GRP Short Shifter Install Notes and My thoughts

I would just make a mental note of how many turns it takes from initial engagement to fully inserted and maybe not back off more than 40% of the turns so that there is plenty of thread remaining engaged.
Thanks for the advice. Knowing how much thread is left should lighten mental stress contributing to the shifter stalk ED 😆

You are asking for trouble. The stud that the GRP eyelet mounts to is fixed in place by the same nut that holds down the eyelet. So if you remove the eyelet, that stud may fall out?
I did consider that, but think the stud will be trapped in place if the nut is removed after the unit is pushed on to the bell crank. However, since it is cold ;) the chances of nut fumbling and nut loss increase. I dunno, guess it will depend on the weather and how I'm feeling that day. I'll figure it out. As you have pointed out, the important thing is to make sure your stalk stands proud before reinstalling the cotter pin.
 
As mentioned above, I do the same and adjust it visually by looking through the rear window at the shifter and then verify by sitting in the car and giving it a little test before locking everything down.
Having the shifter in the 100% exact position isn't critical but you want it as close as possible.
 
  • Thread Starter
  • Thread starter
  • #23
Man.. Wish I knew all this before doing the install. I messaged Greg on FB, but didn't hear back and didn't think to message him here.. Prob should have.

I think my friend is fine with where it is for now.. He hasn't complained yet.. so I won't be bringing it up, but if I do my own then I am def going to be looking through the window to check where the shifter is and adjust that way.

Thanks for all the info guys.

Ryan G
 
Man.. Wish I knew all this before doing the install. I messaged Greg on FB, but didn't hear back and didn't think to message him here.. Prob should have.

I think my friend is fine with where it is for now.. He hasn't complained yet.. so I won't be bringing it up, but if I do my own then I am def going to be looking through the window to check where the shifter is and adjust that way.

Thanks for all the info guys.

Ryan G
I dont use FB messenger for business, sorry. Email is the way.
 
Thanks to @RyanGphoto for starting this informative thread. I have learned a lot. Other than dropping the OEM eyelet into the abyss (will have it retrieved next visit to the dealer for an oil change), the install went smoothly. Attached is my contribution to those who are worried about "messing up the neutral position". Worked perfectly for me.

PXL_20241219_033752897.PORTRAIT.jpg

I can fabricate these for $500USD each + shipping for those interested. Yeah, the cost may seem steep, but there's a lot of manual work involved in the manufacturing process...
 
Last edited:
You are asking for trouble. The stud that the GRP eyelet mounts to is fixed in place by the same nut that holds down the eyelet. So if you remove the eyelet, that stud may fall out? It's easy enough to kind of put the short shift adapter in place without installing the cotter pin, and take it off to unscrew it a few turns to adjust. I would just make a mental note of how many turns it takes from initial engagement to fully inserted and maybe not back off more than 40% of the turns so that there is plenty of thread remaining engaged.

Another adjustment point would be the shifter stalk attachment. You can maybe back off a few turns there. These few millimeters will add up and hopefully get to the right length to cure the shifter stalk ED.
Can GRP weigh in here and provide some professional advice to those of us who have purchased this product??!!
 
Thanks for the advice. Knowing how much thread is left should lighten mental stress contributing to the shifter stalk ED 😆


I did consider that, but think the stud will be trapped in place if the nut is removed after the unit is pushed on to the bell crank. However, since it is cold ;) the chances of nut fumbling and nut loss increase. I dunno, guess it will depend on the weather and how I'm feeling that day. I'll figure it out. As you have pointed out, the important thing is to make sure your stalk stands proud before reinstalling the cotter pin.
My stalk used to stand proud before my prostate removal.....now it just droops.
 
Thanks to @RyanGphoto for starting this informative thread. I have learned a lot. Other than dropping the OEM eyelet into the abyss (will have it retrieved next visit to the dealer for an oil change), the install went smoothly. Attached is my contribution to those who are worried about "messing up the neutral position". Worked perfectly for me.

View attachment 56346
I can fabricate these for $500USD each + shipping for those interested. Yeah, the cost may seem steep, but there's a lot of manual work involved in the manufacturing process...
I mean it’s meticulously hand crafted.
 
Thanks to this post I revised my install to return the shifter to neutral. I ended up having to back off screwing the eyelet in ALOT.

At first install I tried to screw the eyelet in all the way to match the OEM green markings. Then I noticed that the shifter was indeed rear biased.

I took the short shifter unit off completely and ended up only screwing it in 5 turns before locking it with the nut. A very different length and now my gear level is in the middle of the gearbox. Still a bit shifted to the right but I think that’s for another reason. North south at least it is centered. And I find that the shifting feel is ever so slightly improved. Enjoying the shirt shifter even more now. Thanks for highlighting this!
 
Can GRP weigh in here and provide some professional advice to those of us who have purchased this product??!!
When installing I prefer to leave the assembly together as we ship it and spin it onto the cable so there is no risk of dropping the bolt out of the short shifter body etc.
Thread it onto the cable, place it onto the bellcrank and check the shifter positioning -- remove and loosen or tighten further on the shift cable as needed before final install with the circlip.
 
Just installed the short shifter a couple of days ago. It was a pretty straight forward process, but I also need to Dremel the aluminum connector part off a little for it to seat properly.

I played around with the shifter cable length and adjusted the neutral position slightly forward to my liking. I haven't test drove the car yet, but based on shifting the gears stationary, the short shifter does make diagonal shifts much easier (2 - 3, 4 - 5).
 
Just installed the short shifter a couple of days ago. It was a pretty straight forward process, but I also need to Dremel the aluminum connector part off a little for it to seat properly.

I played around with the shifter cable length and adjusted the neutral position slightly forward to my liking. I haven't test drove the car yet, but based on shifting the gears stationary, the short shifter does make diagonal shifts much easier (2 - 3, 4 - 5).
Agreed diagonal shifts are one action now not up and over.
 

Create an account or login to comment

Join now to leave a comment enjoy browsing the site ad-free!

Create account

Create an account on our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top