Anybody that is on the fence, www.Milltekcorp.com in the us has a 15% sale….just ordered the valve controller
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Anybody that is on the fence, www.Milltekcorp.com in the us has a 15% sale….just ordered the valve controller
Which still needs calibration though, correct? Unless you just force it open the whole time.Anybody that is on the fence, www.Milltekcorp.com in the us has a 15% sale….just ordered the valve controller
CorrectWhich still needs calibration though, correct? Unless you just force it open the whole time.
I installed my Larini exhaust, refitted the valve controller, and no issues, no codes. I understood the recalibration May be needed on certain systems if the valve positioning does not match OEM, which would make sense. Many users fitted Mikltek valve controller w/o need to recalibrate.Correct
No calibration needed with the valve controller on its own.Which still needs calibration though, correct? Unless you just force it open the whole time.
That’s the way I understand it as well after communication with Milltek in the U.S.No calibration needed with the valve controller on its own.
It just interrupts the factory control to be open/closed or doesn’t interrupt and keeps the standard gradual-opening setup. That’s what the 3 buttons do.
You’d only need calibration if the valve itself is removed or replaced with something non-standard.
I might be being overly cautious here, but be aware that running the valve force closed using the Milltek controller could cause engine damage from excess back pressure.
I’d suggest mapping OEM and Open settings to your homelink buttons if you have it and then stash the milltek remote away somewhere so there’s no chance of accidentally driving with the valve closed.
Even in Tour mode the valve opens under engine load.
Yep my thoughts exactly. I read comments somewhere from people buying them with the intention of running forced closed at the track to keep under noise limits. Gonna see problems I think. Then of course they’ll take them off and claim warranty. Anyway I’m going off on a tangent here but I really don’t think having a force closed mode is a good idea.I had the same concern. The "closed" setting makes no sense to me. The valve flap controllers for the AMG world usually only have two settings: OEM or always open. There is no "closed" position because it would create too much back pressure at high RPMs and damage the engine. There's the possibility that the "closed" position was designed with aftermarket exhausts in mind, where even the closed position is higher flow than stock and thus avoids excessive back pressure. But this seems to be a blind folded dart throw because there is no way for a private owner to know if their new exhaust is safe to use with the "closed" setting.
Calibration? I thought the controller was just plug and play?Which still needs calibration though, correct? Unless you just force it open the whole time.
It is. Scroll up.Calibration? I thought the controller was just plug and play?
Update.
Diffuser removed.
Valve spring rotated. Did a couple of short runs - no CEL yet. Needs longer runs to be sure.
Noticed two problems on the Aerie exhaust. See pics below.
Top pic is the joint between the y-pipe and 3rd cat bypass tube. @Aerie - do I need a gasket between these flanges? If so, do you have a part number please?
Bottom pic is the joint between the bypass tube and muffler. Not sure how to fix this - @Aerie any ideas?
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Anyone installed this valve controller with the Aerie exhaust?Anybody that is on the fence, www.Milltekcorp.com in the us has a 15% sale….just ordered the valve controller