mm without any probs. It completely got rid of that annoying initial front end dive when you turn into curves or corners. Get the 20mm bolts. Worth every penny.
Currently I have the Nitrons with 15mm drop, Aerie wheels on the way and I will be ordering the GRP 10mm spacers with 20mm bolts this evening.(y)
 
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I have the grp lowering kit with their 10mm spacers and have vibration at 70-75+ mph. I will have to give a try to the komotec H&R one.
My guess is that you aren't manually centering the wheel using the twist method as you put these in. The 10 mm and lower spacers don't have a hubcentric ring so you are losing the hubcentricity of the wheel by using them.

It's no big deal to lose that, it just makes it a slightly more process focused task to put the wheels on. You can't just throw the bolts in and snug them down the way you do with the stock wheel scenario, because there's no ring to hang the wheel at center. You can very easily get the wheel slightly out of center.

While finger-tightening down the bolts you go in a star pattern and then twist the wheel back and forth radially several times to re-center the wheel (shifting the wheel on the bolts) as you snug the lug bolts up progressively. I usually take two or three passes to do this, getting additional turns of various lugs (with finger effort only) as the centering of the wheel gets more and more correct.

Give it a try. I suspect it may sort your issues.
 
My guess is that you aren't manually centering the wheel using the twist method as you put these in. The 10 mm and lower spacers don't have a hubcentric ring so you are losing the hubcentricity of the wheel by using them.

It's no big deal to lose that, it just makes it a slightly more process focused task to put the wheels on. You can't just throw the bolts in and snug them down the way you do with the stock wheel scenario, because there's no ring to hang the wheel at center. You can very easily get the wheel slightly out of center.

While finger-tightening down the bolts you go in a star pattern and then twist the wheel back and forth radially several times to re-center the wheel (shifting the wheel on the bolts) as you snug the lug bolts up progressively. I usually take two or three passes to do this, getting additional turns of various lugs (with finger effort only) as the centering of the wheel gets more and more correct.

Give it a try. I suspect it may sort your issues.

I used to have to use this method as well on the BMW with a 7.5mm spacer to clear struts with track tires. It's not a fun process to get them perfectly aligned but it works. Eventually someone developed a hub extender and spacer combo that made for a 7.5mm spacer with a hub lip - but I don't think those are possible with the Lotus.
 
I used to have to use this method as well on the BMW with a 7.5mm spacer to clear struts with track tires. It's not a fun process to get them perfectly aligned but it works. Eventually someone developed a hub extender and spacer combo that made for a 7.5mm spacer with a hub lip - but I don't think those are possible with the Lotus.
87A8A9F8-7374-45A8-92E3-EAB3593CB8DD.png

Those look better quality.
 
My guess is that you aren't manually centering the wheel using the twist method as you put these in. The 10 mm and lower spacers don't have a hubcentric ring so you are losing the hubcentricity of the wheel by using them.

It's no big deal to lose that, it just makes it a slightly more process focused task to put the wheels on. You can't just throw the bolts in and snug them down the way you do with the stock wheel scenario, because there's no ring to hang the wheel at center. You can very easily get the wheel slightly out of center.

While finger-tightening down the bolts you go in a star pattern and then twist the wheel back and forth radially several times to re-center the wheel (shifting the wheel on the bolts) as you snug the lug bolts up progressively. I usually take two or three passes to do this, getting additional turns of various lugs (with finger effort only) as the centering of the wheel gets more and more correct.

Give it a try. I suspect it may sort your issues.
I always try to slowly tighten the bolts that are opposed one after the other and think the wheel should center itself at the end. Thanks for the reply.
 
Just installed the GRP lowering kit and the 10mm spacers. From seeing other guys with the lowering kit, I thought it was not going to be low enough. But once they settled, I think it is the perfect amount when you max out 25mm. The horrible wheel gap is gone.

The spacers on the other hand have been a nightmare to install. The fact that they are not hub centric make them nearly impossible to install. They even had the master technician at the dealer attempt it and he failed as well. I reported the issue to Greg at GRP and in typical Greg style, he responded right away with additional instructions. But still no luck!

The wheel vibration at 65mph+ is very noticeable so I had them take it out. Still had to pay for the install of course :(

I connected with Greg once again and reported the issue and was told they are working on a 12mm hubcentric spacer.

So learn from my mistake and my lighter wallet and hold off until the new spacer is ready. I also think 12mm is going to be much better as the 10mm still leaves a noticeable poke even when lowered.
 

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