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Aerie Ti Emira exhaust installation

I am considering going with Aerie exhaust (everything else stock, no Y pipe).
Questions:
1. Does anyone have a sound sample with this sample (stock vs upgrade). Does insulated Y pipe has a noticeable difference in performance/sound?
2. Earlier int he threat I saw that exhausts required Y pipe change, is that still the case with latest shipment or stock Y pipe is ok now (still needs a crush washer etc?)
3. With latest stock valve actuator adapter spring can someone confirm that recalibration is not needed and install works as a drop in replacement.

Thank you
 
To those who've replaced the factory exhaust with the Aerie, how do you get the factory exhaust loose? Lotus tack-welded the clamp onto the muffler so I can't remove it to spread the joints on the pipe to slide it off the cat. I've loosened the nut tightening the clamp, but of course I can't move the clamp. I've removed the bolts holding the muffler on the ends, but I can't move the muffler off the cat. I thought I'd be able to slide the muffler towards the back to clear the cat pipe, then back and down, but it looks like everything is just slightly in the way, which is typical of a British sports car. Nothing wants to cooperate.

Is there a trick to this that I'm not seeing? Any tips on how to remove and reinstall the @Aerie?
 
To those who've replaced the factory exhaust with the Aerie, how do you get the factory exhaust loose? Lotus tack-welded the clamp onto the muffler so I can't remove it to spread the joints on the pipe to slide it off the cat. I've loosened the nut tightening the clamp, but of course I can't move the clamp. I've removed the bolts holding the muffler on the ends, but I can't move the muffler off the cat. I thought I'd be able to slide the muffler towards the back to clear the cat pipe, then back and down, but it looks like everything is just slightly in the way, which is typical of a British sports car. Nothing wants to cooperate.

Is there a trick to this that I'm not seeing? Any tips on how to remove and reinstall the @Aerie?
Instruction send to you email, please check and let me know if you need anything assist.
 
Okay here's the problem right here, where it says "move clamp onto silencer assembly". The clamp on mine is situated so the bolt is on the bottom, and the top of the clamp is tack-welded to the pipe. I'm going to have to see if I can figure out a way to break that tack weld.

Screenshot 2024-08-24 at 2.19.13 PM.png
 
Okay here's the problem right here, where it says "move clamp onto silencer assembly". The clamp on mine is situated so the bolt is on the bottom, and the top of the clamp is tack-welded to the pipe. I'm going to have to see if I can figure out a way to break that tack weld.

View attachment 50379
Loosen the clamp. Detach cat from silencer. Wiggle cat into y pipe a little. Rotate it down into the area between the rear sway bar and whatever that bulkhead is. Then pull it free.
 
Loosen the clamp. Detach cat from silencer. Wiggle cat into y pipe a little. Rotate it down into the area between the rear sway bar and whatever that bulkhead is. Then pull it free.
Thank you for your information
 
I think that the geometry is slightly different - so the valve travel needs recalibrating. I could also hear chatter when the servo tried to close the valve (there is a lot of back pressure on it).

The OBD KILLER worked for me to eliminate the CEL and reduced redline. But the valve chatter still could be problematic over time.


My ideal setup would be Titanium y-pipe and Titanium valve-less and silencer-less straight exhaust 🙏 @Aerie
Hi, I´m having issues with the Exhast valve motor, it Melted!!, so I fixed the connector but I get P1018, do you think the OBD Killer will help with this, because I get Engine Power Reduced inmediatelly everytime I press the gas pedal.
I was thinking on buying the Milltek exhaust valve control just for the codes, but they told me that is not a warranty that code will dissapear if motor is broken.

Greetings.
 
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