Aerie Ti Emira exhaust installation

I installed my Larini exhaust, refitted the valve controller, and no issues, no codes. I understood the recalibration May be needed on certain systems if the valve positioning does not match OEM, which would make sense. Many users fitted Mikltek valve controller w/o need to recalibrate.
 
Which still needs calibration though, correct? Unless you just force it open the whole time.
No calibration needed with the valve controller on its own.

It just interrupts the factory control to be open/closed or doesn’t interrupt and keeps the standard gradual-opening setup. That’s what the 3 buttons do.

You’d only need calibration if the valve itself is removed or replaced with something non-standard.
 
No calibration needed with the valve controller on its own.

It just interrupts the factory control to be open/closed or doesn’t interrupt and keeps the standard gradual-opening setup. That’s what the 3 buttons do.

You’d only need calibration if the valve itself is removed or replaced with something non-standard.
That’s the way I understand it as well after communication with Milltek in the U.S.

I’m waiting on the GRP Midpipe and then I will have the Milltek 3rd cat delete, Milltek exhaust, and valve controller (using OEM valve) installed.
 
I might be being overly cautious here, but be aware that running the valve force closed using the Milltek controller could cause engine damage from excess back pressure.

I’d suggest mapping OEM and Open settings to your homelink buttons if you have it and then stash the milltek remote away somewhere so there’s no chance of accidentally driving with the valve closed.

Even in Tour mode the valve opens under engine load.
 
I might be being overly cautious here, but be aware that running the valve force closed using the Milltek controller could cause engine damage from excess back pressure.

I’d suggest mapping OEM and Open settings to your homelink buttons if you have it and then stash the milltek remote away somewhere so there’s no chance of accidentally driving with the valve closed.

Even in Tour mode the valve opens under engine load.

I had the same concern. The "closed" setting makes no sense to me. The valve flap controllers for the AMG world usually only have two settings: OEM or always open. There is no "closed" position because it would create too much back pressure at high RPMs and damage the engine. There's the possibility that the "closed" position was designed with aftermarket exhausts in mind, where even the closed position is higher flow than stock and thus avoids excessive back pressure. But this seems to be a blind folded dart throw because there is no way for a private owner to know if their new exhaust is safe to use with the "closed" setting.
 
I had the same concern. The "closed" setting makes no sense to me. The valve flap controllers for the AMG world usually only have two settings: OEM or always open. There is no "closed" position because it would create too much back pressure at high RPMs and damage the engine. There's the possibility that the "closed" position was designed with aftermarket exhausts in mind, where even the closed position is higher flow than stock and thus avoids excessive back pressure. But this seems to be a blind folded dart throw because there is no way for a private owner to know if their new exhaust is safe to use with the "closed" setting.
Yep my thoughts exactly. I read comments somewhere from people buying them with the intention of running forced closed at the track to keep under noise limits. Gonna see problems I think. Then of course they’ll take them off and claim warranty. Anyway I’m going off on a tangent here but I really don’t think having a force closed mode is a good idea.
 


I'm sure that can clean the code when you change the O2 sensor with the P1081 DTC code showing up, but now the case is jump to is to P1018 so is getting confused.

If now showing the P1018 DTC code means the installation of the exhaust valve did not correct position, you have to try to reinstall as 1:1 same position as removed from the OEM, or run the Lotus diagnostic tool to program the valve to re-calibrate the position to perfect open and close.
 

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Update.

Diffuser removed.
Valve spring rotated. Did a couple of short runs - no CEL yet. Needs longer runs to be sure.

Noticed two problems on the Aerie exhaust. See pics below.

Top pic is the joint between the y-pipe and 3rd cat bypass tube. @Aerie - do I need a gasket between these flanges? If so, do you have a part number please?

Bottom pic is the joint between the bypass tube and muffler. Not sure how to fix this - @Aerie any ideas?


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Update.

Diffuser removed.
Valve spring rotated. Did a couple of short runs - no CEL yet. Needs longer runs to be sure.

Noticed two problems on the Aerie exhaust. See pics below.

Top pic is the joint between the y-pipe and 3rd cat bypass tube. @Aerie - do I need a gasket between these flanges? If so, do you have a part number please?

Bottom pic is the joint between the bypass tube and muffler. Not sure how to fix this - @Aerie any ideas?


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Mine has the exact same leaks too.

Can you post a photo of the exact orientation you have the spring in now?

I don't get a CEL with my spring rotated either, but it stops the valve from fully closing as the spring hits the housing as shown here. You'll notice there is no difference between sport and tour modes with the spring rotated if its the same as this orientation....
 

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Following along with this. Built a custom titanium system for a customer and nor CEL/ limp mode for the first week of driving, then the occasional limp mode. Customer took it to the Lotus dealer where they tried to recalibrate it and they actually made it worse where it stays in limp mode the whole time now. We used a Ticon valve and noticed it operates in the reverse direction as the actuator.
Does anybody know if a recalibration can reverse the way the actuator operates?
 

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Here is a pic of the valve and spring BEFORE I rotated it.

So far, so good. No CEL and it opens and closes correctly.
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I have ordered a couple of valve delete modules (see pic). Hopefully one will work.

Aerie is building me a titanium straight cat back. This will be the lightest configuration.

Does anyone know what exhaust gasket I need to stop the leak at the flange?


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